Won't Start When Hot And
- Thread starter 6870jason
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The ICM on our cars are mot as prone to failure as they were on the fox bodies 1993 and earlier.
My money would be on the pick up coil, but you should test first, when the problem occurs, so you dont just end up throwing money and parts at it.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/index_ford_4.9L_5.0L_5.8L/index_of_articles_1.php
My money would be on the pick up coil, but you should test first, when the problem occurs, so you dont just end up throwing money and parts at it.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/index_ford_4.9L_5.0L_5.8L/index_of_articles_1.php
jozsefsz
15 Year Member
I'd say change 'em both, mine eventually died under its own heat even though it's remote from the distributor. It's hard to reliably test either component, and in my experience when one goes, the other isn't far behind. Probably cheaper than a tow.
There could be other reasons it might not start when warm. One common one is if you have bigger injectors than stock and are using a matched MAF sensor and not a tune. This doesn't adjust for the amount of fuel the car gets when it's cranking (cranking pulsewidth), and so you get too much fuel when it's hot and it doesn't want to start until it cools off. I had this problem with 36lb. injectors, the bigger the injectors the bigger the problem. This might not apply to you, but there probably aren't that many SN95's left without at least some mods over the years.
There could be other reasons it might not start when warm. One common one is if you have bigger injectors than stock and are using a matched MAF sensor and not a tune. This doesn't adjust for the amount of fuel the car gets when it's cranking (cranking pulsewidth), and so you get too much fuel when it's hot and it doesn't want to start until it cools off. I had this problem with 36lb. injectors, the bigger the injectors the bigger the problem. This might not apply to you, but there probably aren't that many SN95's left without at least some mods over the years.
You should do a basic tune-up (plugs, wires, cap rotor, PCV, filters and clean the MAF). Next spend $22 on an OBDI code reader so you can see what trouble codes the ECU has logged. While you are waiting for the reader to arrive remove and clean the battery to engine and engine to chassis grounds. These maintenance things may well resolve the dying/stalling issue. In addition it gives you a baseline upon which reasonable diagnostics can begin.
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