so I fried the fusable link- dumb but glad it was there. I have replaced it and checked all fuses under the hood and dash. the abs light is on and the traction control light is on and wont go off by the switch. I think it may be relay related but don't know how to check? can a scan tool help? any thoughts?
Fried Fusable Link- Now Issues With Abs
- Thread starter gwilkrrs
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wmburns
SN Certified Technician
So HOW did you fry it? Reversed positive/negative?
I don't know the Model year of your Mustang, but in general there isn't a relay to the ABS system. For example in the 1999-2004 model year the power is controlled via fuse F2.29 in the Central Junction box (CJB). Fuse F2.29 is powered from the ignition switch.
So if you suspect a "relay" problem and you don't think the system has been damaged, then a new ignition switch would be in order.
Note, the ignition switch and the key cylinder are NOT the same thing. The electrical ignition switch is easy to replace and does NOT require PATS to be re-programmed or a new key.
If this were my car, I would confirm there is +12 volts into fuse F2.29 with the key on. If no voltage into F2.29, then the diagnosis is confirmed.
I don't know the Model year of your Mustang, but in general there isn't a relay to the ABS system. For example in the 1999-2004 model year the power is controlled via fuse F2.29 in the Central Junction box (CJB). Fuse F2.29 is powered from the ignition switch.
So if you suspect a "relay" problem and you don't think the system has been damaged, then a new ignition switch would be in order.
Note, the ignition switch and the key cylinder are NOT the same thing. The electrical ignition switch is easy to replace and does NOT require PATS to be re-programmed or a new key.
If this were my car, I would confirm there is +12 volts into fuse F2.29 with the key on. If no voltage into F2.29, then the diagnosis is confirmed.
Yep- battery switch - pulled old battery- started to rain so I tucked the terminal wires and thru the battery in the tray and lowered the hood- I heard sparking and saw the terminal wires had relaxed and touched ass backwards---- I pulled them off but too late------
Now the and light is on and the trac control light won't go off even when pushing the button..... Didn't know if a scan tool would tell me the problem- thanks for the input!
Car is a 2001 get with 90k
Now the and light is on and the trac control light won't go off even when pushing the button..... Didn't know if a scan tool would tell me the problem- thanks for the input!
Car is a 2001 get with 90k
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
If the only sub system affected is ABS, then it seems unlikely to me that the problem is ignition switch related. Why? Because there are other system driven from the same ignition switch "gang". A problem in the ignition switch would likely affect all sub systems sharing the same gang.
I'm afraid you may have fried the ABS module.
I'm afraid you may have fried the ABS module.
evolucion311
Member
- Mar 19, 2009
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Can you pull any ABS codes? Search my username on YouTube and you'll find a video I did on replacing the ABS module without having to replace the hydraulic unit or remove the brake lines.
As WMBurns said, verify power and electrical integrity and if your scan tool can't communicate with the ABS module then there's a good chance you fried it and it will have to be replaced.
I just got done replacing my PCM due to frying the old one when upgrading the alternator wire. I connected negative first and then positive. A nice spark erupted and I had a SES light for P1233 (FPDM). I performed the KB pinout tests which ruled out the FPDM as being bad and ended up with a bad PCM as the diagnosis.
When I put the new PCM in I neglected to make sure the three wiring harness connectors next to it were securely fastened. I got an ABS light and codes C1165 and P1451. I performed the F series pinout tests on the ABS system and found an open circuit where else but at the harness connectors by the PCM. I would recommend lightly zip tying them together if they have been taken apart a few times.
As WMBurns said, verify power and electrical integrity and if your scan tool can't communicate with the ABS module then there's a good chance you fried it and it will have to be replaced.
I just got done replacing my PCM due to frying the old one when upgrading the alternator wire. I connected negative first and then positive. A nice spark erupted and I had a SES light for P1233 (FPDM). I performed the KB pinout tests which ruled out the FPDM as being bad and ended up with a bad PCM as the diagnosis.
When I put the new PCM in I neglected to make sure the three wiring harness connectors next to it were securely fastened. I got an ABS light and codes C1165 and P1451. I performed the F series pinout tests on the ABS system and found an open circuit where else but at the harness connectors by the PCM. I would recommend lightly zip tying them together if they have been taken apart a few times.
