You first posted
"So the next place I am attacking is the motor. The goal is to restore the health for a factory fresh idle quality and throttle response. We're not looking to mod this car at all, and want to keep it as close to factory as possible."
Since you are new and are missing the point, just this time, I will try to be more clear than pleasant. - PLEASE JUST KEEP IT STOCK THEN! You do not need to make life complicated and mess up a stock car for no real gains.
Here are some details and good reasons why, besides federal emissions laws say do not remove smog parts-
If you are still not looking to modify the car, just put the long belt back on the pump and put new high flow cats on. Your problem should be fixed and look almost stock with a few more HP. I think the after market cats should free up more power than the air pump eats. Then you do not have to mess with the computer that Ford made work pretty darn well with the factory parts. If you are not planning on modifying the car a lot, if at all, there is no need to twerk with reprogramming the computer or replacing it. The computer tweaking needed to ditch the pump and use newer cats is a tremendous, tail chasing waste of time and money. What will you gain without a speed boat load of performance parts and a racing type set up? Neither the air pump nor the cats are eyesores as they are both tucked out of the way. Pypes brand cats are even stainless and I bet could be polished. It is not a big deal to fix the air pump codes your car is popping. The air pump system is simple to fix if it is all there. A catted H/X pipe (and cleaning the crossover tube if a code is still there, and then chasing cracked vac lines if that still does not do it) is a lot easier than rewiring for a Mega Squirt or a later stock style (but more powerful) computer and making it work with wide band O2 sensors. If you think it is truly easy to program one of these systems, you might have been born after the year 2000 with a computer in your hands. (Your poor Mama!) These systems can be learned, but it is not worth time just to a kill a couple of codes. And a little better gas mileage will never pay for the new computer system in an almost classic convert.
Listen to @jrichker. he will save you money and frustration just because he's a nice guy! I have printed and notebooked many of his help guides because they are better than any manual I can buy!!
Listen to @Gearbanger 101. When he reads the whole thing, he is right on too.
@89oem is looking out for you.
To paraphrase both Grandpas, If it isn't broke, DON'T fix it.
This can be the most helpful site you will find for Mustangs, but fools tend not to be harbored. (Search for missing lug nuts for a amazing read!) Do not be one of them.
I will try to be more concise and polite next time.
"So the next place I am attacking is the motor. The goal is to restore the health for a factory fresh idle quality and throttle response. We're not looking to mod this car at all, and want to keep it as close to factory as possible."
Since you are new and are missing the point, just this time, I will try to be more clear than pleasant. - PLEASE JUST KEEP IT STOCK THEN! You do not need to make life complicated and mess up a stock car for no real gains.
Here are some details and good reasons why, besides federal emissions laws say do not remove smog parts-
If you are still not looking to modify the car, just put the long belt back on the pump and put new high flow cats on. Your problem should be fixed and look almost stock with a few more HP. I think the after market cats should free up more power than the air pump eats. Then you do not have to mess with the computer that Ford made work pretty darn well with the factory parts. If you are not planning on modifying the car a lot, if at all, there is no need to twerk with reprogramming the computer or replacing it. The computer tweaking needed to ditch the pump and use newer cats is a tremendous, tail chasing waste of time and money. What will you gain without a speed boat load of performance parts and a racing type set up? Neither the air pump nor the cats are eyesores as they are both tucked out of the way. Pypes brand cats are even stainless and I bet could be polished. It is not a big deal to fix the air pump codes your car is popping. The air pump system is simple to fix if it is all there. A catted H/X pipe (and cleaning the crossover tube if a code is still there, and then chasing cracked vac lines if that still does not do it) is a lot easier than rewiring for a Mega Squirt or a later stock style (but more powerful) computer and making it work with wide band O2 sensors. If you think it is truly easy to program one of these systems, you might have been born after the year 2000 with a computer in your hands. (Your poor Mama!) These systems can be learned, but it is not worth time just to a kill a couple of codes. And a little better gas mileage will never pay for the new computer system in an almost classic convert.
Listen to @jrichker. he will save you money and frustration just because he's a nice guy! I have printed and notebooked many of his help guides because they are better than any manual I can buy!!
Listen to @Gearbanger 101. When he reads the whole thing, he is right on too.
@89oem is looking out for you.
To paraphrase both Grandpas, If it isn't broke, DON'T fix it.
This can be the most helpful site you will find for Mustangs, but fools tend not to be harbored. (Search for missing lug nuts for a amazing read!) Do not be one of them.
I will try to be more concise and polite next time.