Hooking Up On The Street...

I'd say you goto nitto drag radials and just be careful in the rain and do not run them too low on tread.

I also like putting the battery on the rear passenger side tire.

If you run the drag radials you won't have to comprise the rest of the car's setup. God forbid you have to make a panic maneuver without a sway bar with drag springs. Might as well be driving a boat.

I've run a drag setup on the street. It's terrible.
I consider the drag radials safer.
 
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Hmmm.... :chin

I'm thinking about what I might do if I were trying to pull the front wheels on the street without a bunch of weight reduction.

HPM Megabite if you don't care at all about ride
Megabite Jr lowers if you do (at least a little)
Stiff uppers with spherical bearings on one end and urethane on the other
Adjustable shocks
Sub-frame connectors
Street cage
coil spring air bag
4-cylinder springs or after market equiv
Panhard bar
Spool
solid motor mounts

and last but not least... a mini-tub with 15 inch wide tires. :)
Well....if you can't hook with 15" wide tires you must be on the tv show Street Outlaws. :O_o:
 
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Check out TeamZ Motorsports. You tube,or their website. If you want to really concentrate on straight line acceleration they have a lot of products/info available. But again which I know you're going to ignore-TIRES! Regular radials will not hook on the street if you're making any descent amount of power. No matter what you do with suspension.
 
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Brainstorm, not derail since conventional thinking has bet this horse to death. I have thought about putting spray nozzles in the rear wheel wells to spray sticky track stuff on or just ahead of the tires. Does anyone know if the track prep (VHT?) has to dry first?
 
Brainstorm, not derail since conventional thinking has bet this horse to death. I have thought about putting spray nozzles in the rear wheel wells to spray sticky track stuff on or just ahead of the tires. Does anyone know if the track prep (VHT?) has to dry first?
Nope. Spray and then heat em up! Don't want to admit this but used to do the "street r**e" scene back in the early 90's. We used to spray it on the road and pull in to heat the tires and go. Hope mods don't get mad.
 
No disrespect to others who have posted in here... but it's old school thinking to claim that car's can't hook on the street. Nowadays, street racing and no prep racing is very popular. One of my customers just won Mini Cash Days a couple weekends ago, beating some of the fastest street cars in the country. (and yes, he makes over 1000hp and wheelies on the street)

The proper setup is expensive and time consuming, but it's not too complicated.


Any benefits to be had by changing the squat/anti - squat by mounting the upper and lower control arms on the rear higher or lower. I can do this pretty easily.

What is the anti - squat value of the stock Fox?

IMO, people overthink this. My racers run the LCAs close to parallel to the ground and let the uppers go where they go. And they dead hook on the street. I have one customer who holds the 275 record with a 4.23 @ 172 with a 1.10 sixty foot time. No control arm relocation involved.
 
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No disrespect to others who have posted in here... but it's old school thinking to claim that car's can't hook on the street. Nowadays, street racing and no prep racing is very popular. One of my customers just won Mini Cash Days a couple weekends ago, beating some of the fastest street cars in the country. (and yes, he makes over 1000hp and wheelies on the street)

The proper setup is expensive and time consuming, but it's not too complicated.




IMO, people overthink this. My racers run the LCAs close to parallel to the ground and let the uppers go where they go. And they dead hook on the street. I have one customer who holds the 275 record with a 4.23 @ 172 with a 1.10 sixty foot time. No control arm relocation involved.
Sharad,I'm not saying that the proper suspension won't help. But he wants to run "regular" radial tires and "hook" on the street! If that can be done I haven't seen it. With tires and suspension...sure wheels up launches are possible on the street. But I call :bs: Without some descent TIRES & SUSPENSION.
 
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Sharad,I'm not saying that the proper suspension won't help. But he wants to run "regular" radial tires and "hook" on the street! If that can be done I haven't seen it. With tires and suspension...sure wheels up launches are possible on the street. But I call :bs: Without some descent TIRES & SUSPENSION.

With ya 100% brother. You MUST have GOOD tires & suspension to hook on the street.
 
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My buddy used to run a stock 88 lx with 3.73 and 26" mt slick, that would dead hook on the street. Only mods were no front sway bar and no quad shocks. The only way it is going to hook is with a decent tire. When mine was stock with a blower with street tires it would blow the tires off bad until 3rd then just haze them. Put some 275/50 bfg Dr on and it would barely haze in first. Point is tires are huge.

My car currently dead hooks then hazes the tire 60' out or so and cleans up. I am currently working on that issue. Full suspension front and back on 28x10.5.
 
Hmmm.... :chin

I'm thinking about what I might do if I were trying to pull the front wheels on the street without a bunch of weight reduction.

HPM Megabite if you don't care at all about ride
Megabite Jr lowers if you do (at least a little)
Stiff uppers with spherical bearings on one end and urethane on the other
Adjustable shocks
Sub-frame connectors
Street cage
coil spring air bag
4-cylinder springs or after market equiv
Panhard bar
Spool
solid motor mounts

and last but not least... a mini-tub with 15 inch wide tires. :)
Where are thses dinosoar hpm arms you speak of ? Beside under my car;):think:
 
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When i younger (like 20 years ago) i ran standard radials, i bought some southside bars. I can say for sure they worked.
Unfortunately they also helped tear my torque boxes off the car and cost me $1100 to fix.

Holy crap were they are poor design.
 
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IMO, people overthink this. My racers run the LCAs close to parallel to the ground and let the uppers go where they go. And they dead hook on the street. I have one customer who HAD the 275 record with a 4.23 @ 172 with a 1.10 sixty foot time. No control arm relocation involved.

to do it on a hard tire (non drag radial) your going to be be deep into the suspension with double adjustable shocks and all that to make it do what a good radial would do.

as for the 275 record... its 4.18 now held by marty stinnett
pearsons 4.23 stood for a long time though! and im not sure what Marty has under his car
 
When i younger (like 20 years ago) i ran standard radials, i bought some southside bars. I can say for sure they worked.
Unfortunately they also helped tear my torque boxes off the car and cost me $1100 to fix.

Holy crap were they are poor design.
yup dropping the lower bar down like they do makes the thing really hit the tire hard but it also throws the % of rise way up.
everyone i know who runs SS runs the lower bar flat and puts the upper where it needs to be to get the IC where they want it
 
When i younger (like 20 years ago) i ran standard radials, i bought some southside bars. I can say for sure they worked.
Unfortunately they also helped tear my torque boxes off the car and cost me $1100 to fix.

Holy crap were they are poor design.
I ran them too! With a completely stock suspension other than those and sfc I was cutting 1.80 60ft times on M&H bias ply dot tires(they were really a slick with 2 "rain" grooves in em). They did work pretty good though.
 
If i remember correctly my southsides had a solid bearing. Like one that one didn't allow any movement left or right, only up and down. Umm yeah, that's not a good plan on a street car. Any time (like bumps or corner) it put a ridiculous amount of stress on those boxes. Something had to give.
I was harder on the car back them and stick cornered it hard. Not good with those arms.
Literally a chassis shop cut my torque boxes out and made custom boxes.