Fox New Suspension Installation Advice

@cdurbin

I removed my front suspension this weekend and took pics. I prefer safety over winging it so take what you want from it and throw out the rest. Install is pretty much exactly opposite of removal.

Jack up one side and support car, remove wheel. Then remove caliper bolts and caliper and hang it out of the way. I used bungee cords
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Now unbolt tie rod and sway bar bolts
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Next I installed the Maximum Motorsports spring keeper tool, works great for removal and installation of the front springs.
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Now place floor jack under your lower ball joint if your brakes are removed, mine aren't so I put it under the rotor and jacked it up so there is only a little pressure on it.
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Then I did something other people may not do for added extra safety in case the spring shoots out. I wrap an 1,1oo lb rated chain with a bolt through it to catch the spring. My springs were still under pressure even after strut removal and still jumped out after prying it out. You can get the chain and bolt at Ace Hardware or other places.
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Then I removed the lower strut bolts and slowly lowered the floor jack down.
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Spring was still in the seat (held in with MM tool) but still had tension. I couldn't just grab the top and pull it out. So I used a pry bar and that thing jumped out, thankfully I had the chain on it. Some people say their spring just rolled out, mine never has so I do this.
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Then remove the top nut on your strut. I have KYB's so this is how it works for those.
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Maybe this is remedial for some, maybe not for others but I took pictures this weekend thinking maybe I'd do a write up on a safe way to remove/install the front springs. I've seen other people have their own ways and theirs is good too but I think mine is pretty straight forward and easy enough.

FWIW I have Eibach pro kit springs, UPR bump steer kit & J&M CC plates and KYB struts.

I meant to ask you how do you like your setup? Were you able to tell a difference in the ride and handling?
 
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Well, my back is good as new (almost) and I plan to try and tackle this project this coming weekend.
I've set aside the entire day from daylight till dark on Saturday. I've also got a buddy coming to assist so hopefully it will be fairly painless. I plan to measure the caster/camber and also the before and after wheel well heights. Being an engineering nerd, I created a couple of "cheat sheets" using online clipart and AutoCAD. :nice:
If there any other diagrams you guys can think of that I might need, please chime in.
Thanks again for all the advice. You guys rock:hail:
 

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If you replace the control arm rubber bushings, do not tighten the bolts on them until you have the car up on jackstands with the suspension loaded as if the car was sitting on the ground.

If you tighten the bolts with the suspension hanging down, it preloads the bushings with a twist when the car is set back on the ground.
 
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@cdurbin
This is how my car sits, haven't driven it ever. When I bought it I rolled it off a trailer into my garage and tore it apart. I got all the suspension done and now I'm smoothing the engine bay. Sorry I can't tell you how it rides till Spring of 2015 so I'm no help to you.
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@cdurbin
This is how my car sits, haven't driven it ever. When I bought it I rolled it off a trailer into my garage and tore it apart. I got all the suspension done and now I'm smoothing the engine bay. Sorry I can't tell you how it rides till Spring of 2015 so I'm no help to you.
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Gotcha. Unfortunately, mine is a DD for now. I looking around for a little beater pick up though.
I've had the car for a little over 2 years now. I've done a ton of work on it but nothing suspension related until now. It sits up too high for me and the ride is not that great either. It also has a slight vibration coming from the drivers front that I think is suspension related. I plan to check all of the ball joints and tie rod ends and such as well. I'm trying to get a feeling for what to expect I guess. I hate to get my hopes up and then be bummed. I suppose these are all things that need to be looked at anyway. Thanks again for the input.
 
Man I am worn out! This thing has been a PITA.
Everything came out without too much problem but I can't get the new springs to seat at all.
I've watched video after video and nothing has worked. I had to call it a night. I've been out there all day and didn't really get very far.
Any advice on the springs? They don't have enough flex to get them to seat if that makes sense. Do you insert the bottom first or the top?
I'm really frustrated
 
Man I am worn out! This thing has been a PITA.
Everything came out without too much problem but I can't get the new springs to seat at all.
I've watched video after video and nothing has worked. I had to call it a night. I've been out there all day and didn't really get very far.
Any advice on the springs? They don't have enough flex to get them to seat if that makes sense. Do you insert the bottom first or the top?
I'm really frustrated

If you have the MM spring install tool, it is a snap. Here is a quick video on how it's done




Or take the front springs to a shop that has a press and when they compress it, wrap the springs with some banding wire. They will slide right in and when you have everything buttoned up, cut the wire/
 
If you have the MM spring install tool, it is a snap. Here is a quick video on how it's done




Or take the front springs to a shop that has a press and when they compress it, wrap the springs with some banding wire. They will slide right in and when you have everything buttoned up, cut the wire/


Yeah, I bought the tool but it still doesn't want to go for some reason.
I watched the same video as well.
 
If you have the MM spring install tool, it is a snap. Here is a quick video on how it's done




Or take the front springs to a shop that has a press and when they compress it, wrap the springs with some banding wire. They will slide right in and when you have everything buttoned up, cut the wire/



I've got other problems to deal with too. The ball joint on the drivers side is toast so I plan to change it. I've never done that either. I'm going to borrow a press from Orielly's. I'm hoping it's not as much of a pain as the rest. It would help if I weren't getting old and have a bad back.
Depresses the hell out of me. I've always been a very active person.
 
I've got other problems to deal with too. The ball joint on the drivers side is toast so I plan to change it. I've never done that either. I'm going to borrow a press from Orielly's. I'm hoping it's not as much of a pain as the rest. It would help if I weren't getting old and have a bad back.
Depresses the hell out of me. I've always been a very active person.

Before you rent the tool, look at the balljoint to see if it has been replaced already- you can tell as it the replacements are slightly larger and are press fit and open up the hole in the A arm. You can only replace them once for this reason. If you still have the factory one, I would recommend getting the MOOG part. You can then rent the tool and press the old one out and the new one in. The biggest PITA is figuring out which spacers to use with the tool. Having an air gun makes the job much easier.
 
Before you rent the tool, look at the balljoint to see if it has been replaced already- you can tell as it the replacements are slightly larger and are press fit and open up the hole in the A arm. You can only replace them once for this reason. If you still have the factory one, I would recommend getting the MOOG part. You can then rent the tool and press the old one out and the new one in. The biggest PITA is figuring out which spacers to use with the tool. Having an air gun makes the job much easier.

Thanks. I do have an impact gun. Not sure, just looking at it, how you would be able to use a gun on the press though.
 
Hey guys.. quick update.
I was able to replace the ball joint without any issue last night. The old on pressed out fairly easy. The new one was a little bit tougher to press in but not too bad. I also figured out what I was doing wrong with installing the lowering spring and it went right in like cake. I don't know what my problem was on Saturday. At any rate, I got the drivers side all buttoned up and finished last night. I'm planning to get the other side tonight or tomorrow. Thanks again
 
I finished installing everything this afternoon and dropped the car off for an alignment.
Quick question though. The front definitely is lower but the rear looks like it's just as high as it was before I installed the lowering springs.
Do they have to settle or something? I sure hope so or I'm going to be all kinds of pissed off.
 
I've heard of this happening before with the Pro Kit. People have had to cut half a coil off to get the stance right while others had better results. Since I don't have my engine and transmission in my car right now I'm not sure if my rake is stink buggin' like yours is or not. I'm not afraid of the cut off wheel though.

For giggles you could put some sand bags in your trunk to expedite the settling of the springs.