Ford Z Heads And Long Tube Fitment.

[mr. pickles]

I have a Ford Crate Boss 363 in my 88 notch. I am currently running 1 5/8ths inch shorties with a catted X pipe.
My dyno tuner says I'm giving up 20-30rwhp because of that. Since my car is now out of the magic window where I have to pass a safety inspection in VA, I plan on going long tubes and an offroad pipe.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-chrome-longtube-134man-7993.html

I was looking at these. (but in ceramic coated) My current set up bolted up to a set of E-streets before I bolted them to what I have now. With Ford's Z heads the exhaust port is 5/8ths of an inch higher. Also, I have a T56 Magnum trans with a quicktime bell.

Any one have any ideas?

 

[elarm1]

Not sure about the fitment but I personally would skip the chrome and go with the ceramics. The chrome finish just does not hold up

 

[madspeed]

agreed fully

 

[mr. pickles]

I said that I was going with ceramic in my initial post.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

Sounds like you have a rare'ish setup. I'd suggest buying from a place that understands your dilemma and will accept exchanges/returns with no hassle.

 

[mr. pickles]

it's looking more that way. I might just keep the shorties, go catless mid and pill it for 150hp. hehe

 

[Gearbanger 101]

So what's an engine like that worth now a days. The "Z" heads really intrigue me. You don't really hear much about them, or many comparisons to other similar heads out there.

 

[mr. pickles]

I really can't say. I haven't ridden in too many mustangs honestly let alone ones with larger engines. I think people tend to stay with what's tried and true when it comes to long blocks. Two things intrigued me about the Boss crate motor.
1: they warranty it (even though that's null because it wasn't installed by a ford lincoln dealer and I sprayed it)
2: It's a fricken SBF 6 liter!

My motor didn't make a ton of power on the Dyno. I'm pretty close to 400/390ish rwhp/trq with my current set up (closer to 470/480 on 100 spray)

I've seen DSS/Dart combos make 50,60, or more hp over that. I'm still a roller cam though.

I bought the motor when it was on special. I went through my local speed shop and it was about $8200 for a long block. I've noticed they are now on sale slightly cheaper than that.

It's all forged on the inside, runs well, and to me, pulls really well down low and hits very hard up top. Though it would obviously hit harder with better breathing. I haven't sprayed it since the spring of this year because frankly, I don't need to on the street. It runs great and I drive it almost daily.

There was a guy on here, or maybe another site who made 450rwhp with his running the same thing I am running identically....only his exhaust is much more aggressive. I can't run his header set up because it's a race car. (think road course)

 

[mr. pickles]

I can say this...there was a guy on the dyno the same day who had a forged 306 with a Paxton running 7 or 8 psi and a 50 shot and he made 10 fewer hp than I did and 20 less trq than my car on just motor.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

Is the cam on the mild side? Sounds like a solid motor even if the dyno sheet doesn't shoot to the moon it's going to be more reliable than some random speed shop/garage built stroker.

 

[mr. pickles]

Cam is pretty mild. I saw a performance mag where they "built" the Boss crate motor with headwork and a solid roller cam. They raised the RPM to 7200 and made 571hp on an engine dyno.

 

[mr. pickles]

http://www.nmcadigital.com/2014/07/29/piecing-together-smallblock-ford-racings-363-short-block/


Here's one they built as a short block with trick flow high ports.