Lost Oil Pressure!
- Thread starter smkshw
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so am i,what a relief i have to say.....luckily i now know almost every nut and bolt on my car and it didnt take to long to pull...lol
Is it a high volume pump? I've never seen a street combo that needed an HV pump. Then again, I've not seen one harmed because of it (although internet stories abound).
Only downside that I'm aware of is more torque on pump shaft.
Only downside that I'm aware of is more torque on pump shaft.
im not sure if its a h/v,i brought most of the parts to him and the oil pump was somthing he put in,his build sheet was vague,ill have to see if it has a part num on it,but basically my question was pointing towards if i need a h/v pump?,is the melling a good choice?,seems to be?,i had 50psi before my issue,just want to make sure before i bolt it up
If you are running the stock pan, a HV can have interference issues with the pan. On a side note, a buddy of mine built a 347 years back. On crank up oil pressure was low and it was pouring smoke like a freight train. The machinist forgot to install the oil galley plug under the back of the intake, and the PVC valve was sucking straight oil. In the end, his main and rod bearing were fine. Even with the leak up top, they had enough oil down low to protect them.
Joe
Joe
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I warned everyone about this guy the first time I saw him here. Been dealing with his crap on the Corral for some time. He's about to get the hammer there as well.
I think the member issue has been dealt with. No need to keep pressing that front. I hate to see another thread locked because of him.
To the op what's your combo and what cam are you thinking of? If you're feeling froggy now is the time.
To the op what's your combo and what cam are you thinking of? If you're feeling froggy now is the time.
331 eagle stroker kit
afr 185s
comp xe274hr cam...555-565 lift
1.6 rockers
75mm throttle body
76mm mass air
rpm 2 upper lower
long tubes
10-1 comp
356rwhp-378rwtq
tuned
was thinking eventualy to drop compression and supercharge,was thinking a paxton,but im also wondering with a new cam and maybe 1.7 rockers if i can achive somthing close?and still have good street manners?,just a thought since its out?,i was going to start a thread and ask for some oppinions....
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ok, the hex on some of the aftermarket shafts are not long enough to allow some distributors to drop down far enough. if you find that your distributor needs to drop down around another 1/4 - 3/8" and you are certain that the distributor is engaged with the shaft, you can cut the required amount off the bottom of the distributor shaft.
i also suggest you make sure the shaft fits properly in the distributor and goes in without any force before you install the oil pump.
occasionally the shafts need light sanding. if they do not go in easily and you install the shaft without a retaining clip, then remove the distributor for some reason, there is a possibility that the shaft may fall into the pan before you get it out.
even if it stays in the distributor, you then have to try and get it back into the pump. this is not easy or fun, lol.
all high volume oil pumps that i am aware of have the letters "HV" at the end of the part number. this would show on the box it came in or the receipt.
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oh sorry,you asked what cam i was thinking of,no clue at the moment,for a off the shelf cam the xe274hr was what i picked,and whats in it now,its good,but now im wondering if there a better one for a stroker?,maybe try a custom cam?.....i was thinkng s/c eventually,but curious since its out,if a new cam is worth doing also?
Are you saying your current cam is the xe274hr?
if so, what do you like and not like about it?
if you don't know what your current cam is it would obviously be to your benefit to determine exactly or at least as closely as possible what it is so you know which direction to go and don’t simply install one that is identical. Obviously you can see if your builder knows.
You can also have it degreed for maybe $200.00 which is a chunk of change. You can also look at the back and post the info and it may be possible to decipher it but its pretty hard to do with some cams because few mfg’s put their name or grind number on it. Another way is to simply go by the max rpm your engine turns and the lift of the cam which can be determined by measuring the total height of the lobe from the bottom of the cam to the peak of the lobe, then measure from the bottom of the cam to the center of the cam and subtract this number from the first number then multiply the new number by the ratio of the rocker. It’s really easy to do.
I have run that particular cam and imo it is an xlnt cam for what imo is a strong [but not monsterous] 347 stroker running 3.50 gears or numerically higher. I think it is a bit big for a 302 unless someone wants more of a mid and top end engine. Imo, if you run it in a 331, you need at least 3.73 gears so it is not a slug off the line.
i also think a proper size head would be around 185 to optimize its potential.
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the answer is yes,thats my cam,its in the post....lol
thanks for the info but i know what cam i have,i peiced it together minus a few small things,just got the long block built by a shop.
the cam is fine actually,just exploring for more hp if possible n/a first before i put the engine back in,if not ill go with original plan and s/c,i guess a happy goal is around 500hp at the flywheel?,not sure if thats doable?
well it can be done and there’s a few ways to go about it. One is with good 185 heads and lots of compression which will require race gas. I would definitely go with a custom cam for this app no matter what. when your trying to get 325 hp from a 331 you can throw almost any cam in it and it will run good but to stretch that much hp out of a 331 and still have a decent power band it requires a custom cam because obviously it will designed specifically around all your specs.
The 282 cam below will be a noticeable increase over your current cam but won’t get you 500 hp imo. The other 2 should at least get you fairly close and should have at least 3.91 gears imo.
xfi248 for efi 304 314 248 258 608 114 3200 - 6500
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1069&sb=0
xe282hr for efi 282 290 232 240 565 574 112 2600 - 6500
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1058&sb=0
voodoo 20350713 for non efi 292 300 241 249 600 600 112 3000 – 7000
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1671&gid=289
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if you have large of springs, then installing smaller ones like 1.25” will get you some free rpm. Lighter retainers like titanium will do the same.
As you probably know, you need to make sure your springs are strong enough for the cam.
Most roller lifters have cast bodies and oem size .700” wheels. High spring pressures can cause these lifter bodies to break.
I would run a lifter with a larger roller and steel body with the two larger cams below. Morel makes some but they are $780.00.
Also, most street roller cams are designed for a .700” wheel. Using a larger wheel on a cam designed for a .700” one will increase the lift and duration, however, lots of people do it.
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if you have large of springs, then installing smaller ones like 1.25” will get you some free rpm. Lighter retainers like titanium will do the same.
As you probably know, you need to make sure your springs are strong enough for the cam.
Most roller lifters have cast bodies and oem size .700” wheels. High spring pressures can cause these lifter bodies to break.
I would run a lifter with a larger roller and steel body with the two larger cams below. Morel makes some but they are $780.00.
Also, most street roller cams are designed for a .700” wheel. Using a larger wheel on a cam designed for a .700” one will increase the lift and duration, however, lots of people do it.
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I personally don't see 500hp in a streetable EFI package with only 331ci and 185 heads being possible. There are members on here with built 331's put together by some of the best in the business and they aren't making anywhere close to that number. Heck....I'm sure I'm a good 125-150hp away from it myself.
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