Drivetrain Cant Shift

OK, so I burned the clutch a bit yesterday because some jackass cut me off, and Then I couldn't shift into any gear, as I was rolling. I had to force it pretty hard, but no grinding or anything like that, and it went into gear and as I was driving home it felt fine again.

This morning I cant shift into any gear from parked with the engine on.

The clutch feels the same, theres no resistance/whine/grind.

I dont think it's the TO bearing, its more like the clutch operates, but the disc is stuck to the flywheel.
 
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And I just got it to work again :/

I started it, then put the shifter up against 4th, where it was grinding, it wound down on grinding, and then it went into 4th, and every other gear. How utterly bizzare. Thank god I'm getting a fat bonus soon, so I can buy a new tranny
 
What shifter do you have? I'm not kidding this same thing happened to me once way back in the day. Car was stuck and would not move out of gear. The pile of :poo: B&M shifter had gotten stuck somehow and it took removing the shifter to unstick the trans. Put the stock shifter back in and everything shfited fine. Bought a tri-ax and never had an issue with that car ever again as far as shifting.
 
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That and a seized pilot bearing and grumbly TO bearing. I think it was the pilot that was causing the trand to not wind down until it was forced
 
Why does it look like you have a ring of new clutch material on that clutch!? Are you running an 11" clutch on a 10.5" flywheel somehow? I have never seen that before and I would think that the new material could be binding on the inside of the flywheel as well. This would lead me to believe the failure of the TO bearing is related as well as the pilot bearing as uneven wear of the new material would cause lateral pressure on the input shaft and the binding would cause increased pressure on the TO bearing.

Just my opinion, but that doesn't look right. :)
 
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Try to put an 11" pressure plate on a 10.5" flywheel and it'll interfere with the alingment dowels so that would not be the case. Probably just an old, jacked up clutch assy. Car probably feels like a brand new car with a clutch that functions.
 
I went from a King Cobra to an Exedy Mach 400 "stage 2" and my clutch pedal feel got lighter. FYI, "stage" has 0 to do with clutch pedal feel. "Stage" is just a way for advertisers to make it simple for the general public. If you go on manufacturer's websites its best to do that and look up torque rating. As far as the pedal feel, your clutch should be relatively easy to push to the floor with one hand. If it's not, get a clutch that does not suck. The McCleod twin disc RXT is good for 1000+ and has a stock pedal feel, just as an extreme example. My Exedy is rated for 500ft lbs.
 
If you are going to get a single disc clutch, you want something made by Luk, Valeo or Exedy. These are the manufacturers that supply most "OEM" clutches. The Terminator clutch is literally just a basic organic single disc Valeo 11" clutch. Which is what my Exedy is honestly. Any more than that, get a dual disc unit like the 2010+ GT500 clutch or the McCleod.