How Does My T5 Look? ??

trng2build1

New Member
Oct 31, 2005
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I'm going to be rebuilding my t5. I'm just wondering for the people who have done this before, how does everything look inside as far as my gears and things go? This will be my first t5 rebuild! I have removed trans myself and taken the tail housing off, along with the top plate. I ordered a rebuild kit that should be here next week. Just want the guru's opinion on what I need to replace.
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Also what's the best way to clean out the trans case? I'm leaving the counter shaft installed, don't have a press. How can I clean out the outside and inside so when i put it back together everything is clean?
 
Need closer pics of the dog teeth that engage the sliders. That's what you really want to inspect.

They need to be sharp and not rounded over. You also need to inspect the sliders teeth that engage them. If these are rounded over, you run the risk of the gears grinding when you try to engage.

These are new gears when i rebuilt the T-5 in my car. Notice how sharp they are. The teeth on the gears need to be sharp, as well as on the blocker rings (the dark black rings in the pic) and the engagement points inside the sliders. Also, the straight cut teeth on the 1-2 slider should not be rounded over or engaging reverse may grind all the time.
pic.php?u=11130S5RAi&i=540672


A closer look at brand new 3rd gear and the 3-4 slider and input shaft
pic.php?u=11130S5RAi&i=540675


Also, you'll want to look at the tip of the mainshaft where the 15 roller bearings from the input shaft sits. This needs to be free of galling, or your transmission will whine like my ex girlfriend.


Overview pic. All brand new gears.
pic.php?u=11130S5RAi&i=540668
 
Did you buy the kit with synchros? Once you get it apart, you can inspect the lining on the blocker rings. They're not cheap, but I just rebuilt my first t5 and I replaced all of them. I figure they cost around $160, but may as well replace them while it's apart. I have 2 more t5's waiting for a rebuild. Those will get new ones, as well.

I also read where the brass 5th gear synchro ring (that engages the brass) needs to be roughed-up with some emory cloth, if you're not replacing it with new parts. That way, the brass blocker ring will grab better. Not sure if this is true, but it makes sense. I wasn't having any problems shifting into 5th and my ring was shiny.
 
I have the main cluster all taken apart right now. I know that some of the bearings in the kit are for the counter shaft. I don't have a press so I don't think I'll be taking that out. I can pay pics of anything you guys want me to if you wanna see it and gives your opinion
 
I did a t5 swap in my car. I i adjusted the clutch to where it felt good on the pedal. Couldn't get the car in gear. Had to turn the firewall adjuster more to get it to shift. Made the clutch engage high on pedal travel. Also kind of grinding noise in reverse while backing up. Just figured that i got the whole swap for 400 bucks. So it needing a rebuild isn't a big deal. Just have to take my clutch and flywheel off though to clean it.
 
I did a t5 swap in my car. I i adjusted the clutch to where it felt good on the pedal. Couldn't get the car in gear. Had to turn the firewall adjuster more to get it to shift. Made the clutch engage high on pedal travel. Also kind of grinding noise in reverse while backing up. Just figured that i got the whole swap for 400 bucks. So it needing a rebuild isn't a big deal. Just have to take my clutch and flywheel off though to clean it.
Ok. Just check all of the gears for obvious wear. The rebuild wasn't too bad, but take your time. I'm going to build me a little rack to slide my parts onto as I'm taking it apart. It's hard to keep track of everything and I ended up having to take mine back apart a couple times. Good luck!
 
When i did the swap, my buddy thought it would be a good idea to put bearing grease behind pilot bearing. Well the :poo: is everywhere. Also i think that the rear main seal is leaking. I replaced it when i did the swap, but I'm pretty sure it's leaking.

I just got done with a head gasket job the other day (found 2 bolt heads broken in the drivers side valve cover) no wonder it was pushing coolant out of the overflow bottle. Got everything put back together. After this, i should be able to finally drive the car again
 
Thanks man. I'm very meticulous about my car and things like this. So hopefully i put all the pieces back on the way they came off. With nothing backwards or anything. The kit comes with a pic of how it goes together so that should help me with direction of dog teeth and whatnot.
 
This isn't chewed-up, it's ruined, and I wouldn't want anyone to take away from this thread that if the slider isn't as bad as this one, it's good to re-use. I'd like closer pictures of the OP's slider, but it looks like his teeth have seen way better days, and for the $50 or so it costs to get a brand new one, there's no sense in re-using a worn one.

And for the record, here's a chewed-up 1-2 slider:
View attachment 111405
 
I seriously doubt anyone would think that, but yes... you are correct. This pic is an extreme example. However, the reverse teeth on the slider is probably going to show some wear on any used t5, since there is no synchro for it. Slight wear is normal, but doesn't hurt to replace it, since they are not too expensive.
 
Thanks man. I'm very meticulous about my car and things like this. So hopefully i put all the pieces back on the way they came off. With nothing backwards or anything. The kit comes with a pic of how it goes together so that should help me with direction of dog teeth and whatnot.
See http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/onlineorder/product.asp to download a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550/TKO
You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://get.adobe.com/reader/


http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/ also has a video on how to rebuild your T5 or Tremec. It costs about $20, and is worth every penny of it.