Fox Lets Talk K-member

[89oem]

Been a while, Ive decided to go Coyote, and debating k-member, my builder is leaning towards UPR and I know its a fine product. Others say there is allot of flex for "spirited" DD. So option two is MM.

Can anyone with street and rally experience provide their experience? Thanks,

 

[Noobz347]

You're going to do a Coyote swap?

This should be cool.

 

[A5literMan]

I have no experience with either k member. My opinion though is to go with the MM piece. I have heard nothing bad about their products but have heard a few about UPR. That's what I would do imho. Also if at all possible I would love to see a progress build thread on a coyote swap

 

[89oem]

Yep Coyote,

Ya MM sounds most logical.... it adds up though a arms, coilovers and tierods, cc plates to make it work....

I have a well respected shop that does allot of modular swaps and did one of the early coyotes, so Im psyched and not crazy enough to try on my own

I'll be happy to post pics etc...

 

[2000xp8]

Swaps in general are costly.
Going straight to the good stuff saves money on the back end, trust me.

Just get the MM.
MM swap K's weren't out when i started my swap, wish they were, spending another $500-$750 would have save me a ton of headaches.

 

[89oem]

Swaps in general are costly.
Going straight to the good stuff saves money on the back end, trust me.

Just get the MM.
MM swap K's weren't out when i started my swap, wish they were, spending another $500-$750 would have save me a ton of headaches.

Can you expand? Was it the install or the overall product once in and in use?
I think your Modular Cobra would be real close to the coyote in this area....
Thanks!

 

[2000xp8]

I used an aje k member. That was one of the few out there years ago. Fitment was poor so was customer service and there is absolutely no way in hell it's as strong as the stock k member. None are other than the MM and griggs.

You are already spending a ton of cash i'm sure, especially if you are paying someone to do the work. An extra $500-$800 in the big scheme of things isn't going to change much.

 

[89oem]

Point made appreciate the frankness, decision made.

MM has to be the answer.... Thanks!

 

[Mustang5L5]

MM is what I'd go with.

 

[pearlnotchback]

Im running a UPR and have been for years. Ive never had any problems

 

[Boosted92LX]

I've seen a lot of debate on this subject over the years. It seems MM offers the ability to adjust centerline of the front wheel greatly improving handling in the corners, whereas last I heard the upr unit is/was non adjustable and is/was solely designed for straight line use. In fact several members in the past attested to damage, ie cracked weld on upr k members after subjecting them to hard cornering. Has this problem been addressed? I don't know, maybe someone else can chime in..

 

[90lxcoupe]

Having seen UPR, Team Z and Racecraft K-members with my own eyes, I would pick the racecraft for a street strip car every time.

Considering it sounds like you are going to be using this for more than just putting around on the street and the occasional 1320 blast, i would say go with the maximum motorsport one. Their stuff is excellent and i think being a road race company means the thing will stand up to just about any kind of abuse you are going to throw at it within reason.

You did say rally though, not sure what your actual plan is but i wouldnt expect anything to hold up to that kind of abuse forever.

 

[mikestang63]

People always have the money to do it right the 2nd time. As others have said, get the MM piece and be happy.

 

[TOOLOW91]

I will play the devils advocate . I have done a swap for someone the car is on the road about a year this month . we used and Aje k member and control arms . no issue besides the control arms needed ball joints and the wholes being oblong and and AJE warranted them for nothing . Mind you the k member is now 2 years old or so . it lived originally housing a BBC we did in the car . Just my .02 cents

With the Chevy for reference .

 

[RacEoHolic330]

If you go the MM route, there are vendors on Corral.net that will get you a nice discount compared to going through MM's site. Basically winds up being free shipping. On a k-member, that is a significant savings though. I bought all my MM stuff through vendors over there. Saved me hundreds.

 

[GroverDill]

Had an early D&D K JUNK

Now MM and only MM on my car.

 

[Sharad]

Been a while, Ive decided to go Coyote, and debating k-member, my builder is leaning towards UPR and I know its a fine product. Others say there is allot of flex for "spirited" DD. So option two is MM.

Can anyone with street and rally experience provide their experience? Thanks,

There is no flex in a UPR k-member for "spirited DD." I drove my Fox on the street with 1000+ hp and a bolt in UPR k-member. No problems.

Keep in mind that while MM makes a nice k-member, it is heavier, and will also push your wheels forward in the fenders. Some people dislike the tire clearance issues.

 

[GroverDill]

MM has A arms that keep them in the stock location now.

Lets not forget there is improved handling to be had by moving the wheels forward, its not like they did it for no reason.

 

[89oem]

I talked to MM the reverse offset A arm keeps wheels in stock posn, or I can go 3/4 or 1.5 forward with the a arm options they have on the shelf, while I have respect for the UPR line I keep hearing the same caveat UPR is nice especially for 1320 but hard driving Ie road course MM is much better. Not saying Im building a rally car but thats more my style..... I was able to talking with a few folks that have done the swap MM requires no shims for driveshaft alignment big plus to me....... I think with a vert and the advice yall and others have given "I'll do it right the first time and be happy"

 

[89oem]

Im thinking reverse offset @RacEoHolic330, @GroverDill, what a arm option did you choose? what wheel size you running up front?