The pedal does sit maybe a 1/2" higher than it did but not much. Now that I have gotten out an driven it, its gotten me to where I enjoy driving it again. The pedal has the proper amount of resistance now to engage the brake light switch and keep them on even with the slightest pressure applied to the pedal. There wasnt anything wrong with the master that was in there other than maybe it hadnt been properly bench bled. The new one I just put in, I bled the S***out of it on the vise. It took awhile to get all the bubbles out but I made sure this time that there wasnt one bit of air in that master before I put it on. Once I had the master installed is when I determined the booster was bad.......doh!.....lol. I was NOT gonna break loose those lines again and have to rebleed everything cuz I had already done all the too....haha. I just took loose the bolt that holds the bracket for the prop. valve and took the master and wire tied it to the suction line for the a/c at the compressor. Pulled the wiper motor and the booster came right out. I would say the worst part of the whole job was putting the brake light switch back on the brake pedal/booster rod. Also, have a couple long extentions extentions and a swivel adapter handy to take out the booster bolts under the dash on the firewall. There's no need to remove the master entirely.