High Amp Alternator Onto 92 5.0 Ho?

KyleEBK

KyleEBK

Member
Jan 27, 2008
173
5
19
#1
I have done the 3g conversion on my 92 5.0 engine, alt is putting out 130 amps at max ( I believe, never tested this) I need more,

I see that there are 200 amp alts available that are 3g,

I need more then 200 amps, the more the better, has anyone installed a high output alternator in their mustang?

Is there any other style besides 3g that i can put in there?

The car amplifier I have here uses up to 490 amps at max consumption. I also have another amplifier that uses up to 60 amps

Id like to avoid running more then 1 alternator
 

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#2
@KyleEBK

Are you sure you aren't confusing amps with watts? There is a vast difference.
60 watt audio will deafen you at full volume. Unless you wish to simulate an earthquake at full volume, why do you need all that power?
 
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#4
I am setting up a spl competition vehicle to compete in dbdrag bassrace (you can run your car and even rev to 2000 rpms for this class)
I have an infinity 75 watts x4 rms
and an Atomic 5000.1 d that i will be running at 1 ohm (stable at .5 ohm but 1 ohm is my target) its puts out over 5000 watts rms at 1 ohm but need the electrical to back it up.

in 2006 i ran 2 2250 watt amps in a ford escort with stock alt and 2 batteries only the more amps out of an alt though the more power out of the amps

as far as simulating an earthquake its more on par with simulating a rocketship launch to outer space. lol
 
#5
200A is the most I've seen for ford last without going and having a custom alt built. For most street car, non stereo applications, 130a is adequate.

If you really need more the 200A I doubt you'll find that sitting on a shelf. Need to look into a custom alternator
 
#6
I did the math and you really do need 450 amps to get 5000 watts if you have 80% efficiency.

However, in order to get 5000 watts across 1.0 Ohm resistance, you need 70.71 volts at 70.71 amps. There must be something going inside automotive amplifiers that differs from ordinary class B push-pull amplifiers. It would need to be a voltage boosting circuit to get that 70.71 volts at 70.71 amps. How about clueing me in on how that all happens?
 
#7
KyleEBK said:
I am setting up a spl competition vehicle to compete in dbdrag bassrace (you can run your car and even rev to 2000 rpms for this class)
I have an infinity 75 watts x4 rms
and an Atomic 5000.1 d that i will be running at 1 ohm (stable at .5 ohm but 1 ohm is my target) its puts out over 5000 watts rms at 1 ohm but need the electrical to back it up.

in 2006 i ran 2 2250 watt amps in a ford escort with stock alt and 2 batteries only the more amps out of an alt though the more power out of the amps as far as simulating an earthquake its more on par with simulating a rocketship launch to outer space. lol
Click to expand...
Good amp for sure! The only problem you have is that 1.) You can only rev to 2000rpm, while most 3G alternators put out alot more than rated at say 4500rpm. 2.) You don't need a serious "big" alternator. Maybe if it's a strictly demo car/truck/hearse(lol).
Problem is all the BIG(High amperage) alternators have to be revved pretty good. They put out a higher amperage at more rpm, so much that they don't put out crud at idle. Not so good for a street car.
Just run alternator (200A) to the battery under the hood. Then add two batteries to the trunk. The "system" will have to drain two batteries before you get voltage drop. Normally you're not going to run the system that long at full tilt. The little alternator will replenish the other batteries while the system is running under normal operation.
With all that mechman makes an alternator for a 87-95 mustangs it's 240A for $349. 140+ amps at idle, with 240+ amps at cruising speed.
 
#8
Its a class d mono block amplifier that is approximately 86% efficient

I found a alternator on ebay that does 135 amps at idle and 270 amps at 3200 rpms it is a 3g 1 wire alternator???? I have no idea what that means

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MUSTAN...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e93ed370e&vxp=mtr

currently in the car i have a 130 amp alternator from autozone for a 95 mustang that i purchased an upgrade kit that had a wire harness and other stuff to hook up properly

What would i have to do to get this sucker to work in there?
 
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#9
Only things you might have to worry about is a slightly larger case, upgrading the main power wire, & either tapping the top mounting hole or just using a nut and bolt to mount it. Pretty simple stuff.
 
#12
Thanks for the clue you provided - class d amplifier. It seems that class d amplifiers have a switch mode power supply in them. It increases the voltage supplied to the amplifier circuit to more than the 14 volts provided by the car's electrical system.. That makes it possible to push 5000 watts power through a 1 ohm load.

I (current) = watts ÷ voltage 4999.9041 watts ÷ 14 volts =357 amps ÷ .86 (86% efficiency) = 415 amps input current.

Power (watts) = voltage x current. 70.71 volts x 70.71 amps = 4999.9041 watts
 
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#14
Hmmm on the site it does give rms wattage at .5 ohms and i have also heard of many people running those amps at a half an ohm for daily use without issues if electrical is up to par and down to less then .25 ohms for burping, I ordered a stinger voltage meter to install with the setup so i can make sure my voltage is not dropping to dangerous levels

I have not picked out subwoofers for the setup yet so i may run it at .5 ohms for daily or possibly .7 ohms, the class of competition I have competed in (back in 2006 was state champion for the class,havent competed since) there is no burping it is a 30 second decibel average on music.(dbdrag bassrace)

jrichker is obviously some type of genius I have used his guides to solve issues with my mustang in the past, could you calculate roughly how many watts i would be getting at .5 0hms 13.5 volts with this amplifier or is there to many values missing to find that out?

a few pictures for you fellas Picture 15.jpg
atomic5k.jpg
 
#15
No genius, just Google...

Back about 37 years ago when I was in electronics class in college, I had all the formulas memorized. Now I simply use Google to find the online calculators to do it for me.

See http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-volt-amp-calculator.htm
OR
http://www.crownaudio.com/ohms-law.htm

After looking at the formula results I realized that there was no way to get that kind of power output with just 14 volts. So I wen Googling some more on the class D amplifier design. I figured out that the amplifier has a voltage booster power supply that increases the voltage inside the amplifier to a lot more that 14 volts . It operates like gears in a car: change the ratio between input and output and you get an increase in speed or and increase in torque, but never both. In this case, voltage = speed and torque = amps
 
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#17
most likely an atomic apocalypse x 18 inch dual 1 ohm coil, just talked to randy at atomic and the price is pretty damn good for what it is there not making the apxx anymore , plus thats the new models for next year that are more efficient and better cooling, also asked him about running the old style 5000.1 d at .5 ohm he says yea no problem just watch the volts it will be very similar to this setup on youtube


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WyNYJFc6PEs


lil headliner flex at the end
 
#18
That sounds and looks pretty good. Your setup will be nice for sure. I'd love to see your box/port(s) design when you get it all squared away. I'm assuming you will be tuning the box as you build? I'm just going to be running 1 sq2200 for now. I'm looking at DC, SQ, Tantric, and Sundown for subs...
 
#19
since its goin in the mustang and them 18s need big boxes im not sure what will be done yet, i may lose 1 seat in the back and mount it inverted right behind the driver seat and the port in the hatch area. going to look at options to keep it in the hatch but prolly not gonna happen even if i wall it at the back seats.
 
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