High Amp Alternator Onto 92 5.0 Ho?

for sure let me know I havent done any measuring there, but I want to maximize the subwoofer with a large ported box maybe tuned around 35 hz so the bigger the better but i dont want to lose things like rear visibility but i will get rid of 1 of the seats in the back because its rare that i have more then 2 people in the car but i dont want to lose both back seats
 
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I took my measurements with the intentions of not losing all of my rear windshield visibility. That said I did not actually sit in the driver seat and have someone measure how high I could see, I just estimated for the most part. I took the dimensions once with the seats up and then again with seats down. I will give you my measurements but for the one seat down it will be more of a guesstimate. When I took my measurements I did it using three different thicknesses of MDF just for kicks. Although I probably wouldn't use the 2" MDF, I would suggest a baffle and some bracing using 3/4" MDF. Don't forget to count for the space the bracing will take up inside the box. I'm sure you know all this, just figured I'd throw it out there. P.S. This is based off a wedge shaped box. Height 1 is the back of the box closer to the driver and height 2 is the front, closer to the rear of the car.

Seats Up:
Depth = 29", Width = 36", Height 1 = 17", Height 2 = 10"
3/4" Thick = 6.58 cu. ft.
1" Thick = 6.10 cu. ft.
2" Thick = 4.39 cu. ft.
One Seat Down: Guesstimating Area
3/4" T = 9.74 cu. ft.
1" T = 9.15 cu. ft.
2" T = 6.50 cu. ft.

Just incase you're interested. These are the specs for the seats down :D.
Seats Down: D = 48", W = 36", H1 = 21", H2 = 10"
3/4" T = 12.99 cu. ft.
1" T = 12.21 cu. ft.
2" T = 9.37 cu. ft.
 
eh i think rear visibility is overrated just go with a camera for the rear lol, im pretty sure im gonna go 1 seat down and hopefully 20 inches wide 30 inches deep and whatever high i can go, i may mount the sub inverted behind the driver seat so i can get more internal box volume all depends on how deep the subwoofer is i guess but now im thinking maybe i should try to find a DUAL ALTERNATOR BRACKET, anyone ever use one or see one for a 5.0 mustang? i could run dual alts and have the 2nd one the highoutput and only run the amp off it could even go for 16 volts out of it and get even more output from the amp

first i gotta cut this stupid 4 pt roll cage out, prolly use a sawzall huh?
 
didnt think there was that much room in the hatch i also gotta find out where to mount this amplifier too

wonder if its possible to get a 5+ cubic foot box with a 18 inch sub in the hatch area of the foxbody, hmmm
 
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Yea, you could use a camera for the rear. Not to many people on here will be of much help on the dual alternator bracket. If you have a facebook, find a local car audio page and ask on there. I get alot of help from the Georgia Car Audio Group.
5+ cu. ft. no problem. You're probably going to want something closer to 8 cu. ft. for the 18". If I was going to use my whole hatch area, I would do a 15" in 4th order. Either a DC lvl5 or a SQ HDC4 .
 
eh im just looking to do a slot port prolly i know a guy that used to compete in db drag, even world finals, he is now the local db drag certified judge and make speaker boxes with a cnc machine with bracing ect, all the good stuff, ill have to see what he thinks but yea id like to go as big as possible but i need room for 2 batteries back there and a 25 inch long amplifier and another 18 inch long amplifier


as far as subwoofers i already got the apx 18 picked out i can get a great price on them and they are ridiculous and can be customized to order, powder painted, 3 or 4 inch coil, custom impedance, whatever ya need
 
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I really dont think theres no way to get a high powered 18 in just the hatch although i wish i could. shallow boxes are never a good thing especially for big subs.
 
With those dimensions I gave you there should be enough room to fit two batteries in the back. One on each side of the box. I haven't thought about the amp placement. I wonder what it would take to make a amp rack that is attached to the hatch.
 
more headache then its worth with all the wiring running there i think, i wonder if could put the batteries in the spare tire area if taking out the spare tire
 
already got quotes from singer ,mechman,excessive amperage,dc power, and ohio generator all good prices the dc power is a little high, with ohio generator being a great price for the 300 amper (competitor pricing) its a toss up between excessive amperage and ohio generator i think

I want to find out what engine rpm equals alternator pulley rpm, to help figure out the output at idle on the ohio generator im seeing values around 225 amps at 3k alternator rpm and 290 amps at 4k alternator rpms and over 300 amps at 5k alternator rpms
 
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singer dont do a hair pin for 3g yet hes 8-10 months away from it

Mechman makes a hairpin 320amp thinkin bout goin with that price is decent too only like 60 bucks more then 300 amp conventional
 
So here is an obvious question; why a competition level stereo in a Mustang? Is there a class or size bonus? Since you do not want a two seater, a Crown Vic or an SUV would make this easier and still allow passengers.

The box measurements were pretty cool to do.
 
Just happens to be what I have and Ive been wanting to do a loud stereo in it since I sold my loud one I had in my 96 ford escort to buy this mustang 6 or 7 years ago

Its a hatchback so thats also a plus
 
I was thinkin of a box like this all the way to the roof of the car, not sure which would be better the 1st design or 2nd, im guessing the first? not sure
speakerbox.jpg
 

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