Hey, I recently changed my doors weatherstripping, and both door won't close all the way unless slammed really hard. So I changed the door strikers to see if that would help and still wouldn't close. So then decided to change the door hinges, as the door was very wobbly and thought that would for sure fix it, but nope still wont close properly, and still requires being slammed hard to close all the way. If anyone has any ideas what else I could try that would be appreciated. thanks
Door Still Won't Close Properly
- Thread starter FoxfiveO
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
post a picture, Did you adjust the strikers properly? Did you also replace or add the plastic striker bushing. When you say door hinges, I assume you mean the pins and bushings and not the actual hinges themselves?
The striker bolt has a T-50 Torx head bolt that is the same size as the front caliper bolts. Loosen the bolt and you can raise, lower or move the striker bolt back and forth to get the adjustment correct. When it is right, the gap in the door to body will be equal all the way around when the door is closed.
Micheal Nadeau
Active Member
vrm71
5 Year Member
Sorry to bring back an old post, but was has anyone got a solution to this? I am having the same issue and am reluctant to replace the other side, most of these restoration parts I have ordered from LMR Including these weatherstrips have not fit very well at all.
vrm71
5 Year Member
Adjusting the striker did not help, the door will latch but sticks out, likeoke the weatherstrip is too thick or something.
The seals take some time to compress down. I replaced mine last winter an had the same issues, but now I can close door normally without extra force.
Is the plastic striker bushing present on the striker? Over time they crack and fall out without being noticed. If you need a new one, your local parts store carries them in the HELP! Section (dorman 38448)
You can loosen them and adjust them in. You will need to slam the door shut, but after a week or so it should start to get easier and after a few months should be somewhat normal effort.
All the LRS seals fit tight when first installed, but as they get some time to be squeezed in place, the fit gets better. I've done my door, hatch and run channel seals. Months later they fit better
Is the plastic striker bushing present on the striker? Over time they crack and fall out without being noticed. If you need a new one, your local parts store carries them in the HELP! Section (dorman 38448)
You can loosen them and adjust them in. You will need to slam the door shut, but after a week or so it should start to get easier and after a few months should be somewhat normal effort.
All the LRS seals fit tight when first installed, but as they get some time to be squeezed in place, the fit gets better. I've done my door, hatch and run channel seals. Months later they fit better
vrm71
5 Year Member
Yeah, have to slam the door to get it flush, I did the hatch too and that is fine, the cowl weatherstrip was so stiff it actually bulged the hood up and popped off both end clips on the weatherstrip. The door weatherstrip has been on for 3-4 weeks with no signs of getting better.
I never had any luck with their weatherstrip. I had the same issue you are having and ended up putting on some used weatherstrip because I couldn't stand slamming my door every time. I dealt with the door slam for a couple of mo ths. It did not compress or get any better.
vrm71
5 Year Member
Yeah, well going to have to deal with it until i can find a good used one and steer clear of these LMR expensive junk products they present as "oem reproductions".
Is the stripping fully seated?
I'd have to agree about these reproduction products. They just never seem to fit well. I guess I lucked out with mine, but there have been a number of "oem reproduction" parts I eventually chucked in the trash in favor of a NOS or good used part
I'd have to agree about these reproduction products. They just never seem to fit well. I guess I lucked out with mine, but there have been a number of "oem reproduction" parts I eventually chucked in the trash in favor of a NOS or good used part
vrm71
5 Year Member
yes it is fully seated. I am just chalking it up to a junk reproduction parts not designed correctly or designed to fit as many years as possible yet none correctly. My only real problem with all this is these are not cheap and their return policy sucks.
