Gross Polluter

[rbohm]

ok next you want to look up each code, and find out what tests need to be run for each code. remember that each code only tells you what system is being affected, not what the problem is. for instance on EGR code could mean plugged passages, a vacuum leak, or even a bad electrical connection.

the canister purge valve code could be a loose gas cap. so run the tests for each code before giving up and letting the pros handle it.

 

[jrichker]

ok next you want to look up each code, and find out what tests need to be run for each code. remember that each code only tells you what system is being affected, not what the problem is. for instance on EGR code could mean plugged passages, a vacuum leak, or even a bad electrical connection.

the canister purge valve code could be a loose gas cap. so run the tests for each code before giving up and letting the pros handle it.

I gave the OP the all the code definitions and fixes for the codes he posted. He may have been a bit overwhelmed by the information dump he got. Sometimes that scares people and they loose focus and don't know where to start. The obvious answer is start with one code and pursue the test path until you have done all there is to do with it. Once you have that fixed, proceed to the next code test path and fix and repeat the process.

 

[Blaise805]

Hi guys not overwhelmed just frustrated I have replaced just about everything except the coolant sensor in the heater pipe and the egr position sensor. I changed the canister purge solenoid today and got rid of that code. I don't give up that easy. I'm a pretty fair wrencher I repair boat engines for a living and fixed up old range rover classics and got a few of them smogged when others gave in . This one is just being very stuburn. I went and paid the fifty bucks for a three month pass. I'm considering a new harness.

 

[rbohm]

but see that is the problem, you are throwing money at the problem, when you should be throwing time at it. for instance if you get an O2 sensor code, it doesnt meant the problem is with the O2 sensor, it just means that is what is being affected. you take the code and look up the tests that you need to run to find the problem.

so just replacing parts isnt the answer, testing is.

 

[Blaise805]

Yes I realize that. I have been running some tests but I think I need to inspect the entire harness that is my next chore.

 

[Blaise805]

So I took some time and looked at each code and checked it out my egr vacuum lines needed to be switched and that helped a bit. I inspected the oxygen sensor harness and its ok. I'm still getting codes 41 and91. The fuel pressure is 25 to 30 with regulator hooked up and 35 unplugged is that low enough to make the computer to dump more fuel and would it hurt to test drive it with the FPR vacuum off and plugged

 

[jrichker]

So I took some time and looked at each code and checked it out my egr vacuum lines needed to be switched and that helped a bit. I inspected the oxygen sensor harness and its ok. I'm still getting codes 41 and91. The fuel pressure is 25 to 30 with regulator hooked up and 35 unplugged is that low enough to make the computer to dump more fuel and would it hurt to test drive it with the FPR vacuum off and plugged

The 35 PSI with vacuum not connected is too low. You have fuel pump or regulator problems?

Check fuel pressure:
The local auto parts store may rent or loan a fuel pressure test gauge if you don't have one.
Disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. Check it for evidence of fuel present in the line by removing it and blowing air through it. If you find fuel, the fuel pressure regulator has failed. Reinstall the line; leave the fuel pressure regulator end of the vacuum line disconnected. Then cap or plug the open end of the vacuum line and stow it out of the way.
Connect the fuel pressure test gauge to the Schrader port located just behind the alternator.
Turn the ignition switch on & start the engine. Observe the pressure: you should see 37-41 PSI at idle.
Turn the ignition off; reconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Then disconnect the fuel pressure test gauge. Watch out for squirting gas when you do this.

Fuel pump pressure test
Disconnect the larger of the two fuel lines up by the Schrader valve. It is the return line and does not have the Schrader valve on it. Find a piece of rubber fuel hose and clamp it on the return line coming from the regulator. Stick a bolt in the other end of the hose and make sure that all your connections are tight and leak proof as possible. When this powers up, you don't want fuel squirting everywhere. Hook up the fuel pressure test gauge. Turn the ignition switch on and watch for leaks. You may want to use a helper inside the car to cut the switch off quickly if you have a leak. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the Upper RH corner to ground.

Caution!!! You have blocked the return line for the fuel pump! Pressure will rise very quickly past safe levels with a good pump
If the pressure goes up past 55 PSI, the pump is good and the fuel pressure regulator is bad. If the fuel pressure does not hit 55 PSI or more in a few seconds, the pump is bad or you have electrical problems.

 

[Blaise805]

Yay! it passed with flying colors. Thanks guys for not letting me give up. I wasn't really expecting it to pass but what I did was disconnect the fuel pressure regulator and just wanted to see what it blew. The numbers were very good . This must have been like this for along time I used to have this slight miss that sounded like a cam lope now it runs smooth. I'm going to put a new regulator bump the timing back up put the 70mil throttle body and get a new bigger mass airflow meter . Thanks again. Cheers Randy.

 

[rbohm]