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I got the carpet from LMR.. it was not that easy to install... In fact i effed it up and left it a bit short on the passenger side... it's not really moulded well and was hard to get all folds out of curves. What a pain.. Now I need to figure out how to remedy it.
Dang it. Was it the type w the mass backing that retails for about $200? I've read mixed reviews on ACC which is the brand that latemodel sells as well as every other retailer out there. I tried to seek out another brand but it seems like ACC has the market cornered and is the only show in town.
 
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Gentleman Gentleman Gentleman

Regardless of the type of backing you order, a steam iron is nearly a necessity to get that stuff all worked into and pressed into the corners and curves.

I discovered this purely on accident. My mother is an avid quilt maker etc., she has some pretty high dollar clothing irons and the one with the teflon bottom became my friend for the day. hehe

Just don't tell your mom that you're using her $400+ clothing iron for auto interior. hehe The cheapos would have worked as well. I didn't know one from another and this one looked legit. :shrug:
 
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I got the carpet from LMR.. it was not that easy to install... In fact i effed it up and left it a bit short on the passenger side... it's not really moulded well and was hard to get all folds out of curves. What a pain.. Now I need to figure out how to remedy it.
I always let mine lay flat in the sun on in the car in the sun and get it good and hot so the folds are not an issue. I am sorry you got one that must have been pressed off center. Of all the ones I have used or sold through a parts store, never was there a problem with fit. The only problem I heard of in person was with someone not knowing how to reinstall their seats without bolt holes for their seats and belts.
 
I always let mine lay flat in the sun on in the car in the sun and get it good and hot so the folds are not an issue. I am sorry you got one that must have been pressed off center. Of all the ones I have used or sold through a parts store, never was there a problem with fit. The only problem I heard of in person was with someone not knowing how to reinstall their seats without bolt holes for their seats and belts.

Maybe I should contact LMR and see if they'll do anything for me.. It sucks for sure.
 
stockinteriors.com

Acc carpet for 100.00 less than LMR.
Actually stock interiors is $26 more if you choose the $57 mass backing option and after shipping is paid.
Cj pony comes is the cheapest place I've found thus far if one uses their 8% stangnet discount. It's the same prices as Latemodel but late model's discount is only 6%. Shipping is free at both lmrs and Cj pony.
 

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I think I'm gonna get this project started around the 1st. Get the seats out and to the shop and start sprucing up the inside. Might even start a progress thread... But the progress may be slow. Buyer beware.
 
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Gentleman Gentleman Gentleman

Regardless of the type of backing you order, a steam iron is nearly a necessity to get that stuff all worked into and pressed into the corners and curves.

I discovered this purely on accident. My mother is an avid quilt maker etc., she has some pretty high dollar clothing irons and the one with the teflon bottom became my friend for the day. hehe

Just don't tell your mom that you're using her $400+ clothing iron for auto interior. hehe The cheapos would have worked as well. I didn't know one from another and this one looked legit. :shrug:
Oh and excellent advice, thanks man.
 
Rustoleum has made a "rusty metal primer" that costs less, and your local body shop probably has a similar product too. The POR 15 is for the car where you want to never fix the part again. Before this stuff, I remember having to use a certain spray on acid solution, then neutralizer, then primer, then top coat. Compared to what the labor and products add up to, the POR 15 one step product does not sound so bad.

The classic Stang guys can pipe up with other current rust proofing products, especially those who are rebuilding a rusted hulk of a shell.

The problem is the carpet and sound deadening hold whatever water has been tracked or leaked in. And I have never pulled a carpet without finding the light factory floorboard spray not thick enough to prevent at least some surface rust. If you live in a mostly dry climate, have good weatherstripping and your heater core does not ever leak, a good spray primer and a spray can of enamel could last quite a while.
Just do something to make sure you do not end up with Flintstone floorboards under the new carpet.
 
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No rust, dont worry about it... you could do some dynamat type sound deadener though...

A little surface rust wire wheel and rustoleum or something
 
No rust, dont worry about it... you could do some dynamat type sound deadener though...

A little surface rust wire wheel and rustoleum or something
Yeah I was thinking I'd see what kind of shape it's in before I choose which chemical agent I'd use. If it's not bad w a lil surface rust I think it might just get a coat or two of rustoleum. I think it's ok but there not telling, she traveled down some dirt roads in her younger days but she's a tough ole gal.
 
no salt in TX, bet they're factory clean, my vert is and verts leak..... take off the door scuff plate and unbolt the seatbelt and you can lift the carpet pretty high to see...