- Dec 19, 2010
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Depends on the year, they came with both.. I think sometime in mid to late 92 they went back to cast from hyper. Maybe someone will chime in here on exact time..
Head Gasket Trouble - Pull Engine
- Thread starter stang89bidges
- Start date
Depends on the year, they came with both.. I think sometime in mid to late 92 they went back to cast from hyper. Maybe someone will chime in here on exact time..
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Sponsors (?)
They were forged and went to hypers. If the piston top has a dent/nick it can cause a hot spot and help create detonation. Only a problem if you run your tune on the lean side. Like boosted asked if it compressed the ring lands at all or has the ability to scrape the wall you're going to need new Pistons.
Took some pictures tonight.
1st up, #3 piston I dropped. What do you think?
Then, I noticed this was right next to where it dented. I don't know if this was pre-existing or if it happened when I dropped it too??
Here is a shot with both the Dent and the Puncture:
Maybe I should take it to a machine shop and see what they can do? The Dent to me doesn't look bad. The Puncture looks worse but I have a feeling it was already there but maybe not. It hit the concrete but maybe it slapped the corner of a bolt in my engine stand. I dunno.
Thoughts?
1st up, #3 piston I dropped. What do you think?
Then, I noticed this was right next to where it dented. I don't know if this was pre-existing or if it happened when I dropped it too??
Here is a shot with both the Dent and the Puncture:
Maybe I should take it to a machine shop and see what they can do? The Dent to me doesn't look bad. The Puncture looks worse but I have a feeling it was already there but maybe not. It hit the concrete but maybe it slapped the corner of a bolt in my engine stand. I dunno.
Thoughts?
- Dec 19, 2010
- 5,719
- 4,238
- 224
Took some pictures tonight.
1st up, #3 piston I dropped. What do you think?
Then, I noticed this was right next to where it dented. I don't know if this was pre-existing or if it happened when I dropped it too??
Here is a shot with both the Dent and the Puncture:
Maybe I should take it to a machine shop and see what they can do? The Dent to me doesn't look bad. The Puncture looks worse but I have a feeling it was already there but maybe not. It hit the concrete but maybe it slapped the corner of a bolt in my engine stand. I dunno.
Thoughts?
Honestly, to me the integrity doesn't look compromised. Having the dents suck, but you can slick them up with a really fine file and some sandpaper to polish it out. JUST HIT THE HIGH SPOTS... I CAN tell you detonation occurs when cast iron-which glows red when heated- at little tiny knicks and hiccies can cause a premature ignition source, as well as a carboned up motor, but I don't think aluminum is that critical.. which is why ppl lean toward aluminum heads for high performance stuffs.. I could be way off, but I've seen much worse run, and it did fine. What's important to look for are cracks, and ring lands that will pinch or bind the rings, or snap off leaving chunks floating around... Baaad.
- Dec 19, 2010
- 5,719
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yeah, work that OD gently with a file (fine file), as well as the face and bring the mat'l back to it's original plane/apex. don't over do it, and polish it out..
Ok I will sand/file it down and polish her up.
Ok, question #2, clutch discs and flywheel, what are your opinions of these pics?
FYI: These have not been cleaned up, just removed from car and took pics.
Flywheel:
Clutch:
Ok, question #2, clutch discs and flywheel, what are your opinions of these pics?
FYI: These have not been cleaned up, just removed from car and took pics.
Flywheel:
Clutch:
- Dec 19, 2010
- 5,719
- 4,238
- 224
Take that clutch and pressure plate to the nearest lake or river and throw them into it. Take the flywheel to a machine shop and have it resurfaced.
Seriously??? Holy expensive batman, this is gonna set me back a few... 
That was a Centerforce clutch. The disc isn't wore out right? Just heat ruined the mating surfaces? Is there no way to simply just turn the clutch pressure plate and get a new flywheel?
If not, your opinions on a new clutch, stay with centerforce?
That was a Centerforce clutch. The disc isn't wore out right? Just heat ruined the mating surfaces? Is there no way to simply just turn the clutch pressure plate and get a new flywheel?
If not, your opinions on a new clutch, stay with centerforce?
- Dec 19, 2010
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That's a dual friction centerforce if I'm not mistaken.. I'm not crazy about them, heard bad things. Heat problems mostly... ahem. I've run standard style centerforce and never had problems.. Just haven't put much power to one though..
Op the advice given is accurate. You need a new disc and press plate. You can have the flywheel resurfaced. Sorry but you're going to have to spend some more money.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
yep. that clutch is worn and the pressure plate looks nasty. Did you or the prior owner like to do burnouts? Was it adjusted properly? The clutch is worn down to the rivets, the PP has cracks, grooves,and heat marks all over it.
Yeah, after doing a bunch of research I see what your talking about. I thought the deeper rivets were what I was supposed to wait for. I see the plate is almost down to the shallower rivets and she is done.
So this clutch is the centerforce dual friction. The pressure plate side of the disc has organic material and the flywheel side has puck style improved friction material for the higher horsepower. This clutch rates in the 500rwhp range. My car is only doing 300rwhp right now with my blower. I also don't drive it like i stole the neighbors daughter's virginity and her old man owns a mossberg magnum.
Also, as you have probably noticed my flywheel was still stock. The dual friction or any puck style clutch requires you to upgrade to the billet style flywheel. They are not compatible with cast iron, they will chew em up and spit em out. I have a feeling this is why the clutch generated more heat than it should and wore itself out faster.
I gotta tell you guys, this clutch felt awesome driving, I had no idea it was almost down to the rivets or heat ruined. But then again, I have been an owner of many clutch driven cars and trucks, but this is my first real street rod so I probably had no idea WHAT to be feeling for. So she never slipped but probably because I creep her, and when I get on the car, I let the clutch out first then stomp the pedal to the metal.
So my plan is to downgrade to a fully organic disc that will still hold more horsepower for later down the road. I'm going with the Exedy Mach 400 stage 1. Interestingly American Muscle site calls it a stage 2, but everyone else calls it a stage 1. Whatever. It's at a rating of around 400-450rwhp and that's plenty for what I'm doing.
Check it out: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/EXD-07800/Exedy-Stage-1-105-Clutch-Kit-Mustang-05-10
So this clutch is the centerforce dual friction. The pressure plate side of the disc has organic material and the flywheel side has puck style improved friction material for the higher horsepower. This clutch rates in the 500rwhp range. My car is only doing 300rwhp right now with my blower. I also don't drive it like i stole the neighbors daughter's virginity and her old man owns a mossberg magnum.
Also, as you have probably noticed my flywheel was still stock. The dual friction or any puck style clutch requires you to upgrade to the billet style flywheel. They are not compatible with cast iron, they will chew em up and spit em out. I have a feeling this is why the clutch generated more heat than it should and wore itself out faster.
I gotta tell you guys, this clutch felt awesome driving, I had no idea it was almost down to the rivets or heat ruined. But then again, I have been an owner of many clutch driven cars and trucks, but this is my first real street rod so I probably had no idea WHAT to be feeling for. So she never slipped but probably because I creep her, and when I get on the car, I let the clutch out first then stomp the pedal to the metal.
So my plan is to downgrade to a fully organic disc that will still hold more horsepower for later down the road. I'm going with the Exedy Mach 400 stage 1. Interestingly American Muscle site calls it a stage 2, but everyone else calls it a stage 1. Whatever. It's at a rating of around 400-450rwhp and that's plenty for what I'm doing.
Check it out: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/EXD-07800/Exedy-Stage-1-105-Clutch-Kit-Mustang-05-10
One a more empty pockets note, I did inventory Tuesday night and have been studying like crazy online this whole week trying to get my parts list complete. I feel like I am pretty close now. Here is my new list with pricing and misc information.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/oq56cow8zw285v9/PartsList_Engine_Rebuild_2015.xlsx?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/oq56cow8zw285v9/PartsList_Engine_Rebuild_2015.xlsx?dl=0
Well, assuming I got all that correct above about my clutch, how do you guys feel about Exedy clutches?
Edit: How do you guys operate your clutches? I know that the slower you let them out on take off the worse it is for a clutch and it's wear. It's like a brake pad in a sense. But how about using your clutch and engine to slow the car? I have always done this. I will downshift through all the gears every time I slow down or stop. I let the clutch out pretty fast but is this causing more heat and problems? I'm talking daily driving in the city at all the stop lights and etc.
Edit: How do you guys operate your clutches? I know that the slower you let them out on take off the worse it is for a clutch and it's wear. It's like a brake pad in a sense. But how about using your clutch and engine to slow the car? I have always done this. I will downshift through all the gears every time I slow down or stop. I let the clutch out pretty fast but is this causing more heat and problems? I'm talking daily driving in the city at all the stop lights and etc.
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I do the same thing. Don't do it every time but most of the time. I have no expierience with that brand. I've only used the king cobra.
