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I guess I thought that spacer helped cool the air...

Im thinking I'm gonna go 70 , I already have 24lb injectors. I rapped withe TMoss and sending my intake out to him. Another a 300$ port job shipped 2 ways, looking forward to that. I've been leaning towards the tfs1, is there a big reason I should go custom cam? I wouldn't even know how to start that conversation! Lol.
The intake spacers are one of those gimmicky type deals as far as manufacutre claims of improved performance.
 
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Im no expert but if you're going vortech and on a busget, I dont think porting etc is necessary to get the power you want....
Me either really now that I think about it. Went back and re-read he was looking to make between 375-400 hp range. Not long ago a guy on here made I think it was 270 or so rear horse w the tfs 170's, non ported explorer intake and I think some off the shelf cam. Add the Vortech 6-8 lb kit and there's your other 100 hp right there. If the chances are that he might stay n/a for a substantial amount of time and is on a budget and is seeking the most bang for the buck then I'd spend the $300 on the ported lower. But if you have the money to throw at the motor all at once I'd leave the intake alone, bolt it down to the heads, and slap on you're supercharger and voila, there's your 400 ish horse.
 
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What's your fuel setup situation? Do you have big ole injectors already and a big ole fuel pump that's adequate for forced induction? If no then don't forget to add them to the grocery list. I also think that w forced induction that some sort of tune is almost mandatory. Maybe someone more knowledgeable will chime in but I think it's a safe bet to add a "tune" to the shopping list. The first one is kinda pricey. Was for me anyway. Had to buy the sct chip, pay the guy to fart around on the laptop, and pay an hourly rate to be on the dyno. I think the first one cost me around $500 or so.
 
I haven't forgot about fuel delivery, however I haven't tended to it yet aside from 24lb injectors which I am now rethinking.... That "tune" brings me back to the Megasquirt question, would that be reasonable approach?
 
I haven't forgot about fuel delivery, however I haven't tended to it yet aside from 24lb injectors which I am now rethinking.... That "tune" brings me back to the Megasquirt question, would that be reasonable approach?
That's out of my wheelhouse. How much does the whole setup cost to be up and running? Do you understand fuel tables? Do you think you'll be doing many more mods that would benefit from tuning further down the line? All technical debates in regards to chassis dyno vs diy tune (for the simple fact that I know very little on the matter) aside I like the chassis dyno for the fact that I get to find out how much power my money and labor efforts made. After the first tune I had two more tunes (which were years apart) and they ended up costing in the $200 range give or take. Most shops will only charge you hourly for using the dyno after the inital tune. They don't make you pay for the guy farting around on the laptop.
 
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Start at the back of the car first. Buy a good fuel pump(255 Walboro-aeromotive340 etc). The rails and lines are good to around 500rwhp. Buy a good fuel regulator and injectors/MAF. I like a Kirban regulator and you'll need around 42#inj and use a PRO-M meter. Stay away from c&l meters. There are some mail order tuners but I've heard bad things and have never used them. If you feel that you can tune it yourself I recommend looking into Megasquirt or a PiMP microsquirt system. You will need a laptop and their products but it's not overly complicated. The PiMP is around 700$ and they have a website to help with tuning. If you do go to a standalone system you could sell your MAF and run it as a closed speed density system.
 
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Start at the back of the car first. Buy a good fuel pump(255 Walboro-aeromotive340 etc). The rails and lines are good to around 500rwhp. Buy a good fuel regulator and injectors/MAF. I like a Kirban regulator and you'll need around 42#inj and use a PRO-M meter. Stay away from c&l meters. There are some mail order tuners but I've heard bad things and have never used them. If you feel that you can tune it yourself I recommend looking into Megasquirt or a PiMP microsquirt system. You will need a laptop and their products but it's not overly complicated. The PiMP is around 700$ and they have a website to help with tuning. If you do go to a standalone system you could sell your MAF and run it as a closed speed density system.
Why does one need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator If he's getting a tune? I thought the adjustable regs where what yall used to compensate before tuning was available to the common man?
 
Why does one need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator If he's getting a tune? I thought the adjustable regs where what yall used to compensate before tuning was available to the common man?
Guess that's true. I'm used to the nitrous set up and played with the press. In a blower/tune you wouldn't need one.
 
The stock ecu will compensate for any increase in fuel pressure delivered by an adjustable fpr. It may help get an extra couple lb/hrs out of a set of injectors that are borderline too small, but the right injectors and a good tune are better options.

Fwiw, i have a kirban regulator sitting on my shelf. Took it off because even with a 3/8 intake spacer it was hitting the egr valve, and there was no real gain that i ever saw with it. Went to a new stock style regulator and haven't looked back.
 
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