E-fans... Help!

So I've had the SVE electric fans on my 91 for about a year now using a Derale adjustable controller with a thread in temperature probe installed in the water neck. I had one of these controllers fail on me pretty quickly, so LMR sent me a replacement. I have been using this setup for about 6 months with no further issues. Suddenly my fans wouldn't turn off. They would come on as soon as I turned the engine on and stay on until the battery died (I had them wired directly to the battery). They would not turn off unless I unplugged the probe from the controller. I replaced the probe, and they still ran eternally. I figured the controller must have gone haywire, so I decided scrap my Derale and invest in a nicer setup.

I purchased a Flex-a-Lite variable speed controller that also has the thread in probe and a 3 way override switch (up is on regardless of temp, flat lets the controller operate fans, down is off, regardless of temp). I spent an entire day wiring, soldering, heat shrink wrapping, and looming all wires and connections.

The controller is now wired to the ignition, so the fans turn off when the key is off. I wired the override switch to the controller, and quadruple checked every wire to make sure it was connected correctly.

Here's where it gets confusing.

I finally start my car, only to find that the fans, once again, come on right away! No big deal though, right? I have a switch that will turn them off. So I flick them off, but they keep going. I shut the car off, and they turn off. I try again and they immediately come on again. I switch them off and look at the controller and see it's not getting the override signal (it has LED indicators).

I pull the plugs to the probe, and they turn off. I then try switching them on, and they come on. I check the indicator, and they're receiving the override signal from the switch.
So, the switch only works with the probe unplugged. With the probe plugged in, the fans come on at all times (keep in mind the engine was completely cold when I did all of this). This is the same problem I had with my Derale, with a totally different control system wired completely differently, and a new probe.

Why are the turning on? Why does the switch only work when the probe is disconnected?? Why did this problem start out of the blue, and continue when every part of the system has been replaced except the fans?

Anyone have any ideas of experienced something like this before? I am beyond puzzled and beginning to get frustrated. I have checked 10+ times to make sure everything is plugged in where it should be and wired exactly how the instructions say.

Thanks in advance!
 
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The FAL setup is fairly easy

1 wire to + of battery
1 wire to ground
1 wire to Fan +
1 wire to fan -
1 wire to A/C on
Temp sensor probe

My guess is your connections are not solders and used crimp connectors which are working there way loose. Also did you use at least 10g wire for the battery + and ground, and use a 30 amp inline fuse.

If the LED light is not on, then you either have no power or a bad ground.
To check the probe pins on the FAL controller- make a small jumper wire and connect the two pins together and the fan should come on. Your probe may be bad.
 
The FAL setup is fairly easy

1 wire to + of battery
1 wire to ground
1 wire to Fan +
1 wire to fan -
1 wire to A/C on
Temp sensor probe

My guess is your connections are not solders and used crimp connectors which are working there way loose. Also did you use at least 10g wire for the battery + and ground, and use a 30 amp inline fuse.

If the LED light is not on, then you either have no power or a bad ground.
To check the probe pins on the FAL controller- make a small jumper wire and connect the two pins together and the fan should come on. Your probe may be bad.

Yes, that is how it is wired with the correct size wires. All connections are soldered securely. Even if the probe is bad, why is it not allowing the switch to override it?
 
I dont believe those controllers are set up for a switch. If you want to test the probe- make a jumper wire like I said and see if the fan comes on, The temp switch or wiring could be bad.

The fan should come on when you turn the AC on regardless.

Not the opitmal setup- but in the interim before you get a replacement temp switch, wire up the manual switch into the same two pins as the probe switch is.
 
A
The FAL setup is fairly easy

1 wire to + of battery
1 wire to ground
1 wire to Fan +
1 wire to fan -
1 wire to A/C on
Temp sensor probe

My guess is your connections are not solders and used crimp connectors which are working there way loose. Also did you use at least 10g wire for the battery + and ground, and use a 30 amp inline fuse.

If the LED light is not on, then you either have no power or a bad ground.
To check the probe pins on the FAL controller- make a small jumper wire and connect the two pins together and the fan should come on. Your probe may be bad.

Also, the indicator IS on, just not for the override switch when it is activated UNLESS the probe is unplugged, then the switch works and the indicator light is on
 
I dont believe those controllers are set up for a switch. If you want to test the probe- make a jumper wire like I said and see if the fan comes on, The temp switch or wiring could be bad.

The fan should come on when you turn the AC on regardless.

Not the opitmal setup- but in the interim before you get a replacement temp switch, wire up the manual switch into the same two pins as the probe switch is.
The switch is made specifically to work with this exact controller
 
Here's a diagram of the wiring in the flex a lite kit with the switch. Everything is wired exactly how you see here with the exception of the AC switch (optional connection that I did not perform).
 

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I can say I bought two of the derale units from lrs, the first one failed after a few days. (Module).. the second was bad right out of the box.(also module) I gave up and wired in a relay to just turn the fans on with the key switch. Not optimal, but geez, man. You get tired of junk. Seems like no one makes a good fan controller..
 
I can say I have used the FAL 33054 on 3 cars and not one has failed. Still waiting for the OP to jumper the probe pins like I suggested twice to see if the probe is faulty.

When I called and spoke with FAL a few years ago, they told me they did not recommend a manual switch used.
 
I can say I have used the FAL 33054 on 3 cars and not one has failed. Still waiting for the OP to jumper the probe pins like I suggested twice to see if the probe is faulty.

When I called and spoke with FAL a few years ago, they told me they did not recommend a manual switch used.

I have heard of FAL units failing as well, but you can bet I won't buy derale again.. Maybe will give FAL a shot when I get my ducks all in a row.. I'd really like to hear feedback on other available brands also. Hint, hint..
 
I have heard of FAL units failing as well, but you can bet I won't buy derale again.. Maybe will give FAL a shot when I get my ducks all in a row.. I'd really like to hear feedback on other available brands also. Hint, hint..

Brian @ DCC makes a good controller but I don't like waiting weeks or months for him to build one. I also would not use a derale. A few guys on the Corral have had success with Volvo and GM temperature relays and switches.

Volvo 2 Speed Electric Fan Controller Relay Mark VIII Taurus 93 Mustang Jeep GTO | eBay

The reason I like the FAL is it is a soft touch controller and doesn't spike on like most.. The Contour and MKVII fans tend to spike amps on startup which fry cheap controlllers.

I've seen guys use an Ebay controller but have no personal experience with it.

PWM Radiator Cooling Fan Control Wiring Kit Included | eBay
 
Brian @ DCC makes a good controller but I don't like waiting weeks or months for him to build one. I also would not use a derale. A few guys on the Corral have had success with Volvo and GM temperature relays and switches.

Volvo 2 Speed Electric Fan Controller Relay Mark VIII Taurus 93 Mustang Jeep GTO | eBay

The reason I like the FAL is it is a soft touch controller and doesn't spike on like most.. The Contour and MKVII fans tend to spike amps on startup which fry cheap controlllers.

I've seen guys use an Ebay controller but have no personal experience with it.

PWM Radiator Cooling Fan Control Wiring Kit Included | eBay

Hmmm. I've got Mishimoto twins. Wonder if they were spiking and killing the derales.. I was using the supplied relay and good sized wire. Nah.. one unit was bad right out of the box. I jumpered it like you recommended and it wouldn't come on. Only with the ac override would it work. The tstat circuit was junk..

thanks for the links btw.
 
Sorry for the late reply guys! Phone died from prolonged flash-light use LOL the fans are actually working now, not quite sure what I did that fixed it, but the Probe works great and turns the fan on at correct temp consistently. Switched Manual on and manual off are both working on the override now, as well as the static setting that let's the controller turn the fans on and off by temp.
 
Get yourself a 1997-1998 Lincoln MKv8 fan, stay away from 1996 slower fan motor, a water temp sensor 180, place it t-stat and run the needed electrical components, if your interested i dig up my diagrams, its been so long and call it a day. Nothing will beat a Mk8 fan regarding CFM's, period and end of story. Only a Dodge viper fan, which doesnt fit in a foxbody. I have all the part #'s if you are interested. Just my 2 cents. I avoid all those fancy Spal controllers, they are unecessary in my view. I have the same Mk8 fan in my fox for 10 years, still running 180-200 all day, in 100 degree humidity w A/C on. =) Btw- you rig it to turn on w A/C and always keep an emergency power switch in car for back up.
Anthony
P.S. Mind you, im also running an Edelbrock WP and 2 core Aluminum rad, 50/50 mix, keeps everything running cool.
 
Get yourself a 1997-1998 Lincoln MKv8 fan, stay away from 1996 slower fan motor, a water temp sensor 180, place it t-stat and run the needed electrical components, if your interested i dig up my diagrams, its been so long and call it a day. Nothing will beat a Mk8 fan regarding CFM's, period and end of story. Only a Dodge viper fan, which doesnt fit in a foxbody. I have all the part #'s if you are interested. Just my 2 cents. I avoid all those fancy Spal controllers, they are unecessary in my view. I have the same Mk8 fan in my fox for 10 years, still running 180-200 all day, in 100 degree humidity w A/C on. =) Btw- you rig it to turn on w A/C and always keep an emergency power switch in car for back up.
Anthony
P.S. Mind you, im also running an Edelbrock WP and 2 core Aluminum rad, 50/50 mix, keeps everything running cool.

Monte, are you the same fellow who had a decent website about 20 years ago with writeups on installs? I remember you from the Corral back in the day.

Only thing I will add is for a controller I like the DCC and FAL 33054 units. For a fan the MKVII is great and the Contour fan as well.
 
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Monte, are you the same fellow who had a decent website about 20 years ago with writeups on installs? I remember you from the Corral back in the day."
YES!!!, Hi Mike!!! That was me, i have always been a cheerleader of the Mk8 fan, back in the day as you remember there were no really good e-fans, the Black Tragic LOL and that upgraded Black Tragic 2 couldnt even generate 3000cfms. The Mk8 fan puts out 4200-4600cfm, can suck small kids in from the front grill. LOL I bought 3 spare Mk8 fan motors for back up thinking, one day- may need them, glad i did, but never needed. Always remember to use the correct fan connector for the LINCOLN MARK Viii, not the T-bird or cougar, etc. You will burn them up.
Anyways, how ya been Mike???
Later Anthony
 
Only thing I will add is for a controller I like the DCC and FAL 33054 units. For a fan the MKVII is great and the Contour fan as well.[/QUOTE]

Im guessing those controllers are a whole lot better nowadays, right?? Back then, they sucked. I recall lots of dudes having bad ones, or units that simply stopped working and they were all sending them back, the guy was so overwhelmed. That is the main reason, i went with the less intelligent controller, LOL and 20 years down the road, still has never failed me, or left me stranded.
 
Monte, are you the same fellow who had a decent website about 20 years ago with writeups on installs? I remember you from the Corral back in the day."
YES!!!, Hi Mike!!! That was me, i have always been a cheerleader of the Mk8 fan, back in the day as you remember there were no really good e-fans, the Black Tragic LOL and that upgraded Black Tragic 2 couldnt even generate 3000cfms. The Mk8 fan puts out 4200-4600cfm, can suck small kids in from the front grill. LOL I bought 3 spare Mk8 fan motors for back up thinking, one day- may need them, glad i did, but never needed. Always remember to use the correct fan connector for the LINCOLN MARK Viii, not the T-bird or cougar, etc. You will burn them up.
Anyways, how ya been Mike???
Later Anthony


Doing well Anthony- a little ( a lot) older, grayer, etc... The FAL 33054 has worked on a few of my cars without a problem for the last several years. I used to have a PMS controller that literally caught fire- remember those?

Glad to see you are still around. Is your website still up? Post a link

Take care,

Mike