Progress Thread Project Copper Can
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So friends I had another issue with the car apparently my radiator sprung a leak while I was driving and lost a bit of coolant, long story short my car temp reached 260 degrees at least that's where my gauge stops. Cars was popping and banging something fierce. So I put a new mishimoto 2 row in
Out with the old and in with the new
So I started her back up and she doesn't pop anymore, my concern now as I was slightly revving it nothing about 2500 Rpms just to get the temps up so I can fill with fluid and burp the system. As I would let off the throttle completely it would die every now and again the Rpms would get real low and other times it would just shut completely off. Did I mess something up? Bent push rod? I'm gonna pull the plugs tomorrow to check them out. Anyone wanna help me? @84Ttop @srtthis @madmike1157 @madspeed @TOOLOW91
Out with the old and in with the new
So I started her back up and she doesn't pop anymore, my concern now as I was slightly revving it nothing about 2500 Rpms just to get the temps up so I can fill with fluid and burp the system. As I would let off the throttle completely it would die every now and again the Rpms would get real low and other times it would just shut completely off. Did I mess something up? Bent push rod? I'm gonna pull the plugs tomorrow to check them out. Anyone wanna help me? @84Ttop @srtthis @madmike1157 @madspeed @TOOLOW91
I'd run the codes first. Might just be a sensor(ect comes to mind). You may have blown a head gasket etc but I doubt it's a valve fwiw.
See this is my problem is for some reason I can't read the codes on my car it won't retrieve anything key on engine off or even key on engine running ... I've tried it with two different readers
Sounds like a wiring issue
hage you looked into @jrichker posts about this subject? Lots of good info there. Personally I hope I never ever have serious wiring issues. I HATE that chit. Give me something I can use tools/get dirty/skin my knuckles on any time over that. The basic "sensor" job isn't a major pita but you might be in for a more "strenuous" task (sorry for the doom and gloom). It may be something simple.
Yes I have looked into jrichkers posts throughly I need to know more or less a sequence of operation on how the code checking system or circuit works
This may help, however the wire colors may be different, but the connectors and pin arrangements should be the same.
Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 86-90 model 5.0 Mustangs
Disconnect the battery positive terminal before making any resistance checks.
The voltage drop in the ground cable will cause incorrect resistance readings.
How it is supposed to work:
The black/white wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power and drivability problems. Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from anyplace on the engine harness with the battery pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.
What sometimes happens is that the test connector black/white wire gets jumpered to power which either burns up the wiring or burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer. That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 & 60.
The STI (Self Test Input ) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. Jumpering it to power can produce unknown results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test simply verifies that there are no breaks in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.
How to test the wiring :
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground (black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than 1.5 ohms.
If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between the black/white wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins 40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that that and the computer’s internal ground has failed, and the computer needs to be repaired or replaced.
See Computer issue? | Mustang Forums at StangNet for Joel5.0’s fix for the computer internal signal ground.
If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem
The following is a view from the computer side of the computer wiring connector: it is for an A9L, A9P computer.
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
Check out the diagram and notice all the places the black/white wire goes. Almost every sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info
See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.
So I changed out my plugs for a set of densos I had in my box they are from last year still good hardly any miles but my question is why do my ngks that I pulled out look like this? I'm searching up spark plug reading and its pointing to the fact that the car overheated but I'm not sure here's a pic for you more experienced fellas
Hmmmm so many variables here . Glad to see you are playing again . Ect sensor will cause all types of issues
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Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
I'm gonna check all my sensors still but i think I found it being the barometric pressure sensor, it was unplugged idk how that happened
@jrichker i did your test and between my computer ground (pigtail on the stock harness) and all my sensors in harness (ect, act, Bp, etc) they all came back around 400 ohms. I then read it from pin 46 to all my sensors and I'm getting .08 ohms on all the sensors I tested from the computer ground. Do I have an problem between the wire for pin 46 to my computer ground?
How new are your batteries in your meter?
How good are your electrical skills? It will help me to tailor the answers so that I don't make assumptions. Otherwise I might skip including some things that an inexperienced electrical troubleshooter would need to know about.
Update: so I was able to get my car started again and get it to idle. Had a buddy come over and take a look at it he's pretty certain that it's a vacuum leak that I have. We tested this by taking off the source hose and heard no change in idle. I'm wondering if it is my intake manifold gaskets
Very well could be. Very common and you got it pretty hot. Have you checked to see if you have a head gasket issue also?
I'm terrible with diagnosing stuff but how do I check the head gasket? Compression test or can I do the same as a vacuum leak and spray carb cleaner on it?
What are we checking the head gasket for ? Usually a bad head gasket will mix coolant in oil or vise versa .
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That's very true I did check the coolant and my oil no bubbles in the coolant and no milky color in the oil
I think your ok as far as that goes
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