Always though Ram HD was the same, know the feel and function pretty much the same
Head Gasket Trouble - Pull Engine
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Always though Ram HD was the same, know the feel and function pretty much the same
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- Dec 19, 2010
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Just out of curiosity, what failed? Did you check all the clearances, or just tear it down and reassemble it?
edit: OR did the shop just slap it together??
They're probably comparable, street clutches aren't exactly state secrets and the kc has been around a loooong time, ram probably tried to duplicate its feel, but valeo made the original and at least some of the oe clutches for ford, and i think sell the kc under their own label now if you can find it.
Just ordered my head porting kit. Also went to the auto parts store and grabbed some permatex valve lapping compound. Ready to grind me some iron!
I figure I'm not going to need dykem very often so instead of using that for scribing my gaskets i'm going to use some pvc purple. Why not eh, got that lying around already.
I figure I'm not going to need dykem very often so instead of using that for scribing my gaskets i'm going to use some pvc purple. Why not eh, got that lying around already.
Made some progress this weekend despite the cold weather. Setup a propane heater and went to town with my head porting kit and piles and piles of research I sucked up over the past month.
I started on the combustion chambers. Laid down a little spray paint, installed a couple dowel pins, laid down my gasket and scribe'd the inside of gasket. The passenger side head(cylinders 5-8) had more material from the casting than the driver side head. I used a carbide bit to slowly remove the material up to my scribe marks.
Passenger side cylinder head, just scribe'd my gasket.
This is a side by side comparison of 1 done and 1 not. Can't really tell too much with the angle but you get the picture...
Intake side of head. Same thing, scribe'd inside my gaskets. I'm using Felpro intake and exhaust gaskets. On the Ford 302 stock heads you can't just grab your intake bolts and screw down the gasket to hold it in place while you scribe. I ended up putting the head gaskets on first then hooking the intake gaskets over the tabs of the head gasket just like you would do during the installation process. Worked out just fine just a little tricky making sure they simulated the position when bolted down.
Intake holes scribe'd.
Here are a few pics after running the sanding stone to remove material to my scribe.
Now we move on to the exhaust side. The exhaust ports had a lot of material to remove. Those things were horrible coming out of the cast mold from factory. I should get a lot better flow out of these.
Here is my scribe on the factory opening. Picture doesn't show it justice, trust me there was a ton of material on the inside, more on that later.
Here is a good shot of the scribe line and also a better look at the inside of the port opening. Notice the 2 humps inside. The first one closest to the top is a hole, not sure what it's function is but it goes nowhere, just dead ends into the head. The second hump lower in the hole is of course the valve guide. Notice how ugly the walls are inside and also notice how much the airflow is restricted due to the opening size?
Here is how much that can be improved!
This shot sux but it shows the difference in the outside port size opening.
Here is a close up of before and after, notice the upper material that I was able to remove.
Before:
After:
I still haven't gotten to sanding and polish yet, only stone removal. The intake ports are pretty well done, they need to stay rough to the touch to help promote good fuel atomization. The port kit I bought however polish bits/pads are too large, they don't fit in the dam holes even after all the material I removed. They seem tiny compared to whatever the kit was modeled after... I will figure something out though.
Another process I did was clean up my water jacket ports. They were pretty bad. I also found some huge casting material left over after they were cast from factory. I didn't spend too much time on them but should get better cooling now with less blockage in those port openings.
Here is a pic of water jacket/port opening. You can see that massive mound of cast iron on the bottom of the port just inside the opening. I actually had half of it gone before I thought about taking a picture but you get the idea.
Sorry, I was pretty cold and tired after I was done and didn't take pics after I finished the water port. I spent about 8 hours on these things so far and I'm still not done... Very close though. I just took my time so I didn't screw up...
I still have to finish polishing the heads up in the exhaust ports and sand and polish in the exhaust side combustion chambers. Then I will port match my lower intake manifold as well. I will post back when its all done.
Whew...
I started on the combustion chambers. Laid down a little spray paint, installed a couple dowel pins, laid down my gasket and scribe'd the inside of gasket. The passenger side head(cylinders 5-8) had more material from the casting than the driver side head. I used a carbide bit to slowly remove the material up to my scribe marks.
Passenger side cylinder head, just scribe'd my gasket.
This is a side by side comparison of 1 done and 1 not. Can't really tell too much with the angle but you get the picture...
Intake side of head. Same thing, scribe'd inside my gaskets. I'm using Felpro intake and exhaust gaskets. On the Ford 302 stock heads you can't just grab your intake bolts and screw down the gasket to hold it in place while you scribe. I ended up putting the head gaskets on first then hooking the intake gaskets over the tabs of the head gasket just like you would do during the installation process. Worked out just fine just a little tricky making sure they simulated the position when bolted down.
Intake holes scribe'd.
Here are a few pics after running the sanding stone to remove material to my scribe.
Now we move on to the exhaust side. The exhaust ports had a lot of material to remove. Those things were horrible coming out of the cast mold from factory. I should get a lot better flow out of these.
Here is my scribe on the factory opening. Picture doesn't show it justice, trust me there was a ton of material on the inside, more on that later.
Here is a good shot of the scribe line and also a better look at the inside of the port opening. Notice the 2 humps inside. The first one closest to the top is a hole, not sure what it's function is but it goes nowhere, just dead ends into the head. The second hump lower in the hole is of course the valve guide. Notice how ugly the walls are inside and also notice how much the airflow is restricted due to the opening size?
Here is how much that can be improved!
This shot sux but it shows the difference in the outside port size opening.
Here is a close up of before and after, notice the upper material that I was able to remove.
Before:
After:
I still haven't gotten to sanding and polish yet, only stone removal. The intake ports are pretty well done, they need to stay rough to the touch to help promote good fuel atomization. The port kit I bought however polish bits/pads are too large, they don't fit in the dam holes even after all the material I removed. They seem tiny compared to whatever the kit was modeled after... I will figure something out though.
Another process I did was clean up my water jacket ports. They were pretty bad. I also found some huge casting material left over after they were cast from factory. I didn't spend too much time on them but should get better cooling now with less blockage in those port openings.
Here is a pic of water jacket/port opening. You can see that massive mound of cast iron on the bottom of the port just inside the opening. I actually had half of it gone before I thought about taking a picture but you get the idea.
Sorry, I was pretty cold and tired after I was done and didn't take pics after I finished the water port. I spent about 8 hours on these things so far and I'm still not done... Very close though. I just took my time so I didn't screw up...
I still have to finish polishing the heads up in the exhaust ports and sand and polish in the exhaust side combustion chambers. Then I will port match my lower intake manifold as well. I will post back when its all done.
Whew...
- Dec 19, 2010
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- 4,238
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Hey man.. just gonna throw this out there. This scribing the line thing and grinding metal out of your combustion chamber makes the chamber larger, resulting in lower compression, which equals less hp. Dont open those chambers, polish them to a mirror shine, and blend the bowls under the valve seats, but please, please don't open those chambers up more..
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
yeah I didnt want to say anything as he's done some work here.
You really only want to open up the intake and exhaust ports to the gasket and go back about an inch or so into the ports to create a smooth radius You want to take as little off as possible and remove all the rough edges and turns For the bowls. just smooth then up and shine them up. Those big gouges need to be smoothed out. Be very careful around the valve seal area. I would not even use any grinding tips, just cartridge rolls and buffing tips. You do not want to end up with combustion chambers or ports that are too hogged out. That can lead to all sorts of problems ranging from poor performance to vacuum leaks.
I'd also spend some time chasing all of the bolt holes to ensure proper torque readings.
You really only want to open up the intake and exhaust ports to the gasket and go back about an inch or so into the ports to create a smooth radius You want to take as little off as possible and remove all the rough edges and turns For the bowls. just smooth then up and shine them up. Those big gouges need to be smoothed out. Be very careful around the valve seal area. I would not even use any grinding tips, just cartridge rolls and buffing tips. You do not want to end up with combustion chambers or ports that are too hogged out. That can lead to all sorts of problems ranging from poor performance to vacuum leaks.
I'd also spend some time chasing all of the bolt holes to ensure proper torque readings.
Last edited:
- Dec 19, 2010
- 5,719
- 4,238
- 224
Yep. With cast iron the polishing of the chamber fights detonation. All of the little tiny points on the rough surface become ignition sources when the motor is hot and glowing inside. This is combatted by knocking down these microscopic pointy spots when the surface is polished. Smooth shiny surface = less detonation. Not as good as aluminum, but the next best thing.
I was reading this book by David Vizard. Starts on page 155, just read the part on "Supercharger Heads". Only a couple paragraphs.
How to Build and Modify Chevrolet Small-Block V-8 Cylinder Heads - David Vizard - Google Books
I'm running about 6psi with my vortech and this is what led me to deshrouding my combustion chamber. Is this wrong? Let me know if you can't see the online book.
How to Build and Modify Chevrolet Small-Block V-8 Cylinder Heads - David Vizard - Google Books
I'm running about 6psi with my vortech and this is what led me to deshrouding my combustion chamber. Is this wrong? Let me know if you can't see the online book.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Do yourself a favor and visit Tom Moss's website about porting. He and his son know more about porting SBF than anyone I know..
Tmoss Porting
Tmoss Porting
I'm starting to worry now. After reading a few articles on his site I fear the worst... I may be in the market for new heads after this...
Yup what they said. I do give you a tip of the hat for the work you attempted. I just polished the bowl a little and gasket matched the ports when I did my e7s. I fear you went a little to far bud. At least gives you an excuse to buy some aluminums.
You have not "ruined" anything, but the work you have done is in areas that produce much gain. Read the articles on my website a couple of times before you proceed. The most productive areas in power on the inlet are the pushrod pinch (open to ~1.030" wide), the short side radius and the bowl sides at the short side radius (SSR) which you want to widen and smooth the transition. As far as exhaust, do not touch the floor - do most of the work on the top of the port and raise it to the gasket height. I suggest not hogging it out. Tear drop around the guides on both ports, remove any edges from machining in the bowl. Take your time, you be fine. Hitting cooling water jackets is the worst thing that cam happen - then you're toast.
That makes me feel a lot better tmoss, thanks for taking the time to look at my situation. Very much appreciated. I will take your advise and proceed.
On the exhaust ports, what is that big bulge on the top with the extra hole going nowhere? I read somewhere it was to inject air into the mold during casting but they didn't mention there was a hole in it after they were done?? Is it ok to just grind that down over the hole? Fill the hole after grind? I will read your articles and look for this in them.
On the exhaust ports, what is that big bulge on the top with the extra hole going nowhere? I read somewhere it was to inject air into the mold during casting but they didn't mention there was a hole in it after they were done?? Is it ok to just grind that down over the hole? Fill the hole after grind? I will read your articles and look for this in them.
That makes me feel a lot better tmoss, thanks for taking the time to look at my situation. Very much appreciated. I will take your advise and proceed.
On the exhaust ports, what is that big bulge on the top with the extra hole going nowhere? I read somewhere it was to inject air into the mold during casting but they didn't mention there was a hole in it after they were done?? Is it ok to just grind that down over the hole? Fill the hole after grind? I will read your articles and look for this in them.
You are probably referring to the Thermactor Air port. The Thermactor Air pump (AKA smog pump) pumps air to the exhaust port on engine startup. This helps burn off the excess gas due to a rich mixture on cold starts. Once the catalytic converters gets hot enough to work efficiently, the computer switches the smog pump airflow to the converters to help oxidize the pollutants.
Sweet, that's what I needed guys thanks! Now tonight I will be reading tmoss articles till my eyes cross.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Tom- thanks for chiming in. I learn something new every time you post. I have one of your ported Explorer intakes and couldn't be happier.
What about cc volume consistency? With the material I removed I'm sure I didn't get them all the same as I didn't have one of those handy dandy volume cc kits.
Worry about making the flow path less restricted and flowing better and don't worry about consistent cc volumes where you have already worked.
