What To Expect From Comp Polymer Box Upper And Gt 40 To Switch To Holley Sytemax Or Tfs R Intake
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Easiest way to check performance gains is the track. Do you have a wideband meter? I'd do that and see where things are at. You can "tune" your own car in a n/a setup with an adj fuel press regulator and timing. If you already have a chip an intake change shouldn't change the fuel map considerably. If after the swap you notice a drop in performance/drivability then I'd check into a retune. I would be shocked if you lost performance with an intake change. I have heard there could be an intake port alignment with some intakes on the AFR 185's(older versions not sure on new "renegade" heads). You should search this issue before purchase.
Yes, you should pick up torque. I can not imagine a worse set up for torque than what you have. Also, the old school tuning will be fine for minor tuning changes.
Op I also noticed in your sig that your ET times are mid 12's@112mph. Can you state more of your cars details? Suspension exhaust tires etc
While I know what you mean, without getting into a detailed dialogue, I'm referring to the fact he could adj a few things. He already had a tune and I'm assuming has the fuel map/ecu timing in there. An intake change shouldn't change those parameters to the point of a poorly operating engine. With a wideband he could check it and if need be adj a few # of fuel if needed. I know there is more to a "dyno tune"
no i dont have a wideband 
, I do have an bbk adjustable fuel pressure regulator though, By the way the car is an 86 gt, have just some sticky street tires on it, subframe connectors, upper and lower control arms, kyb adjustable shocks and struts, lowering springs, 5 lug/ disc brake conversion, Power plant is 10:1 331 with only like 1000 miles on it. old set of afr 185 with 61cc chambers,76mm MAF converted,75mm tb, no smog, no egr, have bbk long tubes with off road h pipe and slp loudmouth resonators. also the car is just a stock t-5
, I do have an bbk adjustable fuel pressure regulator though, By the way the car is an 86 gt, have just some sticky street tires on it, subframe connectors, upper and lower control arms, kyb adjustable shocks and struts, lowering springs, 5 lug/ disc brake conversion, Power plant is 10:1 331 with only like 1000 miles on it. old set of afr 185 with 61cc chambers,76mm MAF converted,75mm tb, no smog, no egr, have bbk long tubes with off road h pipe and slp loudmouth resonators. also the car is just a stock t-5
Ya i know i should get better MAF and a larger TB, I figured i have time and money to do just the intake now and i can do the little stuff like that later.
Here is just a few pics of the car and a dyno graph, Dyno tuner thought it did pretty good for that plastic
intake and 76mmMAF and 70mm Tb setup
Here is just a few pics of the car and a dyno graph, Dyno tuner thought it did pretty good for that plastic
intake and 76mmMAF and 70mm Tb setup
Nice 86! I like the look of that intake btw. But I'm positive you'd pick up some power through out the powerband with a long runner intake. You do have a clean dyno graph though. I don't think the 75mm tb is killing you. How big is that opening for the intake? Could you run a 90mm? You might see some descent improvement if you concentrate on a good pro m MAF,a Anderson Powerpipe,and getting a wideband w/gauge. I'd spend my money there first. C&L meters aren't very good and tend to cause problems. The wideband isn't going to make power it's just a great diagnostic tool that you can use. I was just referring earlier to IF you swap the intake you could POSSIBLY increase enough air that the tune could be off. The computer is more than capable of adjusting but I'm not sure if you have a "chip" or however it was dyno tuned. Theoretically you could add a few extra pounds of fuel pressure to take advantage of the increased airflow if necessary. Some tuners like to use a base timing and fuel pressure and adjust everything within the "tuned chip". So you wouldn't want to change any of the timing or fuel pressure settings without knowing how it's tuned. Depending on the setup a tuner can even get rid of the MAF altogether. Your ET would drop if you wanted to change some suspension pieces. But I know this isn't a drag toy. You have enough mph to get close to 12.00.
The TB is probably fine, I've seen NA 347's with them that make over 400rwhp with 75's, so...
For an intake i'm a fan of the rpmII, but if I remember correctly it has to be opened up for a 75mm tb, couple that with a power pipe and pro m 85 or so in the fender and you could be certain the intake tract isn't where you are losing power.
For an intake i'm a fan of the rpmII, but if I remember correctly it has to be opened up for a 75mm tb, couple that with a power pipe and pro m 85 or so in the fender and you could be certain the intake tract isn't where you are losing power.
I was wrong about the 75mm tb, its actualy a 70. And yes my tuner tuned it through the chip and set a base timing and a base fuel pressure and changed everything on the chip. Why do you guys think i need to upgrade MAF and get better intake like the anderson before the actual intake manifold? I am looking for the most power for the money. I dont think switching the MAF is going to get me 20+ rwhp like an ported holley might possibly get me?
Just my novice guess is no. I don't believe there'd be a noticeable difference w a 5mm larger hole and since its been tuned via chip I don't think the maf's manufacture's pre-set "calibration" should matter.
What maybe a horse or two gain if any? I think the issue they have w your maf is the brand name and how they come "calibrated" from the factory. But as I stated earlier I'd think the calibration issues would've been worked out when they tuned it. I'm often wrong but I'm correct on occasion.
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The mass air meter controls the mixture. It's one of the most important sensors on your engine.
Using a C&L is like buying generic glasses off the shelf from Walmart. Yeah they work, but they aren't necessarily meant for you and you aren't going to see your best.
The sampling tube method of metering air flow just isn't accurate, it's a one size fits all, as compared to a pro m that is properly calibrated on a flo bench.
Guys pick up good power going from a 75 pro m (which is much better than a c&l) to an 80 because the 80mm reads the air 360 degrees.
Your metering really needs to be accurate, it's not like you are making 235rwhp.
Consider this, I know guys with stock shortblock 302's in the 350rwhp range (some higher, I can't remember if the highest was 359 or 363rwhp) that have afr 165's. That's with no dyno tuning.
Many tuners won't even bother tuning a car with a c&l. They tell you to replace it before they get to work.
Using a C&L is like buying generic glasses off the shelf from Walmart. Yeah they work, but they aren't necessarily meant for you and you aren't going to see your best.
The sampling tube method of metering air flow just isn't accurate, it's a one size fits all, as compared to a pro m that is properly calibrated on a flo bench.
Guys pick up good power going from a 75 pro m (which is much better than a c&l) to an 80 because the 80mm reads the air 360 degrees.
Your metering really needs to be accurate, it's not like you are making 235rwhp.
Consider this, I know guys with stock shortblock 302's in the 350rwhp range (some higher, I can't remember if the highest was 359 or 363rwhp) that have afr 165's. That's with no dyno tuning.
Many tuners won't even bother tuning a car with a c&l. They tell you to replace it before they get to work.
I know a guy w a stock maf bolted to a stock long block. 'Twas tuned and he made 332 rwph (not too far off from the Op's 331 cubes). There was no turning up the nose from the tuner due to the oriley reman unit..- sample tube included.
Besides all that riffraff, how much horsepower did those guys gain by switching to the sample tube-less maf? I get that it's the "matching" of all parts to get optimum everything but this guys looking for a bang for buck item.
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The smaller MAF,intake pipe,and tb are a slight restriction and swapping these out should pick up at least 10rwhp(maybe more). Add a long runner intake(Holley or rpm) you should see minimum of 25. I'm not just talking peak numbers either. I wouldn't be surprised with those mods and a new tune you could see real close to 375-400rwhp. Chasing hp in a n/a form isn't as easy as forced induction. To go back to the first question of "is a intake swap worth it?" It just depends on the person. You will see more low end torque and still pull at the high end. I would expect a few tenths in ET. With the other mods included you should see as much as half a sec quicker. You could sell off your parts and have a total investment of around 750$ you have a good head/cam combo already. The intake system is what is holding it back to its maximum potential.
To give you an idea Ive been talking to a lot of "experts" on my project(stock 302,tfs11r heads,custom cam,etc). The one aspect I did wrong is bought a BBK cai. I should have went with the power pipe. I've been told it should make 335-350rwhp with a tune. I'm looking for a low 12 on Nittos and hoping for a 11 with some bias ply drag tires. I have a milder cam than you and less cubes. You should be at least 360 rwhp and I've seen a lot of 331/347 around 400.
To give you an idea Ive been talking to a lot of "experts" on my project(stock 302,tfs11r heads,custom cam,etc). The one aspect I did wrong is bought a BBK cai. I should have went with the power pipe. I've been told it should make 335-350rwhp with a tune. I'm looking for a low 12 on Nittos and hoping for a 11 with some bias ply drag tires. I have a milder cam than you and less cubes. You should be at least 360 rwhp and I've seen a lot of 331/347 around 400.
If it was you and you had to choose either a new tb and maf or a new intake which would you do?
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