@chuzie,

You have an idle problem of unknown origin. Since you don't seem to be the person that installed the camshaft or have the manufacturer's data sheet, you cannot assume that it is anything other than stock. Idle malfunctions can imitate the sound of a wild cam.

What is the mechanical condition of the engine? Good compression? No noisy valves or rattles?
How does the ignition system and electrical wiring look? Old spark plugs old sparkplug wires with burned or damaged boots and wires?
What codes did you get?
Have you fixed all of the codes?
Do you have any vacuum leaks?
What sort of vacuum readings are you getting?
Have you fixed them?
In other words, did you just look at the checklist and pick and choose what you wanted to do?

Start at the first post of the checklist and work your way down, verifying the current step is good BEFORE going to the next step. Make NO assumptions.
YouTube videos do not communicate the "feel" of what is occurring and often are of such poor quality as to be useless. Bad lighting and shaky camera are two of the prime problems that are very common.

The checklist is written because I am not present when you do the work.
Therefore I cannot determine the condition of the engine and engine control computer system. I also have no idea of the level of proficiency you have in the mechanical and electrical areas. So you get a laundry list of things to look at, separating the things that are good from the things that are not good. What is left is a small number of problem symptoms and descriptions that usually point to a definite area or component.

IN other words, just do the checklist. Post the results of you code dumps, engine off and engine running and I will give you 5.0 Mustang specific fixes.
 
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So y'all don't think jrichker is nuts, he posted a response to an inquiry I had posted earlier and subsequently deleted just before he responded.

My idle, with IAC and spout disconnected was 600 hunting to 800 and 700 hunting to 800. With the IAC and spout connected, it is stable at 875 +/- 25. I am concerned as to why it is hunting so much when I set the base idle with IAC and spout disconnected and if that type of surging was the purpose of this checklist or if it is more geared toward a surging idle condition under computer control with IAC and spout connected. I would also like to get my idle down to the 650-750 target.

I went through the checklist and skipped over troubleshooting items that did not have codes (O2, MAF, ECT, ACT, TPS). If I should run those items in the checklist as well, regardless of the presence of a related code, please let me know.

The engine runs well other than the crazy poor fuel economy. It was supposedly "rebuilt" but there was no documentation to support that claim. My old 302 got 15mpg and this 351 gets 9, but that is for another thread ;)

Mechanical condition is good.

Compression (1-8)
130
135
135
130
135
135
135
133

No noise or rattles.

Ignition and electrical are in good condition with no burns. Gapped at .050

KOEO (All components have been removed and codes expected)
81
82
85
84

CM
33 (item removed)

KOER (All components have been removed and codes expected)
94
44
33

Ran checklist with above codes since they are related to removed components and won't be cleared.

No vac leaks. Smoke tested till I turned yellow.

Vac=12.5" @ 875rpm

TPS=0.82v @ idle

Lightning lower
Explorer (GT40) upper
Explorer 65mm TB
A1A MAF
Manual brakes

Thank you for taking the time to present such a detailed response. Now please point this blind wanderer in the right direction. ;)
 
Codes look OK since you say that you have disconnected the emissions control equipment. This is not a best practice, but in most cases it does not cause idle problems.

The vacuum reading looks low considering the idle speed. You may have an undiagnosed vacuum leak.

Setting the base idle speed:
First of all, the idle needs to be adjusted to where the speed is at or below 600 RPM with the IAC disconnected. If you have a wild cam, you may have to raise this figure 100-150 RPM or so. Then the electrical signal through the IAC can vary the airflow through it under computer control. Remember that the IAC can only add air to increase the base idle speed set by the mechanical adjustment. The 600 RPM base idle speed is what you have after the mechanical adjustment. The IAC increases that speed by supplying more air under computer control to raise the RPM’s to 650-725 RPM’s. This figure will increase if you have a wild cam, and may end up between 800-950 RPM

Remember that changing the mechanical idle speed adjustment changes the TPS setting too.

This isn't the method Ford uses, but it does work. Do not attempt to set the idle speed until you have fixed all the codes and are sure that there are no vacuum leaks.

Warm the engine up to operating temperature, place the transmission in neutral, and set the parking brake. Turn off lights, A/C, all unnecessary electrical loads. Disconnect the IAC electrical connector. Remove the SPOUT plug. This will lock the ignition timing so that the computer won't change the spark advance, which changes the idle speed. Note the engine RPM: use the mechanical adjustment screw under the throttle body to raise or lower the RPM until you get the 600 RPM mark +/- 25 RPM. A wild cam may make it necessary to increase the 600 RPM figure to 700 RPM or possibly a little more to get a stable idle speed.
Changing the mechanical adjustment changes the TPS, so you will need to set it.

When you are satisfied with the results, turn off the engine, and re-install the SPOUT and reconnect the IAC. The engine should idle with the range of 650-750 RPM without the A/C on or extra electrical loads. A wild cam may make this figure somewhat higher.

An engine that whose idle speed cannot be set at 600 RPM with the IAC disconnected has mechanical problems. Vacuum leaks are the #1 suspect in this case. A vacuum gauge will help pinpoint both vacuum leaks and improperly adjusted valves. A sticking valve or one adjusted too tight will cause low vacuum and a 5"-8" sweep every time the bad cylinder comes up on compression stroke.

An extreme cam can make the 600 RPM set point difficult to set. Contact your cam supplier or manufacturer to get information on idle speed and quality. [/INDENT]
 
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I agree that is a pretty low vac. Kind of at a loss trying to track down the ghost leak though. Tried spraying the engine down with brake cleaner, smoke tests, etc.

If I can find a way to effectively seal off the TB, maybe I can do a pressure test as a last ditch effort to verify a leak.
 
I agree that is a pretty low vac. Kind of at a loss trying to track down the ghost leak though. Tried spraying the engine down with brake cleaner, smoke tests, etc.

If I can find a way to effectively seal off the TB, maybe I can do a pressure test as a last ditch effort to verify a leak.
Home Depot has some PVC caps & red rubber expansion plugs that are a close fit. Seal off the TB and put some air in there.


Vacuum leak due to slipped lower intake manifold gasket...

Ask Nicoleb3x3 about the intake gasket that slipped out of place and caused idle and vacuum leak problems that could not be seen or found by external examination. I don't care what you spray with, you won't find the leak when it is sucking air from the lifter valley. It simply isn't possible to spray anything in there with the lower manifold bolted in place.

photodisplay.php
 
Sealed the TB and put 5psi shop air to a vac line on the plenum with the PCV disconnected and sealed. I can hear air in the crankcase via oil dipstick and valve cover breathers. This can't be good.
 
This is a great thread. My name is josh I'm new to the forum. I have a 93 ssp car. 306 with a e cam, gt40 heads have been gone through, bowl blended, gasket matched, gt40 upper & lower, shorty headers, off road h pipe, stock throttle body, maf, injectors, and airbox with k&n drop in.

Things replaced iac also cleaned throttle body and maf did base idle reset.
The car would ssometimes just die like you shut off the ignition and have a slow crank at times the battery and cables are new did research people where saying the pip so replaced the distributor. Now car surges pretty bad sometimes will die. It has a performance qoutient balancer so assuming the timing marks are correct by that and set at 10 degrees with spout out. I have noticed two things the first it seems to build heat pretty quick while at stop lights has electric fan with thermostat set to come on at 210 car has a 190 thermostat. Second if you shut the car off and say go in to a store or get gas upon restart it will idle steady lopey :) but normal then drive down the road come to a light back to surging. Checked fuel pressure around 38-39 with vac house on. I'm going to check vac reading tomorrow and for codes. Took plug out to set at tdc ground strap was white with a little gray tint. To me seems like the balancer is off marking whise need to verify that tho. I'm at a loss here bout the throw in the towel. Not sure why i cant the idle to stay like it does if shut off and sits for a few. It idle raised closer to 1k it will do okay but that doesn't seem right almost seems like its lean which have a mallory adj regulator I can put on it. Really hoping to get this resolved was thinking maybe a tune would help but after reading dont think it would. Read on another forum that the dashpot for iac needs to be changed when bored out any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Also have not tried mounting iac upside down bought from parts store. Cleaned salt and pepper shakers. Have idle set at 750 but surges can try base idle reset didn't know your suppose to remove spout.
 
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Today I worked on the car. Installed a mallory adj pressure regulator. Pulled codes some for egr as the smog pump and egr and no longer being used. One for tps to low and left o2 lean. Installed new o2 and set fuel press at 40 with vac line on. Check vac with car at temp read 16 steady. Best I could get the car to idle was at 850 with no surge except for when the electric fan comes on
 
Today I worked on the car. Installed a mallory adj pressure regulator. Pulled codes some for egr as the smog pump and egr and no longer being used. One for tps to low and left o2 lean. Installed new o2 and set fuel press at 40 with vac line on. Check vac with car at temp read 16 steady. Best I could get the car to idle was at 850 with no surge except for when the electric fan comes on
Were you able to get the base mechanical idle speed set 600 RPM, or did you need to turn it up higher?
 
I was informed the engine has a e cam and the motor is fairly fresh less than 5k on it. I know thw block was decked tho not sure how much and bored to .30 over due to it overheating. Gt 40 heads bowl blended and gasket matched. Anytime i try to get the mechanical idle close to 600 it surges pretty bad. Best it will run at is 650-700. Right now I have the idle close to 800 and has a little surge but not as bad. To me it seems the to heat up fairly quick at stop lights and temp will go up if cruising in a lower gear is that normal ? Two things I've noticed one the previous owner "smoothed" the maf housing not sure if that has anything to do with it and two id you unplug the maf car remains running normal just with check engine light. There are still codes as the egr is plugged in but no vac line to it or the solenoids and smog is unhooked but belt still turns it. Vaccum gauge reading is 16" steady. Timing at 10 deg. Reman distributor noticed the rpm needle freaks out every now and again. Would a alternator have anything to do with any of this ?
 
Few other things... while changing distributor notice what looked like to me some oil residue around the front of lower intake where the rubber gasket is. Two just for the heck of it I mounted iac upside down being that it's from orielly auto parts car idle around 1100 and steady but wouldn't drop any lower than that so mounted the way it is normally idle dropped but surged again not sure if that helps any. About to pull my hair out here lol just want it to idle as it should with a e cam plan to get it tuned but want the car to be right before a tune so I'm not working backwards. With the mods listed wouldnt think it would need tuned to idle right. I did read on a forum car needs tuned when bored the dashpot for iac needs to be changed.... One other thing granted it has a 2.73 gear car still doesn't feel like it has a whole lot of get up and go to it. Anyone one what the factory setting for throttle set screw is ?
 
I have set the idle using that procedure to the T. With iac unplugged lowest rpm I can achieve stable idle is 650. the car now with base idle reset and drove it for a bit is 750 +/-25 coming to a stop the idle hangs around 1k as it should then will dip down and come to idle. The car still flucates a little maybe 50 rpms or so. overall driveable is good. As mentioned in previous post the mass air housing has been smoothed out inside. I flipped the iac so connector is pointing up idle jumped to 1100 and was stable. Iac from parts store should I flip it again try base idle procedure again ?
 
I have set the idle using that procedure to the T. With iac unplugged lowest rpm I can achieve stable idle is 650. the car now with base idle reset and drove it for a bit is 750 +/-25 coming to a stop the idle hangs around 1k as it should then will dip down and come to idle. The car still flucates a little maybe 50 rpms or so. overall driveable is good. As mentioned in previous post the mass air housing has been smoothed out inside. I flipped the iac so connector is pointing up idle jumped to 1100 and was stable. Iac from parts store should I flip it again try base idle procedure again ?

With an aftermarket cam, I'd settle for the 750 RPM you have. If 650 RPM was the lowest RPM you could get the base idle set to, the 750 RPM is probably the best you can get. Remember, SPOUT out, IAC disconnected. Make sure all the codes are fixed and there are no vacuum leaks - anywhere...
 
It idles very good aroud 850. Checked haven't found any vac leaks. Fixed the o2 code only codes left are for egr as it is no longer used has a plate with gasket in between it and intake. Egr is still hooked up so the engine light stays off. A thought crossed my mind that iI hadn't mentioned the car was a factory automatic the guy I bought it from did the 5 spd swap still using auto computer could that have anything to do with the idle ?
 
The auto transmission computer will work OK, I have done it with no problems. It may tend to stall or hang when you slow to a stop. Other that that, there are no surge issues because of an auto trans computer being used in a 5 speed car.
 
Whatever you do don't put a 5 speed computer in an automatic car. The harness that runs by that rack is different. Like onefstssp stated the automatic computer should be fine. There's a guy named Willy Lynch the does a hell of a job tuning cars.... He's very helpful at dirtydirtyracing.com. He tunes with moats quarter horse. Seems like with the work done it needs a chip.
 
Whatever you do don't put a 5 speed computer in an automatic car. The harness that runs by that rack is different. Like onefstssp stated the automatic computer should be fine..

Here's the problem and the fix, It is well documented here on Stangnet....
O2 Sensor harness interchange and modification

Originally Posted by 302EFI


Revised 16-Oct-2011 to add O2 sensor harness warnings
The wires for the 02's and low oil did not change throughout the years, they are all in the same place.
The main ones you need to worry about are (on the harness end (ECU) that plugs into the 02 plug) is:
\- 1. Lightblue / yellow
- 2. White / Purple
- 3. Purple / Yellow
The White/Purple & Purple/Yellow gets looped for a automatic ECU
The Purple/Yellow & Lightblue/Yellow for a manual ECU

fox-5-0-o2-sensor-drawing-jpg.529445

Not all wires are shown for clarity and simplicity

See Oxygen sensor Harnesses - Manual/Auto differences and year differences - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum for more O2 sensor wiring harness info

Basic premise to use with transmission swaps:
Only run a 5 speed trans O2 harness with an A9L. Do not run an Auto O2 sensor harness with an A9L. Doing so will damage the computer’s internal signal ground.
Only run an Auto trans O2 sensor harness with an A9P in a car that has an Auto trans. Using a 5 speed trans O2 sensor harness with an Auto trans will cause no crank problems.
See Computer issue? | Mustang Forums at StangNet for Joel5.0’s fix to the computer internal signal ground.
The 4 cylinder O2 harness uses 4 wire O2 sensors. It probably won’t work correctly without modifying it.