Engine Critique My Build

[91gte303]

im on a shut down right now working 98hrs/week. in other words,mucho money for my "problem child".

looking into this build and figured i would post everything i could think of before i start ordering.

306
forged flat top d.s.s pistons 9.8:1 with 64cc chambers
stock crank and rods.( figure they will hold up good...need input)
n-41 cam( maybe the n61...not sure..please be sure to give input on this)
tfs tw heads
proform 1.6 roller rockers
either the professional products typhoon or the holley systemax(is there much difference?)
65mm pro-products TB
C&L 73mm maf
24lb injectors
1-5/8" full lengths
2-1/2" exhaust with h-pipe no cats and 40 flows( maybe spin-techs...anybody run these?)
under drive pullies

I have 3.73 rears. thinking of 4.10's. have lsd already
adjustable uppers
remove the quad shocks
found out i already have 90/10's up front.
50/50's in the back
sub-frame connectors...weld in
z class t5 with ram hdx clutch kit
bbk quadrant,cable and firewall adjuster
bunch of weight taken out up front. like i have said before..the front sits up like the engine is out of it.

what do yall think? hp guesses? 1/4 mile times on e/t's guesses?

 

[91gte303]

Also, it will be my DD and track beater.

 

[Chuckman]

go with the systemax over the typhoon, not only will it make more power, it's not just a crappy chinese copy.

i've also never been a fan of dss anything, i'd be more looking at probe/mahle/diamond/etc.

i'd stick with the 3.73's, you wont see much difference bumping up to the 4.10 from there, and if its youre dd it will help you keep your sanity (ive done it with mine, it's doable, but cruising at 2500-3000rpm does get old).

 

[A5literMan]

I'd also switch out the MAF to a pro m 75 or 80mm and a 70-75mm accufab tb. The opening on the systemax is 75mm no reason to create a bottle neck before the intake and limit airflow. C&L meters are notoriously a problem. Not to say some have run them trouble free but a lot of people that's not true. Don't run proform parts they are cheap and again tend to have problems. Look into crane golds or comp cams. If a more budget friendly is necessary I like the scorpions. But that is way behind the other options. Also DONT street drive with 90/10 struts!! They are terrible for body control under hard braking and any type of turns. If you want another cheap option look into some Strange Engineering adj struts and shocks. You can tune them for the track and the street.

 

[2000xp8]

Like a5liter said, no c&l, buy a pro m or pmas
No proform rockers, get ford racing, crane, trickflow ones
No professional products parts, period, they are all crap.
4.10's aren't worth it over 3.73's, just leave it be, either is fine, but not worth changing.

If the front sits high and you have drag shocks, it's probably because someone put drag springs in it without cutting them. Most cars are fine with regular springs and weight removed from the front end.

Your suspension idea for a daily driver probably isn't the best. Sacrifice a few tenths for safety and run a regular suspension.

 

[mikestang63]

All good advice given

Go with Eagle, Manley, or CHP internals not DSS
I'd build a 331 or 347- it wont cost you much more and give you a much better hp for the buck
If you are keeping the stock rods- get the ends risized for ARP bolts
Crank- get an eagle don't use your stocker
Not a fan of proform rockers- Harland Sharpe, Scorpion, Crane , FMS
Not sure which TW heads but I would recommend the new 11R- if 331 or 347 then 205CC
Cam- buddy rawls, Ed Curtis of Freezy? custom cam- spend the extra $75
70MM TB- prefer Accufab
Edelbrock performer II or Systemax intake
MAF- at least 75MM most likely 80 Pro M
at least 30LB injectors
3.73;s if a stick. maybe 410 if AOD
MM rear lowers
Stock uppers
Good set of Tokico or Bilsten shocks
Steeda or H&R springs
MM full length subframes

 

[7991LXnSHO]

I am still stuck at 98 hour weeks. Lots of overtime, but do you remember where you live and what to do with a wrench? Do you have health or sanity left? I tried it in grad school one summer and it stunk! The boss wanted me to continue those hours once fall semester started, and denied me a day off to rest first. He allowed no option for real part time employment, or full time benefits. It was the only job I did not give 2 minutes (not the normal two weeks) notice for. Enjoy your car parts when you get time!

 

[91gte303]

yeah,lots of ovetime. barely and barely.lol as far as health,just got out of the hospital last night. i was told if i wasnt there for work that i dont have a job. then i mentioned the labor board and they havent been taking taxes out on me...their tune changed.lol i just ordered the ram hdx clutch kit and the steeda 3 piece quardant kit. still think if i wanna do the 331 or 347. i just kinda wanna keep it a 306 for the "aint no way thats a 306" factor. also thinking of the wolverine 1087 grind. found one on ebay from a speed shop that closed down. wants $100 for it..worth it or stay away?

 

[2000xp8]

Not sure there really is a such a thing as the aint no way that's a 306 factor, lol.
Me personally I see no point in a built 306, especially with custom internals. It's going to have to go to the machine shop anyway so if you are paying them, might as well let them build you something better.
Besides, since it's a 302 based engine once it's assembled it could be anything in there.

Your original plan probably was going to net you less than or around 300rwhp, so nobody was going to be surprised it was a 306 anyway.

Why are you building a shortblock at all? What's wrong with your current engine? If it's good just do the h/c/I swap and save yourself a ton of money.

 

[91gte303]

i just want it better and i see no point in putting a bigger cam in with stock compression. you will always get lack luster results. the current engine is stock short block with e303 cam. 3 bar cobra heads, explorer upper/lower,65 mm tb,19lb injectors,proform 1.6 pedistle rollers, long tubes, no cats,h pipe and 40's dumped all 2-1/2".
im already getting the "that aint a 302" from some chevy guys that have ridden in it.

 

[2000xp8]

The compression isn't going to get you a big change in power, most likely just lighten your wallet. If your shortblock is good, just run it as is.

A fox is a light torquey car, always gives passengers the illusion of speed and danger. I bet with gears and an offroad exhaust they would say the same as they do now. 260rwhp isn't exactly setting the automotive world on fire, these guys sound kinda easy to impress.

Not sure where you got this idea that you need to alter the compression, but it's not going to be cheap nor is going to be a mind blowing difference. Your plan lacks logic, you go with a custom shortblock and use an off the shelf cam. Do the reverse, use a custom cam and leave the shortblock be.
Same result except my suggestion is a lot easier and a lot cheaper.

Oh, and one last thing, my suggestion can be completed in a weekend or less, a shortlbock build? Who the hell knows how long that could take.

 

[A5literMan]

i just want it better and i see no point in putting a bigger cam in with stock compression. you will always get lack luster results. the current engine is stock short block with e303 cam. 3 bar cobra heads, explorer upper/lower,65 mm tb,19lb injectors,proform 1.6 pedistle rollers, long tubes, no cats,h pipe and 40's dumped all 2-1/2".
im already getting the "that aint a 302" from some chevy guys that have ridden in it.

Ummm, my stock shortblock is going to be pushing around 350rwhp with stock Pistons. So your a little off on your info. A good h/c/i with the right parts can support a pretty healthy cam and make great power for the street.

 

[91gte303]

I'm not believing what I'm reading. I get my information from builders like David vizard and Nelson racing. Sure you may get good results,but you will always leave some on the table. The bigger cam you run,the more cylinder pressure you bleed off during the over lap period in the cam timing events. Higher compression makes up for it. I myself are not a stranger to building engines. Just New to Ford's and fuel injection

 

[91gte303]

Either way. I'm not saying y'all are wrong. I'm thinking if just doing the h/c/I and be done. Seems to be the best bang for the buck,as y'all have stated. Please don't misunderstand,I'm not being abrasive. I'll just do the tw heads, and systemax intake as well as 24 lb injectors since I already have them and the mad off a 93 Cobra that's calibrated for the 24's.sound good?

 

[2000xp8]

Cobra's have the injector calibration in the computer. Buy an 80mm pro m calibrated for 24's, that's worthwhile purchase. The meter is one of the most important pieces of the puzzle.

The compression thing just isn't going to change much, certainly not going to be a bang for your buck.

 

[91gte303]

well.....anybody want a MAF of a '93 cobra? I already bought it off ebay when i bought the car.lol

 

[A5literMan]

If you want to bump some compression(which I am) buy some 56cc TFS 190 or 205cc 11r heads with some cometic head gaskets. This will raise your compression.5-.75. Combined with a good custom cam and intake(I'm going to port my systemax) and the above stated pro m. Also you might need to go with a 30#inj or if keeping the 24's you can increase the fuel pressure if needed. The great thing about the revised valve angle is the extra ptv clearance you gain. Also these heads will "swap" over to a much more aggressive shortblock if you ever go in that direction. The 205's have been on plenty of 650hp big inch n/a motors and can support around 1000 in a forced induction combo.