Things To Look For Before Starting Car That Hasn't Run In 8 Years

[erriod]

Just as the title says, I haven't ran my 87 lx for over 8 years. It has sat mainly with an issue for starting and a bad clutch. Why start it...because you can't even drive it. Fast forward....I have a new clutch ready to be installed. Because of time constraints I will be finding a shop to do that work for me.

My question mainly is, what do I need to focus on to make sure when I start up the car, I don't damage it. Within the last week I have:
-Drained oil, gas, antifreeze and replaced with new stuff.
-Changed belts
-pulled spark plugs (cleaned) - They only had maybe 5000 miles on them before my car sat.
-squirted oil in the cylinders and rotated the engine. Turned very easy and smooth quite a few times.
- replaced battery (and starter cable, starter switch in the engine compartment - I think this was causing issues for me before, so one of the reasons I haven't ran the car)

So, I plan on starting the car this weekend. Is there anything else I should do or think of doing before turning the key?

Stephen

 

[liljoe07]

I would prime the oil system before the first start. Other than that, you pretty much have everything I would have done, covered.

 

[mikestang63]

you covered many of the basics

check all of the vacuum and fuel lines, hoses for cracks. if it were me. i would replace all of the vacuum lines and coolant hoses. maybe the fuel lines if they look bad
change all the filters- oil, fuel, air, pcv valve
chances are the thermostat is froze- shut. I'd change it
new plugs, cap. rotor
I would crank the motor with the coil off the distributor and the spark plugs out first for a few revolutions to listen for any sounds. and to prime the oil pump and get oil to the top end
after your fire it up, set timing, base idle,
check for leaks- oil, coolant, fuel
Your engine gaskets and seals have been sitting dry for 8 years. chances are they are going to leak. My guess is the rear main seal will need to be replaced.

Change the oil after the first 100 miles.

 

[erriod]

I can't think off hand, but what would be the damage if the thermostat was frozen shut? I actually have the heater core bypassed right now because it was leaking before.

What about just turning it over with the starter to prime the oil, with the coil removed? Since I did change the oil before I spun it, how much would it have primed while I turned it with the engine removed?

I don't want to take a short cut, but I'm getting antsy to start it. To pull the distrubutor out to prime the oil, I would have to remove a cross frame anti sway bar first. I'm trying to avoiding having to remove too much stuff right now. Don't get me wrong, if it is strongly recommended, I would do it rather than hurting the engine.

I will replace the fuel filter after I get it started. I know that is probably bad.

 

[liljoe07]

After 8 years, I rather see you prime the system with a drill. If it was months, then using the starter wouldn't bother me.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

BRAKES! Make sure they have pressure and are not stuck. You do not want to start it then run into the neighbor's fence. And you do not want one wheel dragging a flat spot on the tire. If you had good antifreeze when parked, I would watch the temp gauge instead of changing the thermostat today. But I never had a parked one stick.

Edited for spell check or accidental real meaning.

 

[erriod]

Yes....the Brakes I'm a bit concerned about. I have spun the front wheels and they are a little stiff - I'm thinking bearings. But, the brakes aren't stuck there. Eventually, I will be pulling the wheel bearings and re-packing them with grease, but that's down the road. I also don't have current plates/tags and the clutch was slipping bad before stopped driving it (one of the reasons I stopped driving it...) In the middle of April I will be having the clutch replaced (new billet flywheel and ram HD clutch).

I will be picking it up off the rear wheels in a little bit to check to see how the rear tires spin. This is the point where I really wish I had disc brakes in the rear instead of drum. It's on the project list.

The anti-freeze was changed out when I pulled the radiator to spin the engine. I have an electric fan and with the supercharger pully I only had about 1/2" clearance. Fan couldn't be easily be pulled on it's own, so I ended up pulling the radiator as well. Good time to change the fluid.

I did end up priming the oil last night. It was something I had thought about before hand, so that's for steering me in the direction of doing that.

In case anyone was wondering:
Procharger 9# boost
3.73 gears
E303 cam
Aluminum GT40 heads
36# injectors w/back pressure regulator
Tremec 3550 5-speed transmission w/short throw shifter
I think it's a 75mm intake, but could still be 65.
1987 LX convertable
250lph booster fuel pump
.....that's all I can think of off hand.
and...it did do an 11.47 on the 1/4 mile one time. I say one time, because I believe per regulations for times under 11.50, a roll cage is needed.

The biggest problem is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$, a cage is high on the list once the funds start flowing.

 

[erriod]

She runs, exhaust manifolds were leaking bad though, but I guess that is sort of too be expected. But, atleast I can turn her over on a regular basis without worrying about other things.

 

[2000xp8]

Sounds like it only needs general maintenance most of which can be remedied cheap.
Congrats, always nice to hear something run that hasn't ran in years.

Did you let it get up to temp?