Status
Not open for further replies.
An Idle mind is the Devil's playground.

Well at least that's how the Google search worded it.

I'm sitting here contemplating as to whether I should attempt covering Winkin' and Blinkin'.

The real hard part would be turning the stuff, down into the bezels where the mesh is and getting it to stick well enough w/o getting that damn spray glue all over the mesh. One path I've contemplated has been to paint the mesh first, let it thoroughly dry, mask it off, then spray that glue in the center first and force the leather down to the mesh edge. I'd take an XActo knife and trim the excess off at the mesh.

The other way just popped into my head, and I did a few quick searches to see if it could be done, and look decent. (follow me here)

I trim the leather edge at the top of the bevel. Cut it clean, then do a thing called burnishing the leather edge (sanding) dyeing it black, then sealing it. The inside bezel would be black then, w/ the mesh gold.
winkin%20and%20blinkin_zpsjjyw7clg.jpg


By doing it this way, the very outside edge of the bezel will still maintain it's sharpness, and since I'm sanding the leather it will kinda round over to that edge by sealing it, then painting it, I think it'll blend the raw edge, but still leave two distinct edges exposed (the leather, and the metal)

I'm gonna go and do this w/ a piece of scrap 1/8" steel, and a little piece of leather as a test, and I'll see if i like it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
  • Sponsors (?)


An Idle mind is the Devil's playground.

Well at least that's how the Google search worded it.

I'm sitting here contemplating as to whether I should attempt covering Winkin' and Blinkin'.

The real hard part would be turning the stuff, down into the bezels where the mesh is and getting it to stick well enough w/o getting that damn spray glue all over the mesh. One path I've contemplated has been to paint the mesh first, let it thoroughly dry, mask it off, then spray that glue in the center first and force the leather down to the mesh edge. I'd take an XActo knife and trim the excess off at the mesh.

The other way just popped into my head, and I did a few quick searches to see if it could be done, and look decent. (follow me here)

I trim the leather edge at the top of the bevel. Cut it clean, then do a thing called burnishing the leather edge (sanding) dyeing it black, then sealing it. The inside bezel would be black then, w/ the mesh gold.
winkin%20and%20blinkin_zpsjjyw7clg.jpg


By doing it this way, the very outside edge of the bezel will still maintain it's sharpness, and since I'm sanding the leather it will kinda round over to that edge by sealing it, then painting it, I think it'll blend the raw edge, but still leave two distinct edges exposed (the leather, and the metal)

I'm gonna go and do this w/ a piece of scrap 1/8" steel, and a little piece of leather as a test, and I'll see if i like it.


I don't know if I've seen that process done, but it sounds neat. I'd be interested in seeing it. If it doesn't yield the look you are after, maybe you can turn the edge under and stich a "hem" to finish the edge and glue it down, maybe? Isn't that how the Italians do it?
 
I don't know if I've seen that process done, but it sounds neat. I'd be interested in seeing it. If it doesn't yield the look you are after, maybe you can turn the edge under and stich a "hem" to finish the edge and glue it down, maybe? Isn't that how the Italians do it?

I'm concerned that I can't do what I need to do. Burnishing the edges seemed like a cheesy way to solve the problem.

This is the scrap piece that has the burnished edge. The actual metal edge isn't as smooth as the ones it would be up against should I decide to do it this way, but it could work.

70622AD4-C8FF-4D69-8462-26C58510A2DA_zpshy6o8xpb.jpg

The leather sucks up the black paint. There is still a visible divider between the leather and the metal, but again,....it could work.
 
I dont know that that look would give you the "finish" the rest of your interior will have. What if you put a piece of painted stainless trim over it once its done like that?
Too hard to do. Tommorrow is Monday, The mesh is already painted, (Chose to paint it a "darker" color) I'll find an upholsterer and see what they can do with the wrap.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I'm concerned that I can't do what I need to do. Burnishing the edges seemed like a cheesy way to solve the problem.

This is the scrap piece that has the burnished edge. The actual metal edge isn't as smooth as the ones it would be up against should I decide to do it this way, but it could work.

70622AD4-C8FF-4D69-8462-26C58510A2DA_zpshy6o8xpb.jpg

The leather sucks up the black paint. There is still a visible divider between the leather and the metal, but again,....it could work.

Eh, I still think stitching a seam there so the edge of the leather rolls under will be a better look. Mike, look at some pictures of ferarri interior. Those guys are masters at leather work. I think it could help you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Imagine going to work, and having to scale a 30' high wall everytime you went. I'd guess you'd agree with me that it would be a real pain in the ass, and you'd avoid going if you could. When you did go, there'd always be that stinkin' obstacle standing in your way.

I've got one of those walls in my garage. It's door glass alignment on a 67 vert. And we're only days away from the Stanley Cup playoffs starting. Hockey is so much better than getting my butt kicked by door glass.
 
Eh, I still think stitching a seam there so the edge of the leather rolls under will be a better look. Mike, look at some pictures of ferarri interior. Those guys are masters at leather work. I think it could help you.

If there is any stitching ala' Ferrarri to be done, it'll have to be done by somebody else. I think I'm gonna take them down the street and see if they'd be able to do it.
I've got one of those walls in my garage. It's door glass alignment on a 67 vert. And we're only days away from the Stanley Cup playoffs starting. Hockey is so much better than getting my butt kicked by door glass.

I'll take door glass alignment for 800 Alex.

The dash gets its paint this afternoon. My wall is crumbling like the one in mother Russia.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
This day did not go like it was supposed to.

It started w/ me cutting up the leather to fit the various pieces that I wanted covered. I was hoping to have enough to cover the headliner, but alas the only way that could happen was if the thing was sewn together a piece at a time.

I decided to take the winkin and blinkin to a upholsterer, I should have them back in a week.

So far so good.

I go to my car audio guy, and buy the fuse holder for the 200A fuse that'll be my go between the alt, and my electronics. I mount that dude, and wire a big assed 0ga. cable from the bulk head fitting to that. Why I used such a big assed wire to essentially power the fuse block, C/A system and the ECU is beyond me, but it's done.
75416CD7-95D0-409C-97F2-0A5907EB5E08_zpslakxdlkp.jpg


After that, I mounted the AC evap. This time permanently.

Still, so far so good.

40819B72-416E-4AB8-8961-F60ACC7D658B_zpsonjeaivq.jpg


Then I decide that it's warm enough to paint the dash. I get out the new Summit Hot Rod black, get out a tiny assed touch up gun.

I should have taken the necessary precautions to control the water. I complained on another thread that I was getting water in the lines,.....you'd think I'd heed my own red flags.

Nope.

I start spraying the thing, and no sooner do I get the thing completely coated on the first coat, and it gets doused w/ water droplets everywhere.

I stop, and pour out almost a half qt of activated hotrod black paint. I clean the gun, When the dash was dry enough to handle, moved that pig inside.
5A8E43D4-094A-4A2D-8B92-BCEF84BA1388_zpsuhaqrzf2.jpg


Next, I move on to upholstering the dash top. It goes along easily enough, until I manage to spray some glue onto the leather.

I don't stress over it. I still work at getting the thing covered.

It all goes to hell when I try to wash off the glue w/ some thinner.

I'm pretty sure It's phkd.
CF18C049-D27F-418C-AA27-FF2BA2EA16A5_zpsgqcwrloh.jpg


I just went down there, it's still just as stained as it is in this pic. The headliner material that was left over just got re assigned.
 
Next, I move on to upholstering the dash top. It goes along easily enough, until I manage to spray some glue onto the leather.

I don't stress over it. I still work at getting the thing covered.

It all goes to hell when I try to wash off the glue w/ some thinner.

I'm pretty sure It's phkd.
CF18C049-D27F-418C-AA27-FF2BA2EA16A5_zpsgqcwrloh.jpg


I just went down there, it's still just as stained as it is in this pic. The headliner material that was left over just got re assigned.

You're not near as tightwad as I am. I'd spray more glue and thinner on the whole thing, and wash it more, and call it "really distressed" leather.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
You're not near as tightwad as I am. I'd spray more glue and thinner on the whole thing, and wash it more, and call it "really distressed" leather.

Don't think I haven't thought about it.

It's like a pair of jeans though.

They can be raggedy and all kinds of torn up and be "in style".
Get a big assed grease stain on on a brand new pair, and they're ruined.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Just in case you missed this from Hoopty's progress thread...

Answer to the water problem with air compressors...

Complex answer built out of odd parts I had laying around...
Intercooler between the compressor and tank - old auto A/C condenser. It cools the air and makes it easier for the water separator to spin the water out of the compressed air. The cooler air is, the less moisture it holds. Intercooler plumbing - connect one end to the compressor and the other end to a water separator with a drain valve in the bottom.

Remove the drain valve and connect tubing from it to a normally open solenoid valve. The valve closes when the motor is running. When the motor shuts off, the solenoid valve opens up and drains the water from the water separator. The air output of the water separator goes to the one way valve just before the 60 gallon tank that came with the air compressor. Does a great job of keeping water out of the tank and lines. It really does a good job. Don't skimp on the water separator - buy one intended for industrial use or a paint shop. The motor controller and solenoid require a little thought, but it isn't that complex.

This setup below isn't mine but it is the almost the same as far as the design goes. The only thing missing is the solenoid operated drain for the moisture separator.
See DIY Compressor Intercooler for the great results this has.
26449494001_large.jpg

26449494002_large.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I have been reading about sick Ford Six cylinders. It is too bad the smaller ones came with integrated manifolds.
Did you look into this company, and what did you think about their head and manifold etc?
Classic Inlines Performance Parts - Ford Inline Six Products
I know all about that head.

It cost 2 grand, the Intake, and the exhaust are still on the same side of the head w/ the intake directly over the exhaust.
As far as a I-6 goes, w/o that head, and /or one like I have, the engine won't fall out of a tree. Even w/ one of those heads a properly prepped 250 will barely make 200 HP N/A. There really is not enough exhaust port flow to amount to much. The engine needs a wheezer.

Now, port the heads, put a fairly aggressive solid roller like I have inside, move the intake away from the hot assed exhaust, get rid of the parasitic drag of a cam driven oil pump and distributor, use an electric W/P , and throw a 60 mm turbo on it, and it'll make 450-500. That's still not what has me excited about the combo though. The other 250's that are out there that are turbo'd make big block torque. Like 500-600 ft lbs. worth, at 2500 rpm through the power band.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
By the way, I'm stealing your quick reference link idea that you have in the first post. I can't remember how many times I've spent way too much time scouring my thread for a certain picture.
Hows that going for ya?.. Just thought I'd ck back w/ you on that.

It's a ton of work, combing through thousands of posts to sift out the relevant stuff from the blather.I have sat for hours w/ two tabs open, copying and pasting. You got twice the page count that I have,....good luck with it.
 
I was gonna repaint the dash today, but thought better of it. Although I had bought those little orange water filters that screw into the gun, I still wasn't seeing the forest for the trees. The real problem at hand was my weak-assed compressor line system. I had been trying to get by, but water would start spitting out of the exhaust of any air tool after 10 minutes of usage. So after a recommendation from a friend, decided that today was the day to fix it.

Off to Home Depot I go.

Returning w/ 61.00 worth of various pieces and parts to make a "manifold type" system where there are multiple risers w/ water taps at the bottom of those risers.

It looks like this when done:
E0CF9C15-55A8-465B-973F-75B49FCB25F6_zpspn03q7zz.jpg


It killed the day to the tune of about 5 hours, but I believe that it'll work (as long as the PVC lasts at least) There is a little over 50' of vertical rise in the system now, in the space of 32" w/ three drain spigots, and the regulator, w/ it's drain right before the hose reel. In testing the hot air manages to dissipate by the third rise (by touching the risers) so by the time it gets to the hose reel is has cooled to ambient. As the friend recommended, I intend to crack the ball valves just enough to hiss so that water will not be able to make it to the regulator, and any that does will hopefully pool in that reservoir.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
I have the same Home Depot compressor except for the intercooler setup that I described in the previous post.
It works really well, and if you current improvement doesn't work to your satisfaction, I highly recommend it.

I have been told not to use PVC pipe for air lines because if it gets hit hard, it tends to shatter like a grenade. I hope that I am wrong about that...

Edit: I found that PVC is definitely not recommended...
See Google for more information.
 
Last edited:
Uh oh. I need to re-plumb all of my air lines in the garage too.

Copper is expensive, Black iron is a pain, looks like nylon tubing is the way to go!
for however how long it lasts, and as long as you're not in the blast radius when one of the lines fractures and sends PVC shardlets spraying throughout the garage, The :poo: worked for me.:nice:
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Status
Not open for further replies.