Progress Thread Nasty Ninety Notch

joetrainer31 · Mar 24, 2015

FoxMustangLvr said:
I guess it comes down to if he's happy with worked E7's then it's a non issue. But 12's might be reaching a little unless you have some serious traction but cornering seems to be a bit more important since you've mentioned that a couple times. Do you want to go fast in a straight line or handle in turns? What works for one conflicts with the other typically.

Yes, good points & questions. I might simply need to make due with worked E7s because of budget and time. I have no doubt they will run well. I've seen plenty of dyno pulls & ets reflecting the number I'm giving. Also, our head guy has been doing this for 30 years. Even if I hit low 13s on the street, I'm good. They first Viper only did a 13 sec 1/4 mile! (if memory serves)

So, do I want to go fast in a straight line or in corners? Yes! I know there is always a trade off though. The plan is to lighten the car and stiffen the suspension in the right places so that it becomes a better overall version of itself. Does that make sense? Less weight (in the right places) means that it does all of its' jobs better.

A5literMan · Mar 24, 2015

I'm not a fan of the worked e7's but your premise is correct. You can run a low 13 with some descent tires. A stock notch was capable of low 14's to high 13's with a track tire. If you're going to run s regular speed rated tire you might see mid 13's with your mods. Some worked e7's should make gt40 head power numbers with a well thought out package. My only thought is why not buy some used aluminums? We are talking around 6-800$ to purchase and maybe a total investment of 1k maximum (with new ones going for 1200!). I understand and respect the fact you're on a budget but imo the worst area to cost cut is the heads. You will easily leave an extra 40-70 rwhp on the table. Which would easily equate to at least 1/2 sec in ET and a all around better package

mikestang63 · Mar 24, 2015

Please do not take this as bashing- if it were me and I was on a budget- I would get a set of used GT40 explorer heads as a base and have those ported, or just buy a set of already machined, assembled heads for about $400 and they will flow about as well as the worked E7's. The only guys I see sticking with E7's are for a trophy stock class or such as for $600 you are spending more than for a decent set of GT40's.

If it were really me, I'd brown bag it for a few weeks, save up the extra money and buy a set of TFS or AFR heads and do it once. I do understand the money issue. It would be around 30-50hp difference and take about 40lbs off the nose. FWIW, you can find deals out there if you are patient. I agree- I would not buy used heads unless I could touch them and have them checked out.

Hope this is taken the way it is meant- trying to help. Good luck whichever way you go

FoxMustangLvr · Mar 24, 2015

joetrainer31 said:
Yes, good points & questions. I might simply need to make due with worked E7s because of budget and time. I have no doubt they will run well. I've seen plenty of dyno pulls & ets reflecting the number I'm giving. Also, our head guy has been doing this for 30 years. Even if I hit low 13s on the street, I'm good. They first Viper only did a 13 sec 1/4 mile! (if memory serves)

So, do I want to go fast in a straight line or in corners? Yes! I know there is always a trade off though. The plan is to lighten the car and stiffen the suspension in the right places so that it becomes a better overall version of itself. Does that make sense? Less weight (in the right places) means that it does all of its' jobs better.

The worked E7's will add some fun to what you're wanting to do and you could just always add boost to it down the road and you'll have a big smile on your face as you keep replacing rear tires
:burnout:

For a multipurpose type car the 10 adjustable shocks are the way to go so you can stiffen up for the street and soften up for the strip. There are a few other things you can do to help it go from corner carver to strip performer with only a few adjustments. @A5literMan would know better than me honestly but this is what I think off the top of my head

Adjustable shocks
adjustable ride height (your coil overs up front should be adjustable height, rear adjustable control arms)
get some sticky drag radials, this is where adjustable height control arms come into play. Make sure the roads are dry!
unbolt your front sway bar at the track, reconnect it before driving home

joetrainer31 · Mar 24, 2015

A5literMan said:
I'm not a fan of the worked e7's but your premise is correct. You can run a low 13 with some descent tires. A stock notch was capable of low 14's to high 13's with a track tire. If you're going to run s regular speed rated tire you might see mid 13's with your mods. Some worked e7's should make gt40 head power numbers with a well thought out package. My only thought is why not buy some used aluminums? We are talking around 6-800$ to purchase and maybe a total investment of 1k maximum (with new ones going for 1200!). I understand and respect the fact you're on a budget but imo the worst area to cost cut is the heads. You will easily leave an extra 40-70 rwhp on the table. Which would easily equate to at least 1/2 sec in ET and a all around better package

I cannot argue w/you over the advantage of aluminum heads. I'm not wanting used aluminum heads though. Its too risky. If I get new heads they will also need to be smog legal for CA. That means Twisted Wedge or AFR165s. Both of those are really expensive; certainly more than $600. If yall would like to contribute some cash to an aluminum head fund I'll take it! =p Other than that, it might be a necessary limitation.

As far as my combo goes; vehicle weight loss (85-100lbs up front), Explorer upper/lower, stock pulleys (no issues in 105 degree heat), 70mm TB, 75mm MAF, full exhaust, tune, better flowing heads, 24lbs inj, 155lph pump, slightly higher compression, 306cid, Energy Suspension throughout, full length subframes, upper/lower rear control arms, 355 gears, drag lites, can't remember anything else.

FoxMustangLvr · Mar 24, 2015

joetrainer31 said:
I cannot argue w/you over the advantage of aluminum heads. I'm not wanting used aluminum heads though. Its too risky. If I get new heads they will also need to be smog legal for CA. That means Twisted Wedge or AFR165s. Both of those are really expensive; certainly more than $600. If yall would like to contribute some cash to an aluminum head fund I'll take it! =p Other than that, it might be a necessary limitation.

As far as my combo goes; vehicle weight loss (85-100lbs up front), Explorer upper/lower, stock pulleys (no issues in 105 degree heat), 70mm TB, 75mm MAF, full exhaust, tune, better flowing heads, 24lbs inj, 155lph pump, slightly higher compression, 306cid, Energy Suspension throughout, full length subframes, upper/lower rear control arms, 355 gears, drag lites, can't remember anything else.

That's a fun combo right there^^^ What means of tuning are you going to do?

joetrainer31 · Mar 24, 2015

FoxMustangLvr said:
That's a fun combo right there^^^ What means of tuning are you going to do?

I found a happy medium in Bama Tunes. They did me right w/my 351 conversion on my 95GT. Their price was reasonable, and I can have it re-tuned whenever for free.

I forgot, I'll also have an electric fan in the build.

joetrainer31 · Mar 24, 2015

FWIW, I also forgot that it will have 1.7 Crane RRs.

FoxMustangLvr · Mar 24, 2015

What cam? Staying stock?

joetrainer31 · Mar 24, 2015

FoxMustangLvr said:
What cam? Staying stock?

Yes. I had an E303 in my 351. It is smog legal, but I had to go to 3 shops before anyone would bother with my car. They heard the "thump," and just turned me away. I don't need that hastle at my age. Besides, I like the off idle torque better in the stock cam than the letter cams anyhow.

Again, i'm leaving horse power on the table, but I'm willing to do it in this instance; for the above mentioned as well as for the mileage and predictability of the stock cam. Furthermore, my lighter weight plan makes the stock parts more effective. Just my thought process on the build.

joetrainer31 · Mar 24, 2015

Just ordered the hood today...

I wanted to stay stock, but we found a crack and a bend in the stock hood. Got this light weight hood for $225 + shipping.

mikestang63 · Mar 25, 2015

joetrainer31 said:
Just ordered the hood today...

I wanted to stay stock, but we found a crack and a bend in the stock hood. Got this light weight hood for $225 + shipping.

Please tell me that is not a Cincinnati Composite or ABC Exclusive hood.

FoxMustangLvr · Mar 25, 2015

mikestang63 said:
Please tell me that is not a Cincinnati Composite or ABC Exclusive hood.

Are those manufacturers making weak hoods that become airborne at 75 mph?

joetrainer31 · Mar 25, 2015

mikestang63 said:
Please tell me that is not a Cincinnati Composite or ABC Exclusive hood.

Here: 1987-1993 Ford Mustang Duraflex Cowl Hood - 1 Piece : Duraflex Body

FoxMustangLvr · Mar 25, 2015

joetrainer31 said:
Here: 1987-1993 Ford Mustang Duraflex Cowl Hood - 1 Piece : Duraflex Body

Product description doesn't say how tall the cowl is. Picture shows what looks to maybe be a 2.5" to 3" cowl hood IMO. I would use hood pins.

joetrainer31 · Mar 25, 2015

FoxMustangLvr said:
Product description doesn't say how tall the cowl is. Picture shows what looks to maybe be a 2.5" to 3" cowl hood IMO. I would use hood pins.

Yea, I noticed that. I also noticed that the red hood looks like 3", but the unpainted hood looks more like 2". I called the warehouse to inquire. They said it was 3". That's bigger than I wanted, but considering the need, time frame, and price, I just took it.

FoxMustangLvr · Mar 25, 2015

2.5" - 3" cowl hoods like the one you're getting look tough and compliment our foxes the best IMO.

Hope it lines up with everything nicely without too much work for you. Please post some pictures of it's out of the box fitment on your car before you start messing with it so we can get an idea of fitment quality for this company.

joetrainer31 · Mar 25, 2015

FoxMustangLvr said:
2.5" - 3" cowl hoods like the one you're getting look tough and compliment our foxes the best IMO.

Hope it lines up with everything nicely without too much work for you. Please post some pictures of it's out of the box fitment on your car before you start messing with it so we can get an idea of fitment quality for this company.

Ok. Will do. Gotta get picks of the K-member/A-arm/Coil over set up, and rear control arms too. I'll reserve judgment on the cowl until I see it. Its been about 8 years since I owned a fox anyhow.