Top End Upgrade??

[billbosc]

Yea I've done that a couple times over. But the first time I filled it and let it run and filled it and all that was all that has been needed. Level is still topped off. And the temp gauge barely moves now. I've ripped it around a little bit here and there to see if I could get it to dump noticeable exhaust again but nope. Idk what happened or how it happened. But everything is doin fine now. I am checking it every time k drive it and keep expecting to see the water gone. I look all over the ground where it parks and no marks. It's really odd and idk what happened but doesn't seem to be a problem now. Just have to keep an eye on it.


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[02 281 GT]

Let me put on my Columbo trenchcoat for a second

1. Did the car overheat before you took it to this shop
2. Did the car overheat after you picked it up from the shop
3. Was the radiator cap and overfill cap on tight and properly when you checked them after it overheated.

Leaks are not alway readily visible. I would rent a free leak checker and a coolant exhaust check test kit for peace of mind at this point. The shop is going to disavow any liability of course. There is no reason for them to fiddle with the radiator cap. If the fluid was low, they would only add to the overflow.

You forgot the "Oh, uh... one more thing..."

 

[billbosc]

The car did overheat a little when I took to shop. (So problem was already there probably) caps were on tight. It over heated after the shop also.

And today
So I took the car on errands and through town and arcata. Runs great. Water temp doesn't go above 140. Which to me seems low but whayevrr. When I got back off airport road on to central on the straight strip I ripped it. Tach to 62 in first and 6k in second looked in mirtor and seen the exhaist. Not a lot. But niticable white exhaust. Temp stayed down. Get home and I smell a little bit of oil like a oil burning on sonwthing hot.

That's where I'm at with it. Leak checking is next on the list. I looked at everything I could to pinpoint the leak but i don't notice anything myself.


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[89oem]

Youre fine then, keep an eye on it, oil smell is just a hot motor and maybe leaky valve cover, or oil through the PCV.

6200 rpm and no break up? Its been tuned for your SC.

 

[90lxwhite]

Youre fine then, keep an eye on it, oil smell is just a hot motor and maybe leaky valve cover, or oil through the PCV.

6200 rpm and no break up? Its been tuned for your SC.

Maybe not, his tach could be off. Before I was tuned for the suoercharger I wasn't getting enough fuel and it smelled and the exhaust was as described by the op.

 

[89oem]

hmm, ok either way 6200 is pretty high for 1st gear in my book, mine always capped power at 5 max.

 

[billbosc]

It is running fairly smooth. Aside from some idle surging when pulling up to a stop sign or light. It kind of acts like it's going to die out but picks back up and drops. Only does it sometimes. And as for the tach being idk. I know the speedo is way off. Doing 120 when I'm really doing 80 lol. I
Need to check the gears and get a new speedo gear obviously. Whatver was being done to this car was being done either slowly and right or quickly and wrong. Tweaker or mechanic? Idk. Who knows. It is fun though when it's not wet outside


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[billbosc]

@90lxwhite I would not be surprised if this is the case. Yours was dyno tuned or was it a remote tune or whatever they call it. Where they build the tune on the chip and mail it to U or whatever


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[90lxwhite]

@90lxwhite I would not be surprised if this is the case. Yours was dyno tuned or was it a remote tune or whatever they call it. Where they build the tune on the chip and mail it to U or whatever


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Dyno tuned. Mine was also running a little hotter after the supercharger before the tune due the lean condition. (The fan settings remained the same from previous tune and the temp went down) It was so lean that the 1st pull made 241 hp. After tuning it made 332. The tune previous to having the supercharger made 223.

 

[billbosc]

Oh nice. Dang that's over 100 hp. They really do that much huh


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[90lxwhite]

Oh nice. Dang that's over 100 hp. They really do that much huh


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Sure enough. I'm also using the fmu, 19 # injectors, and inline fuel pump. If you think you'll stay with the stock topend awhile and just want/need a tune, you'll be fine with the fmu. But if I was gonna do a new topend with a supercharger, I'd get larger injectors and a new maf. The first thing I'd do is peek at the ecu and see if you see a chip plugged in so you'd know if it has been tuned before. I'm guessing it hasn't due to the fact that it's an older trim and it has an fmu. I say this because it seems like the majority of people don't believe a tune is necessary w an fmu or that a car can even be tuned that is using an fmu. Neither are the case. Before you do any tuning you need to address the "trouble codes" first. Whichever way you go, remote or dyno, you wanna make sure the motor is in good running order and all the "bugs" are worked out before you have er dialed in.
*Edit* If I was pretty sure that I was going to get a new topend in the near future, say like a month or two, I'd hold off on the tuning until the topend was on. If I didn't think I was going to get a new topend anytime soon I'd fix the trouble codes and then get a tune. You don't wanna be driving around too long and beating on it too much if it's running lean.

 

[A5literMan]

I will almost gaurantee that it's on the lean side. All the symptoms of a lean situation. The smell and exhaust are signals of this. You keep romping on it in that condition and you will definitely blow the head gasket or blow a hole into the piston. Address the codes before you do anything else. A new topend/tune or anything else needs to come after having a properly running motor.

 

[billbosc]

Ok. I'm gonna get on te codes. I have no reason to even drive it until it's fixed anyway.


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[90lxwhite]

I will almost gaurantee that it's on the lean side. All the symptoms of a lean situation. The smell and exhaust are signals of this. You keep romping on it in that condition and you will definitely blow the head gasket or blow a hole into the piston. Address the codes before you do anything else. A new topend/tune or anything else needs to come after having a properly running motor.

Sure enough. I'm also using the fmu, 19 # injectors, and inline fuel pump. If you think you'll stay with the stock topend awhile and just want/need a tune, you'll be fine with the fmu. But if I was gonna do a new topend with a supercharger, I'd get larger injectors and a new maf. The first thing I'd do is peek at the ecu and see if you see a chip plugged in so you'd know if it has been tuned before. I'm guessing it hasn't due to the fact that it's an older trim and it has an fmu. I say this because it seems like the majority of people don't believe a tune is necessary w an fmu or that a car can even be tuned that is using an fmu. Neither are the case. Before you do any tuning you need to address the "trouble codes" first. Whichever way you go, remote or dyno, you wanna make sure the motor is in good running order and all the "bugs" are worked out before you have er dialed in.
*Edit* If I was pretty sure that I was going to get a new topend in the near future, say like a month or two, I'd hold off on the tuning until the topend was on. If I didn't think I was going to get a new topend anytime soon I'd fix the trouble codes and then get a tune. You don't wanna be driving around too long and beating on it too much if it's running lean.

That's what he said

 

[billbosc]

Okay... Update... After a long debate with myself about dumping money into the top end without trulyknowing what has been done to the top end or the bottom.... Ive decided to order a new 302 bottom and build a new enging from the ground up.... im heavily leaning toward the boss 302 due in large part to my friend telling me the boss is the boss!! lol. I dont know a lot of the history of it. but i know its great. i want to stick with the 302. any input on any of this? from anyone? Gonna pull the trigger tonight on the boss unless someone talks me out of it.

 

[billbosc]

and is there anywhere that has the lower built already? lol. so i can add the trickflow top and be done

 

[Gearbanger 101]

You sound really eager to throw money around. I'd reign it in a little bit if I were you, take a breath and start doing some research before plopping down any cash. You'll make a BIG mistake getting impulsive at this point.

I don't recall....have you stated your goals for the car? The type of driving you plan on doing? Track times you're hoping to achieve? Horsepower you want to make?

If you're unsure of any of the above, then don't spend a dime.

 

[billbosc]

My goal is regular driver/not often just fun. Hp I would like to clear 450.


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[A5literMan]

450 @ the wheels or flywheel hp? If you just want a fun street car and keep hp under 450 rwhp you can do so with a stock block type build. If you want more than that(and truly know you're going over that) then you'll need an aftermarket block like a boss or dart machinery. I prefer the dart over the boss mainly because the boss has shorter cylinder walls. If building another engine go with a stroker combo(331-347-363). You really need to do some research before spending your money. A good combo will cost around 12k not counting the necessary accessories to go along with this type of build. You'll easily drop 15k. Now if you just want to rebuild a 302 and reuse some of the internals(crank/rods) and throw a good topend together it'll cost 1/2 that much. You will be limited to around 450-500rwhp level due to the fragility of the block. A dart block is good to twice that fwiw

 

[Gearbanger 101]

My goal is regular driver/not often just fun. Hp I would like to clear 450.


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Are you saying 450hp because you think that's a nice round number, or is that because you've got a particular track time you're trying to achieve?

I'm not trying to be a d!ck, it's just that I don't think most new guys to the car world realize how fast 450hp will get you in a mustang, or how much it's gonna cost you. You hear all too often these kids with their Civics quoting 350-400-500hp+ figures from their bolt on turbo kits or 2JZ swaps....in reality, most of them are barely cracking 250-300hp.

Just for reference sake, 300hp in a mustang will land you comfortably into the 12's and is cake. Easily achievable with bolt on parts. Making 400hp will get you well into the 11's and is going to require a complete top end and/or some form of power adder. Count on spending at least 6-8K after all is said and done. With the right supporting parts and weight reduction 450hp has you in a 10-second car....but count on sinking $10k+ into the build MINIMUM. Remember....it's not just about adding power to the engine. Now you've got to build a drivetrain, suspension, cooling, ignition, fuel system, etc to support it. And for reference sake.....99% of the backward hat, tattoo'd sleeve, gold plated bicycle chain sporting, low slung pant wearing guys at the local car show that brag about owning a 10-second car, haven't got a clue and have likely never been out of the 13's....I don't care what some Fast and Furious franchise said.

Non of the above require a Boss block. Take any advice a friend telling you that "the boss is the boss" has and do the opposite. He hasn't clue what he's talking about and is most likely going to waste your money and most certainly going to get you in over your head....both skill and budget wise.

I personally love the big dreamers. I can always count on these guys to start out strong and get half way though a project when the realize that they've either run themselves out of talent, or money.....or both. That's when I come in and scoop it up for a song, because they're sick of looking at their car on jack stands. Its much easier and cheaper to finish someone else's project, than start your own.....so keep that in mind when you set your goals.

So, with all that in mind, I've got to ask you again.....are you saying 450hp because you think that's a nice round number, or is that because you've got a particular track time you're trying to achieve?