Build Thread My C I P (continuous Improvement Program) Thread

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So I ran a 16 gauge wire from the battery to one of the screws holding the solenoid up, about 10 starts or so so far and, knock on wood, not a problem. Gotta scrounge up two more 1/4-20 bolts for the hood catch, put the gas door back on, and clear all the extra crap out of the interior and shes back on the road.
 
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So I ran a 16 gauge wire from the battery to one of the screws holding the solenoid up, about 10 starts or so so far and, knock on wood, not a problem. Gotta scrounge up two more 1/4-20 bolts for the hood catch, put the gas door back on, and clear all the extra crap out of the interior and shes back on the road.

the bill is in the mail Chuck..lol Glad it helped.
 
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well, starter still works, and after a bit of hassle with the safety catch and having to bleed the brakes (again :rolleyes:) i took it on a little drive around the neighborhood. went ok, but there's still problems:

1) the power steering howls like a wolf at moon. probably just need to bleed it, should be easy fix.

2) something in the rear started howling after about a mile (made about a three mile loop), got louder as i went.

3) throttle body whistles over about 50% throttle on a stab. was not expecting that from an accufab, though it sounds more like it's just taking a big gulp than whistling dixie like the bbk. not a big deal.

4) i got used to driving the coyote and went to shift it into 6th, forgetting that the was no 6th and ground the hell out of reverse :dammit:

the noise from the rear disturbs me the most, so ill jack it up tomorrow and make sure its not something simple, but with my luck i'll have to reset the gears again.
 
so...updates.

1) as suspected, steering just needed a bleed/fill. its as quite as a ford p/s system of this era can be (stock pump too)

2) apparently i setup the preload on the carrier bearings way wrong (about .100" short wrong , yikes), just missed putting one shim in somehow. somehow backlash was still .012-,014". redid it, and put the big s-sping back in the t-lok (had put the stock spring back in and had no lock just turning the wheels by hand. all fixed now.

3) t/b still whistles on a stab, kinda annoying actually, dunno if i just set it up wrong or :shrug:

new issue popped up though.

did 2x ~2mile laps around the neighborhood, and halfway thru the second lap an intermittent squeaking starting coming from somewhere in front of the dash. thought it might be the throwout bearing (used the mcleod one, have heard questionable things about any aftermarket ones so was first suspect). but it doesnt stop with the clutch in, and only occurs with the car moving, in gear or not. it also got more and more steady as it went. really, really hope its not the trans and its just something simple.
 
took the car to work today (finally), came home, and swapped these on:
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took it for a drive, and i'll just say that next time, i'm going radial. they're balanced fine and i didnt have any problems, but they are a bit floaty. should launch pretty good though.

supposed to rain its ass off the next two days, but saturday is a long track day (opens at 10am for tnt/jr. drag, and then they moved friday's midnight madness to saturday cause of the forecast, so should be running till about 1am if its like 2 weeks ago). hoping it runs as fast or faster than the coyote, at the very least it will stick better.
 
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took the car to work today (finally), came home, and swapped these on:
20150401_183000.jpg
20150401_183013.jpg
20150401_184728.jpg


took it for a drive, and i'll just say that next time, i'm going radial. they're balanced fine and i didnt have any problems, but they are a bit floaty. should launch pretty good though.

supposed to rain its ass off the next two days, but saturday is a long track day (opens at 10am for tnt/jr. drag, and then they moved friday's midnight madness to saturday cause of the forecast, so should be running till about 1am if its like 2 weeks ago). hoping it runs as fast or faster than the coyote, at the very least it will stick better.
Yeah they float around pretty good. Make sure you do a good burnout and start around 13-15# pressure at the track. Should hook really well. I'd start off at 4500rpm launch and see what they do. If not to concerened about breaking you can go up from there. I would expect somewhere around 12.2-12.50's. It's a lot harder to get a radial to hook with a manual. I still could t get mine to with Nitto's(which obviously isn't the best radial).
 
Well that 12.85 stands as my best pass. I missed 2nd twice after that (one on a 1.69 60'), and it threw out the air injection hole plug on the back of the passenger side head. It looks like the 60'mark may be when I'm shifting to 2nd, because i noticed that it was getting slower as i was getting slower at shiftibg to secind. Didn't have problems with any other gear.

My mph was also damn consistent at 106 to 107 whether i fubared the launch, missed 2nd, etc. Had shift set between 5500 and 6000 and it lit up in 4th right before the line every time. I guess its just out of rpm by then.
 
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4000-4500 dumping the clutch seemed to work pretty good, 3000 bogged a bit, 60's right in the 1.7 range. shifter is a pro 5.0, came with the trans.

i made 8 passes total, the 12.85 was the second one, and 2 12.9's and a 13.00 after i adjust the clutch higher to stop missing 2nd (which somehow i cannot get myself to powershift, maybe it just comes up too soon for me to react to it? dunno).
 
4000-4500 dumping the clutch seemed to work pretty good, 3000 bogged a bit, 60's right in the 1.7 range. shifter is a pro 5.0, came with the trans.

i made 8 passes total, the 12.85 was the second one, and 2 12.9's and a 13.00 after i adjust the clutch higher to stop missing 2nd (which somehow i cannot get myself to powershift, maybe it just comes up too soon for me to react to it? dunno).
You could sneak a shift light in there. One of those little led types. Hide it in a vent? Then just let it rip. I've had plenty of problems with 3rd over the years but haven't ever missed 2nd. Once you get everything adjusted and more seat time I still think you could hit 12.50's. You also could raise your launch rpm if your brave lol. I did 5500 once...the right rear axle shaft didn't like it(factory 28 splines). ;) But my 2 cars liked 4500 and ran the same 60's as you're doing now. Made lots of passes that way. So I don't know if the axle breakage was just due to the one time shock or from the repeated abuse and finally decided to let go. I'm going with some 31 spline Mosers now also.
 
i've got one of those autometer digital pro lights mounted on the a-pillar. i just gotta train myself to look at it instead of the factory tach which reads about 1000rpm high compared to the autometer. the autometer will at least show me the rev limiter at 6250.

i do want to get this thing tuned, see if i can pick up another few hp that way, and at least get a graph so i know where to shift. i'm also wondering if it would be worth it to swap the street heat intake to something that would shift the powerband up a little bit, since it doesn't pick anything up shifting higher in the rpm's (which it seems it needs to use those higher rpm's with the 4.10's and 26" tire).

may also look into getting an mgw for it, but dunno if a different shift will fix some of the "gateiness" problems i'm having.

i also have to re-learn where the clutch releases, the coyote's pedal travels about twice as far the fox with a huge deadzone before it actually starts grabbing the clutch, the fox i have adjusted to where the clutch is released almost at the top of travel but i've still been flooring and holding the damn thing. the clutch is also about twice as heavy as the coyote's (just a touch heavier than the kc i took out), so by the end of the day my left leg was getting a bit tired.

one other thing i'm for sure going to have to do sooner than later is put a better drivers seat in it. i swapped it to my original (and still almost perfect) passenger side seat, and with how hard it launches now combined with my weight (300+, gotta fix that sometime) the seatback already wants to move back, which i'm sure isnt helping my 1-2 shift. i've been debating a pair of corbeaus anyway, looks like i may just be getting them.
 
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So over the weekend i swapped out my parts store fpr that had pressure bouncing between 42 and 45psi with the vac off, for my kirban adjustable that had a hard time fitting with the egr valve. No fitment issues now with the egr gone, even was able to swap it with everything still together, and now pressure is a steady 39psi.
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Also found all the exhaust leaks (looks like both air injection plugs decided to say bye-bye, plugged em with a 5/8 bolt and locjk washer this time), and adjusted the stops on the pro5.0 shifter.

Another test-n-tune tomorrow night, and the first factory efi class race Saturday. Hopefully I can get some quick track-tuning done and be competitive, but the slowest winner last year still ran an 11.77. At least it's a heads up class though.

Also got some pics of it clean in both street and track setups.
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Still not thrilled with this tko, made about 10 passes and ended up scrapping half of them because the damn thing wouldnt get into second. 1st 3rd and 5th also seem like i can't fully engage them only sliding into gear about half as far as 2nd and 4th. Im thinking i may call libertys up next week and see about faceplating it, whether i send the whole thing there and let them di their thing, or just send individual gears I don't know.

On the good side, it did run a trio of 12.88s @ 106-107. I may need to back off the fuel pressure a bit, and i ended up locking the timing at 36. when setting up for auto advace it wouldn't increase plugging the spout back in by more than maybe 2 degrees, dont know what could be causing that.
 
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So 3 bits of news/updates:

1) was runner up in the factory efi class, which only happened because my opponent in the first round of eliminations broke second gear and i got a bye in the second (7 car field).

2) this tko shift issue SUCKS. Going to try pulling it tomorrow, inspect for worn parts (suspecting worn blocker rings and maybe a worn 2nd gear slider), and see about finding a set of carbon lined blockers. The faceplate idea looks like it would take too long, there's another class race Saturday. Even just putting new blockers may take too long, so I'm going to try to mount my prostar/et street setup on the coyote and use it as a backup points car.

3) car needs more power, especially in the upper rpms. shifting above 5500 makes my mph drop, and the car bogs on launch no matter what rpm i leave at (and im only doing 1.72x 60's dead hooking with no spin).
 
So 3 bits of news/updates:

1) was runner up in the factory efi class, which only happened because my opponent in the first round of eliminations broke second gear and i got a bye in the second (7 car field).

2) this tko shift issue SUCKS. Going to try pulling it tomorrow, inspect for worn parts (suspecting worn blocker rings and maybe a worn 2nd gear slider), and see about finding a set of carbon lined blockers. The faceplate idea looks like it would take too long, there's another class race Saturday. Even just putting new blockers may take too long, so I'm going to try to mount my prostar/et street setup on the coyote and use it as a backup points car.

3) car needs more power, especially in the upper rpms. shifting above 5500 makes my mph drop, and the car bogs on launch no matter what rpm i leave at (and im only doing 1.72x 60's dead hooking with no spin).
What's the highest rpm you've leaft at? Have you tried a 5-6k launch? Might break stuff but you should get some wheel speed high enough to get beyond a dead hook. curious why its not rpm'ing a little better. I always thought the TFS1 liked a 56-5800 rpm shift point. I know the e cam likes that range. Maybe a tune would help? If nothing else it sounds consistent.
 
wednesday i was launching at 4500-5000 and getting 1.72's, yesterday i was trying 5000-6000 (even left off the limiter once) and it still only did 1.7x. some of this i'm sure is the suspension, its all still setup for street duty and leaves fairly flat (b-springs, tockiko hp's, mm xd lca's), but it hooks apparently a little too good. i think some extra power, whether it be a tune, or a cam and intake change (thinkg tfs2 and a systemax) will help both the bogging and the top-end.

first thing i gotta address though is the trans. it wont powershift 2nd or 3rd, and half the time it wont go into 2nd at all. got it out and torn apart today, now i gotta find someone who carries parts for this thing so i can get it put back together this week. took pics, of course my phone's didnt want to focus today, and my digital camera is old and has a tiny screen, but hopefully its enough to make out.

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2nd gear and slider
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2nd gear engagement teeth

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2nd gear side of 1-2 slider
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so i at LEAST need a new 1-2 slider, 2nd gear, and maybe a 3-4 slider and 3rd gear (not sure on the 3rd stuff, its not as bad as 2nd but its still rounded off). also want to find some carbon-lined blockers for 2, 3, and 4 but havent been able to find those online at places i feel comfortable ordering from. tomorrow i'm going to call hanlon, libertys, and/or d&d (astro may be on the list too, they list a few tko-500 gears) and see what i can get when. at least this things easy to work on, once i had it out (which itself only took about 30-40 mins of work) it only took about 15-20 minutes to get the thing torn all the way down.
 
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so called astro today (they actually had parts listed online unlike others) and ordered $800+ worth of parts
1-2 synchro assembly
3-4 synchro
2nd gear
3rd gear
3 carbon blocker rings

so for those keeping count and comparing to new, this whole tko setup has now cost about $2600 for the trans, bell, pro-5.0 shifter, alum d/s, and new yoke, and the upgraded synchro's. i see most places advertise ~$2400 for just a basic tko500 plus the bell and upgrades, so i figure i'm still somewhat ahead, though not by much.
 
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