Brakes Master Cylinder Selection For Manual Brakes

[HotFox]

So i'm converting to 5 lug using 99-04 PBR fronts and 94-04 rear set up. I am using manual brakes it is just a aluminum plate that bolts to the fire wall it appears to use factory pedal pin location. Any one have a suggestion on the appropriate master cylinder? Using @Mustang5L5 chart to have the ratio between 13-17:1, the 15/16 cobra would be 19.07:1, the 1" cobra would be 16.74:1, 1 1/16" would be 14.84:1.

I have looked for someone using similar set up but could not find anything.

Any thoughts are appreciated!

Scott

 

[Stainless_Seal]

So i'm converting to 5 lug using 99-04 PBR fronts and 94-04 rear set up. I am using manual brakes it is just a aluminum plate that bolts to the fire wall it appears to use factory pedal pin location. Any one have a suggestion on the appropriate master cylinder? Using @Mustang5L5 chart to have the ratio between 13-17:1, the 15/16 cobra would be 19.07:1, the 1" cobra would be 16.74:1, 1 1/16" would be 14.84:1.

I have looked for someone using similar set up but could not find anything.

Any thoughts are appreciated!

Scott

Really couldn't tell u but just a thought the guys at cjpony parts has help he alot in the past few years give the a call maybe they could point u in the right direction good luck with the project

 

[Mustang5L5]

Manual brakes are a different beast. That chart I wrote up really refers to vacuum assisted brake that have the benefit of a booster. With manual brakes, you need to take advantage of leverage (by way of a relocated pedal pin) and mechanical advantage, by using a smaller bore MC to create a softer pedal to which you can actually press with your leg.

The VERY early 80's Mustang with manual brakes used a 7/8" bore MC, and a different pedal geometry.

You can't really use the OEM Mustang MC's that you list with a stock pedal and no booster. The result will be a VERY hard pedal.

Usually when it comes to manual brake setups, I defer to maximum motorsports and the purchase of one of their kits that does have a revised brake pedal for that extra leverage. They make the kits to work with a common SN95 brake masket cylinder. Downside is they are expensive.

I'd ask your end goals to want to swap to manual brakes? Unless you have space concerns (mod motor swap) or are road racing (more consistent pedal through RPM changes when downshifting) there really isn't a need for manual brakes and it just makes things more complete. A booster weighs 3 lbs maybe?

 

[Chuckman]

i think i just saw on corral lately of a guy going to manual brakes and used a manual brake ranger cylinder? might have to google it, but it HAS been done before, and for some reason thats the combo my brain is coming up with though i may b e completely wrong on that.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Manual brake ranger uses a 15/16" bore, same as 94-95 cobra.

Manual brakes have been done before, it's just a different method of sizing the master cylinder.

The op's proposed setup DID come oem on a mustang. The 99-04 v6 mustang used those brakes, with a 94-95 style booster and a 1.003" master cylinder. If the op retained a vacuum booster, I'd suggest the 1" 1993. Cobra mc and call it a day.

But swapping to manual brakes, you'll need a smaller bore mc for the mechanical advantage. However, go too small and the pedal will be too long for practical use. That's why manual brake cars have the brake pivot point higher on the arm to compensate for using a moderate size MC to avoid a long stroke

To do manual brakes properly, you really need the revised brake pedal arm. Finding a 79-84 mustang with manual brakes might be tough.

Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

 

[HotFox]

Ok Mike I think you have me talked out of the manual brakes. What would be a good booster and master cylinder for my set up?

If I read right your saying 94-95 booster with a 1" bore MC?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Correct. 1993 cobra MC is 1" bore and matches the factory mc used on the v6.

As for booster, 1993 cobra or 94-95 booster. Basically same thing except for stud pattern.


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[mikestang63]

Use the 1993 Cobra as it is a direct fit for the fox body, where the SN95 takes some elongation of the holes in the firewall and some ocassional messaging of the shock tower with a BFH.

 

[BMW Rider]

I'm going with manual brakes on my 79, it was originally manual brakes, so I all ready have the right pedal. I am converting to a manual transmission and got a pedal set for that from a boosted car and can confirm there is a difference in the brake pedal, so I'm reusing the original. It mounts in a different set of pivot holes on the bracket and has a longer distance from the pivot to the pin for more leverage and thus braking force. I'm going with a 15/16" Ranger MC for an 89 model. The main difference in the Ranger MC from the Cobra one is that the lines exit on the opposite side. Good if you want extra clearance to the busy engine side, bad if you want to reuse your old lines. I'm building all new lines for my car, so that is a non issue for me. A Ranger MC on a boosted setup might have clearance issues to the strut tower for the lines as the MC is further forward.

 

[HotFox]

Thanks guys!

93 Cobra master cylinder and booster ordered from Rockauto. Looks like im only out $27 on the booster core.

Scott