Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!

[TOOLOW91]

Oh, well FelPro didn't address that on their MLS gaskets...at least not when I bought mine about a year and a half ago.

My felpro rivets are no where near the deck where it seals around the cyl .


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[84Ttop]

My felpro rivets are no where near the deck where it seals around the cyl .


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate

Fancy pants race motors....lol

 

[TOOLOW91]

Fancy pants race motors....lol

Street car stuff just like you ! Lol


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[RacEoHolic330]

So the driver side was a breeze. Disconnected the header from the crossover, removed said header, removed valve cover, loosened each head bolt and re-torqued to 110ft-lbs one at a time. Everything was apart and back together in around an hour and a half. The passenger side was more of a hurricane and not so much a breeze. Taking apart all that junk just is not a whole lot of fun. I did manage to sneak the turbo and header out without needing to completely remove the downpipe. That saved a good amount of time. The one damn header bolt on the #2 primary put up a huge fight. There just isn't a lot of room in there to work with.

I got as far as torquing down the head, but that's it. Getting to that point took about 2 hours. It will have to wait until tomorrow to go back together completely. I then need to drain more of the coolant so I can remove half of the water pump without drenching the crossover pipe in coolant. I'm also going to change the oil. I'm not taking any risks this time with fuel contamination. The car did get a little rich at times when I was first trying to start it, so I feel better knowing there is fresh oil in there. Once all that is done, I can play with getting the timing all synced up.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Well, my car was chosen to be on display in the Towne Center area during a local cars and coffee event. That area is basically a large stamped concrete patio area typically filled with tables and chairs that they clear out to feature cars every month. I'm super excited to be featured in that exclusive area. There is just one issue. The event is this Sunday. That's enough to light a fire under my ass so I can get this thing done! Needless to say, I'll be very busy on Saturday.

 

[Detroiit]

Well, my car was chosen to be on display in the Towne Center area during a local cars and coffee event. That area is basically a large stamped concrete patio area typically filled with tables and chairs that they clear out to feature cars every month. I'm super excited to be featured in that exclusive area. There is just one issue. The event is this Sunday. That's enough to light a fire under my ass so I can get this thing done! Needless to say, I'll be very busy on Saturday.

You can do it!

 

[TOOLOW91]

If any car is worthy yours is the one


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[hoopty5.0]

 

[smkshw]

been reading this thread quietly in the background.....wow,what a beast is all i need to say!

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Thanks guys. I'm gonna try like hell to get everything in order for Sunday.

 

[A5literMan]

Very cool and congrats!!

 

[89oem]

Awesome honor! Dont rush the reassembly

 

[Noobz347]

Is it Sunday yet? If it doesn't start, you can use that team of cheerleaders from one of the other threads to pull it.

They'll look good in harnesses.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Awesome honor! Dont rush the reassembly

Too late for that. I was a little concerned that the car wouldn't rev past 2500 and wouldn't idle without my foot on the throttle. I marked the distributor real well before I removed it, so I know that had to be relatively close.

I don't actually remember checking the position of the crank when I mounted the flying magnet trigger wheel before I put the engine in. I rotated the engine to 20 degrees btdc. One of the magnets should be lined up with the pickup. It wasn't even close. Sure enough, I mounted the wheel one position off. That means that the crank timing was off about 30 degrees. Whoops! I pulled off the crank pulley and got that fixed. It should hopefully run much better when I start it in the next hour or two. You can see the marks on the wheel from the original mounting and where I mounted it the second time around.

 

[90lxcoupe]

Thatll do it. Make sure you verify the timing with a light when the rpm starts climbing too

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Yea, I'll make sure it's all synced up with the ecu. At least it should idle on its own now.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Or not... She isn't running the way she should. Something with the timing is definitely off. I tried unplugging the injector harness and seeing where the timing is during cranking, but it doesn't seem to crank fast enough for me to get a good reading. It's running very rich now. Not nearly like the first time I started it, but I'm afraid to run it much more and cause issues with the rings again. I can keep the engine going with my foot in it, but it's still not right. Terrible throttle response and it just sounds off to me. I'll have to give Kris a call Monday and pick his brain a little.

Now that I think about it. I set the crank trigger with the balancer at 20 degrees. The ignition reference angle in the ECU for the crank sensor is 50 degrees. After reading the setup on Holley's forums, I should be setting the trigger with the balancer at 50 degrees. That could be causing some of my issues. It does rev up now though, but it still might be off. It's confusing to me, because MSD's instructions say to set the trigger at whatever you want your idle timing to be. Holley's instructions are different, but their instructions are probably the ones I should be following.

 

[90lxcoupe]

The crank trigger magnet should be at 50* on the balancer for sure. Pull the plugs out and turn the motor over with the injector harness unplugged and check the timing, it should spin fast enough

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Good idea to do it with the plugs out. Didn't even think of that. I'll be messing with it later today.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

The plug out idea worked great. I actually wound up loosely screwing them in and leaving the wires connected to the plugs. I was getting tingles through my hand when I touch the distributor when the wires were not connected to the plugs.

I disabled the idle spark in the ignition settings to keep the timing steady and was able to read 22 degrees of timing while cranking. The ECU was set for 20 degrees. I'm at the top of the range for the crank trigger, so I can't reduce the timing any further. That hasn't changed from when the car was running, so there must have been that cranking timing discrepancy the whole time. I can reduce the cranking timing to 20 degrees, but it means taking the trigger wheel off again (for the third time) and clocking the wheel further down and then re-aligning the sensor.

Any harm in changing the ECU cranking timing to match the timing light? They obviously need to match, but can I take the easy way out and make the computer match what the car is doing instead of visa versa? I still need to synchronize the timing through the RPM range and adjust the inductive delay as necessary. I admittedly didn't pay enough attention when we got the car running for the first time at All Out. I was too busy worrying about the whole thing blowing up. I've definitely learned quite a bit these past 2 days about knowing what needs to be in order with the timing before firing the car up. I think this whole mess is sorted out now though, and I can fire the car back up again tomorrow. Everything should be where it needs to be to run properly. Should being the key word there.