Coming along! I would be very cautious on any type of epoxy! You see 1000-1500 psi on brake systems.
@NIKwoaC threaded his cap. I would try that first.
I am eliminating mine completely.
Scott
I'd be super aggravated about that paint issue . And that the key locks weren't removed . The handles should have been too but the design on the car you can work around them . Key locks in the door and paint leave a situation to chip easy later . The car is very clean none the less !
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
So after some more research and since I do not have the magical plug for the stock prop valve, I've decided this is the option I'm going to run.(I was able to build this kit at my local O'rielly's)
Brake Proportioning Valve Eliminator kit, 1987-93
I read all the threads arguing about if it's "safe" on a street car and tend to agree with those that the dual outlet MC offers the same protection in the event of a line failure/etc as the gutted stock valve.
These elimination will also clean up the engine bay a bit right there as well.
So now to thrash on the car all weekend and get it freaking running and driving again.
Give me a sec and I'll get pics up of how I did mine. It wasn't ideal, but it worked, and didn't require any drilling and tapping. I may redo it later for a slicker install, but right now I've got other fish to fry..It's simply amazing how much a wheel change affects the looks of a car.
The last item to solve is how to attach the rear soft lines brackets to the housing. I'm thinking about just drilling and tapping the holes to just be able to thread in the bolts and not have to jack with a nut on the back side.