351w Swap Help (headers)
- Thread starter powerstroke987
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squeak93
15 Year Member
i am using a stock k member flaming river steering shaft and a 9.5 deck height dart block, also with brodix .5 raised exhaust port heads. a T-5 trans for it with a stock bellhousing and figuring ill get a ministarter. im looking for bigger than 1 3/4 tubing for the headers too if possible i would like 1 7/8 inch. hat bbk headers did you use. My heads have 2.5 inch, 3 inch straight and 2 3/4 diagonal bolt patterns
@powerstroke987 join yellowbullet . Hit the newbie thread before you post anything and then ask there you are way more likely to get an answer over there on something like that combo . Or @84Ttop or @srtthis may have an idea
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
Ditch the stock K member.... contact @Sharad for a new UPR k member and alleviate a lot of the interference issues you are talking about. Is there a reason you require a stock k member? Kooks has a lot of options as far as primary tube size goes, be forewarned that they will hang low... Ask me how I know that. I have used Accufab headers as well in the past for swap like this and had decent success. Hooker makes a 2" primary 3.5" collector header for this application too but I can not attest to how well they do or don't fit.
What is the compression of the motor? Typically on the blower/turbo applications or N/A applications with compression 10:1 or lower a stock 93 mini starter will work just fine. If you have a higher compression motor I would recommend a power-master mini starter, best bet is to call them and talk about specifics. They have a few different options depending on the specifics of your build and can help you choose the appropriate starter the first time.
What is the compression of the motor? Typically on the blower/turbo applications or N/A applications with compression 10:1 or lower a stock 93 mini starter will work just fine. If you have a higher compression motor I would recommend a power-master mini starter, best bet is to call them and talk about specifics. They have a few different options depending on the specifics of your build and can help you choose the appropriate starter the first time.
i have the hookers 6228s for my new highport motor but im not sure how they fit with the brodix heads... you might need to order a set from kooks who seems to make a header for just about every header combo.
and +1 on calling @Sharad and getting a K member from him. so much more room to work at that point. we actually ran a stock mini starter from advance auto on the nitrous motor for a long time which was 450" and 14:1
and +1 on calling @Sharad and getting a K member from him. so much more room to work at that point. we actually ran a stock mini starter from advance auto on the nitrous motor for a long time which was 450" and 14:1
Sharad
ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
I had the hookers but they hit my firewall. (no issues with the UPR k-member, obviously) I ended up building custom headers for my 9.5" 351 with High Ports.
not sure if this is how i do this but @TOOLOW91 its a 427 with 13.5:1 compression main reason for keeping k-member is mostly money i have mostly new parts up there i had just replaced them all when i had a 5.0 with hci, and also for lack of funds i wanted to get the car running and driving again and then planned on doing a MMS front end complete kit coil over etc or similar by a competitor of theres.
I have a racecraft k-member, which i think is stronger than the other brands, especially in the motor mount pad area, but i was talking about MM motor mounts, i run those because i like their design better than the typical plate of bent steel and bolt, and for like $60 bucks you really cant bet them.
What did you do to get your sway bar away from the drain bolt? I'm having same issue in my 1989 swap project.
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