Looking To Wire My Fan To The Coil?

Tim Sisk

New Member
Apr 15, 2015
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Would like to write my fan to the coil temporary till car comes back from paint the coil is the only hot with key on right, I have a buddy that done this on his car and it works fine, but when I did it i had power on my ground from the fan, I have my 6al box wired into the coil and it all works fine, what now
 
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Ok I was looking to make fan come on when car is started and I don't have any power on the solenoid anywhere when the key is on,could I have the coil plug ins crossed
 
Ok I was looking to make fan come on when car is started and I don't have any power on the solenoid anywhere when the key is on,could I have the coil plug ins crossed

1. you do not want the fan to come on when the car is started and running all the time. It will drain your battery and you do not need the fan running at highway speed
2. You do not wire the fan directly without proper relays/fuses
3. You should wire the fan so that it turns on and off thermostatically controlled. . A cheap Hayden control setup can be bought for $30, although I prefer a Flex a Lite 33054 controller.

What E fan are you installing and how much CFM does it pull?
 
i agree with mike on this. wire the fan properly, and to a thermostat to avoid problems. however you can wire in an override switch that will turn the fan on when you want it on. i would also wire it so that when you turn the a/c on, the fan comes on as well.
 
If you don't have a high current alternator, you can forget about using an electric fan. The stock 65 amp alternator on 86-93 Mustangs isn't big enough to run the fan and the rest of the car. If you have a 94 or later Mustang, the stock 3g alternator should be fine if it is working correctly.

Switching a fan on and off manually is a bad idea. Too many guys have been distracted (hot girl kissing on their neck, too much to drink, dog tired and not thinking clearly) and cooked things because they forgot to flip the switch. An equal number have forgotten to turn the switch off for the same reasons and run down their battery.

The best fan controller available today is a DC Control unit. Welcome to Delta Current Control. Cost is about $???. Be prepared to wait 4 weeks or more to receive your controller once you have sent in your payment. The controllers are custom made in small lots and lead times can stretch out.

Next best is a SPAL controller - $70-$120 See http://www.spalusa.com/store/Main.aspx?html=pwmv3. eBay will have the controllers for a bargain price: do a Google search and see what you find.

At the bottom are the Hayden or Imperial controllers available through Advance Discount Auto Parts and AutoZone. The non adjustable one is about $30 ( Hayden 226206) and the adjustable one is about $60 (Hayden 226204). I recommend you do a Google search on Hayden and the part number for more info.

Do not use a simple on/off switch without using a relay. The current load can burn up the typical cheap automotive switch very quickly. The fan draws 30+amps and you need to use #10 wire on the fan power and ground wiring.

If you are good with electrical stuff (90% of the people here aren't), build your own controller. The numbers on the diagram (#86, #87, etc) refer to the numbers on the bottom of a typical automotive relay.

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Note that the temp sensor in the diagram needs to match the thermostat in your engine. The preferred arrangement is to have it open about 5 degrees above the thermostat.

To allow the ignition switch to control the fan so that it does not run when the ignition is off, connect the relay contact #86 to the red/green wire on the ignition coil or to the red/yellow wire on the coolant level sensor.

If you are an experienced electronics tech or electrical engineer, email me and I will send you the prototype drawings of a fan controller that is similar in function to the DC Control unit. It is a build it, troubleshoot it yourself item. I will not build or troubleshoot units, so it is not suitable for anyone who isn't really good with electronics.
See my post at http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...-sooo-much-amperage-help.859590/#post-8645840 to get the drawings and full details.

Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.

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