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#21
Also, I guess I should've mentioned. I'll be pulling the motor out in the winter because there's a few minor leaks, oilpan, rear main, valve covers, possibly lower intake... Just seems smarter to pull the motor, take the oilpan off to do the gasket, may as well replace the pump for insurance, and then everything else is just easier at that point as well to work on/change.
 

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#22
Good plan on yanking to address leaks. Yes the oil pump AND an ARP drive shaft are almost required when you do that. Do yourself a favor and buy head studs now vs bolts for their clamping ability. Worst case you over did it and don't need the clamping power. But if you're planning on a blower in the future they will be needed hardware.
 
#23
squeak93 said:
Good plan on yanking to address leaks. Yes the oil pump AND an ARP drive shaft are almost required when you do that. Do yourself a favor and buy head studs now vs bolts for their clamping ability. Worst case you over did it and don't need the clamping power. But if you're planning on a blower in the future they will be needed hardware.
Click to expand...
Definitely not doing a blower in the future. Again, this build is strictly a car just for fun, not trying to make it a fast dragster or nothing. I'm happy as is, cai, cat back exhaust, factory 3.08 gears, just wish it had a bit more power in the upper rpm. Hence I was thinking the 3.55 gears, off road h pipe and shorty headers, tb and maf, upper lower intakes and cam would make me happy, but I understand a cam without changing the heads isn't really doing much but the lopey idle sound(which I'm craving lol)
 
#24
Btrainfiveoh said:
S


Hey man, I live in Canada, BC. Gt40's aren't a dime a dozen here lol. And if someone has them on ebay, after exchange to canadian and shipping, they're like 6-700 canadian. After everything done and some cleanup and spring change they'll run me almost 1000. And tfs or afr heads out here are about 1500-2000 canadian after taxes. And again, I'm trying to go for a budget build to have fun, not build a 11-12 second drag car.
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@Gearbanger 101 Brian- hook this lad up will ya?
 
#25
Understood no blower in the future. Think of it this way, It's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it (head studs). But then again they are higher and arp head bolts will suffice for the task at hand.
 
#26
Well I did mine a few years ago for similiar reasons. I did clean up the heads a little(doubtful it made any power difference). Did the MAF,intake,TB,shorty headers and o/r h pipe w/Flowmaster cat back(some of these parts were already on the car) and added an E cam with an engine overhaul. I probably saw about 30rwhp improvement(1/4 mile et's 13.60's on my best pass). Is it worth it for the time/money/effort for just a cam change? Probably not but I couldn't afford heads at the time. I'm in a similiar situation with my trans(I need/want a TKO but am rebuilding the T5...again). If you have the money for some heads I highly recommend you add them to the project. If you want some more everyday power they are well worth the investment. I would just wait until you are pulling the motor for the gasket repairs,etc and do it all in one shot. You can slowly acquire all the parts needed(used/new doesn't matter). Good luck. Oh and btw welcome to Stangnet!
 
#27
He
A5literMan said:
Well I did mine a few years ago for similiar reasons. I did clean up the heads a little(doubtful it made any power difference). Did the MAF,intake,TB,shorty headers and o/r h pipe w/Flowmaster cat back(some of these parts were already on the car) and added an E cam with an engine overhaul. I probably saw about 30rwhp improvement(1/4 mile et's 13.60's on my best pass). Is it worth it for the time/money/effort for just a cam change? Probably not but I couldn't afford heads at the time. I'm in a similiar situation with my trans(I need/want a TKO but am rebuilding the T5...again). If you have the money for some heads I highly recommend you add them to the project. If you want some more everyday power they are well worth the investment. I would just wait until you are pulling the motor for the gasket repairs,etc and do it all in one shot. You can slowly acquire all the parts needed(used/new doesn't matter). Good luck. Oh and btw welcome to Stangnet!
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hey man thanks a lot! Yes, I'm definitely going to do all the gaskets/seals when the motor gets pulled apart. I can find deals on the upper/lower intake, headers, and things like tb, maf and cam are fairly cheap. O/r h pipe is going in on Saturday... Unless I can find a set of cheap gt40 3 bar heads, I don't think I'll be doing the heads. Cheapest set I find where I'm living is 1500 plus taxes for the edelbrock e streets(which I'm hearing aren't amazing) and around the 2g mark for trickflow heads. And for those saying save up for them, it's not that, it's the fact that where would I stop then... End up spending 4k + on the motor... I'm going to get staggered 17's, then at some point paint probably if I'm going that far on the performance aspect... I bought the car for 2800 and it needed some work, all in all, it's running me around 4 right now... I don't want to end up being into it for 10+ k... The 70 I have I bought for 9500 and am now at 22k and it keeps going up because you're in the nitty gritty stuff. Trying to keep this one a budget 6-7 k car and that's it sort of speak... (I hope lol)
 
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#28
Btrainfiveoh said:
He

hey man thanks a lot! Yes, I'm definitely going to do all the gaskets/seals when the motor gets pulled apart. I can find deals on the upper/lower intake, headers, and things like tb, maf and cam are fairly cheap. O/r h pipe is going in on Saturday... Unless I can find a set of cheap gt40 3 bar heads, I don't think I'll be doing the heads. Cheapest set I find where I'm living is 1500 plus taxes for the edelbrock e streets(which I'm hearing aren't amazing) and around the 2g mark for trickflow heads. And for those saying save up for them, it's not that, it's the fact that where would I stop then... End up spending 4k + on the motor... I'm going to get staggered 17's, then at some point paint probably if I'm going that far on the performance aspect... I bought the car for 2800 and it needed some work, all in all, it's running me around 4 right now... I don't want to end up being into it for 10+ k... The 70 I have I bought for 9500 and am now at 22k and it keeps going up because you're in the nitty gritty stuff. Trying to keep this one a budget 6-7 k car and that's it sort of speak... (I hope lol)
Click to expand...

I say fly to vegas and stay their for a weekend, buy some TW heads locally for $1100 and you will still come out better than paying for them to be shipped. $25 a bag with most airlines ...lol
 
#29
mikestang63 said:
I say fly to vegas and stay their for a weekend, buy some TW heads locally for $1100 and you will still come out better than paying for them to be shipped. $25 a bag with most airlines ...lol
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Haha, flying out to Vegas for the weekend will end up being atleast a grand! It'd be a fun vacation and "shopping" but I think I'll have to pass! Plus, telling the old lady I'm going to Vegas for a set of heads.... She may have a tough time believing that haha;)
 
#30
Btrainfiveoh said:
Haha, flying out to Vegas for the weekend will end up being atleast a grand! It'd be a fun vacation and "shopping" but I think I'll have to pass! Plus, telling the old lady I'm going to Vegas for a set of heads.... She may have a tough time believing that haha;)
Click to expand...


Yeah,,, "honey going to Vegas to get me some heads" ...... may not be the best course of action.
 
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#32
So I just saw dyno sheets of a local fella's stang.

91 lx 5.0
Stock 302 bottom end
Stock upper, ported lower, cai, 70mm tb and egr spacer, 76mm maf I believe, e303 cam, 1.6 roller rockers, tfs valve springs, mildly ported e7 heads(something about getting rid of the egr bump on the exhaust ports and mildly porting/cleaning up around the exhaust ports, bbk shorty headers, bbk o/r h pipe, 2.25 h pipe back exhaust with magnaflows.
T5, and 3.73 gears in the back

246 rwhp 289 ft lbs tq
And claims his car drives great(very street able) and pulls plenty hard.

I'm thinking those numbers are pretty solid for the work he had done? I'm thinking stock on these cars is something like 180-190 whp???

Also I have ran a couple quarter mile runs as is on the street, soft launch to avoid wheel spin with a passenger, and I have a bit of added weight from a sound system(40 some odd lbs maybe) ... Best run was 14.5 I'm thinkin if I can get into the high 12's low 13's id be plenty happy! I'm sure id do better if I could launch harder(and had traction)
 
#33
Just to give you an idea...most people need at least 260rwhp to get a high 12 to low 13 on street/non drag radial tire. Lots of things go into running a "number". Some variables are track prep,track elevation,driver ability,weight,suspension,tires etc etc. There have always been the exception to the rules. Your mid 14 is very typical. I ran a brand new 93 GT with all the 5 minute tricks into the 14.0-14.2 range on stock Michelin tires. My 89' with a few small boltons and some sticky tires would pull 13.75--3.80's and my 86 w/89 motor(e cam,all the boltons etc) runs 13.60's. I've raced off and on for 25 years. To get a stockish 302 into the 12's takes a lot of suspension/slicks/launching at 5000rpm/powershifting/etc. to run in that range you're going to need more horsepower. That is going to take heads/or a power adder. I know you're not talking about making a drag racer. I'm just saying To get any power out of stock heads you really have to know where/what to grind/port. And after you're done you'll still not outflow(or equal)any of the descent aluminums out there. Besides you're going to put some $ in parts for said heads(new springs,bigger valves,seals,grinding/sanding materials,your time,etc). Not worth it believe me.
 
#34
A5literMan said:
Just to give you an idea...most people need at least 260rwhp to get a high 12 to low 13 on street/non drag radial tire. Lots of things go into running a "number". Some variables are track prep,track elevation,driver ability,weight,suspension,tires etc etc. There have always been the exception to the rules. Your mid 14 is very typical. I ran a brand new 93 GT with all the 5 minute tricks into the 14.0-14.2 range on stock Michelin tires. My 89' with a few small boltons and some sticky tires would pull 13.75--3.80's and my 86 w/89 motor(e cam,all the boltons etc) runs 13.60's. I've raced off and on for 25 years. To get a stockish 302 into the 12's takes a lot of suspension/slicks/launching at 5000rpm/powershifting/etc. to run in that range you're going to need more horsepower. That is going to take heads/or a power adder. I know you're not talking about making a drag racer. I'm just saying To get any power out of stock heads you really have to know where/what to grind/port. And after you're done you'll still not outflow(or equal)any of the descent aluminums out there. Besides you're going to put some $ in parts for said heads(new springs,bigger valves,seals,grinding/sanding materials,your time,etc). Not worth it believe me.
Click to expand...
Yes I totally understand. And sorry I didn't mean that I'm that obsessed with trying to hit high 12's... To be honest I probobly won't take it to the track(maybe once for the hell of it) but I think if super mild port work at home (what the fella did) getting rid of the exhaust port egr and super mild porting at the exhaust side... And he got almost 250whp ... I'm not going to be to obsessive for 10 more hp to get into high 12's possibly. I do understand the way to go if I want to build big power and get the most out of the cam... I just don't want to get into all that with this car as well, like I said, my 1970 is the one I started on and now I look at the receipts sometimes and just go "wow, wtf" lol
 
#38
a91what said:
Check out latemodelrestoration.Com
they have sve brand heads under 1k that will perform well for a street car fully assembled.
Click to expand...

The sve heads converted to canadian shipped to me would be about 1300... If I'm going to go ahead and spend that, I may as well spend another 4-500 and just get tw heads... But as said before I'm trying to go budget friendly. I have a guy who can port out the stock heads mildy and the stock lower intake as well..(replace the springs in the heads to accommodate for a higher lift and new 1.6 roller rockers) everything for 600. Including the porting of the stock lower intake. Do you guys think that's a decent route?
The way I see it, if it can free up 40-50 hp with the intake, heads, and the e303 cam, and I'll throw on headers... I'd be pretty happy. Obviously new aluminum heads and what not would net much more gains, but I'd rather not end up being 2-4g into it once I'm done
 
#40
a91what said:
In reality the stock intake is a huge restriction no matter what you do to it.
Click to expand...

Fair enough, do you suggest a cobra/gt40 intake?
Also have been looking into the pp typhoon intake(it's like the edelbrock performer knock off I believe) heard some great reviews but on the other hand maybe a used edlebrock performer or trickflow street burner might be a better buy??
 
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