V3 Almost!
- Thread starter smkshw
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its a water jacket,looks like it was going right into lifter valley?,and thats the only cylinder that has some white on it?.....i really hope that didnt happen when i took it off!....i only did one head gasket before on a 4 banger and it was blown out the middle,so that was 100% definitive.
Im no expert reading head gaskets, but those look like felpro 1011s, which tend to not like boost. If the experts here can tell if that is your problem, change to 9333s, they take a bunch more abuse and are slightly thicker.
ya,that will be my next question thanks,i want the best gasket for boost,and want to find out the thickness i should get also....hope this is my problem cause im tired!
9333 pt1 are a good stock replacement gasket that can take abuse with some boost . That gasket doesn't look healthy and white on the.cyl says that's prob your issue . I'd stay away from MLs gaskets on your car cuz as you see the gasket was the fusible link in the situation .
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
a touch, the 9333 is .008" thicker than a 1011. i dont know the full specs on your motor, but running the calcs on mine the 1011 is 9.65:1 and the 9333 is 9.44:1
Yes. Not sure on that particular gasket you were running(thickness wise) but get the thickest one you can get and it will lower your compression. That gasket/head looks like it was bad. So hopefully you found your problem. And I also recommend the 9333's. Good luck!
If he sprang for a MLs deal he could take some more squeeze out of the motor too. Just with a stock block I don't know if a MLs gasket is ideal
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
I only read to certain point and skimmed the rest. This response may no longer be relevant (I'm on page 16 moving forward).
Have you removed and looked at the timing cover for cracks etc?
--also--
Aftermarket heads leave a gap between it and the block right at the corners of where the cork gasket should be sitting if you used one. That gap has to be filled from behind/underneath the lip of the deck and bottom of the head.
Ya,the tuner said to get the mls gasket the last time i saw him?....im not sure what to do?,i know for sure im putting the 6psi pulley on now though,i just want to make it work,and like i said before i dont want to be greedy,just want to make it safe
i havnt checked the timing cover?,by the pics it "seems" like i found my prob?......man do you think i should pull everything off and check?....now your giving me doubts?...lol
All i know im 10-1?....also im bored 30 over?....i think im going to go with the 9333,am i still ok to use it?.....the mls seems like if there is a problem things can get realy ugly
Mls gaskets tend to need a very particular and very flat surface finish, a lot easier to do with a fresh build. A traditional style gasket (1011, 9333, etc ) is a bit more "forgiving."
At this point, since you have it halfway apart anyway, I'd pull the cover and just double check everything is in one piece. Make sure the front bulhead isn't cracked, or you don't have a leaky gasket.
At this point, since you have it halfway apart anyway, I'd pull the cover and just double check everything is in one piece. Make sure the front bulhead isn't cracked, or you don't have a leaky gasket.
Ok.....well i talked to the other tuner,he also recomended the mls,and he said if i was runing 9 psi i should get a meth kit,but if im running 6psi ill be fine with out one,my funds are depleating,so for now im going with a mild tune!
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Unless you get the block and head PERFECTLY straight and they are prepped for them., don't get MLS gaskets. I've run 9333pt1's on every mustang I;ve owned for 25 years and they are fine.. They have a better fire ring than the 1011's and IMO you want the head gasket to be the fuse in the system.
Check the block and heads for straightness while eveything apart and get the surfaces squeaky clean using razor blades, green scotchbrites. I don;t like whiz wheels on aluminum. Make sure you put the HG on so both front go to the front and look up- one will look wierd but it does go that way.
Check the block and heads for straightness while eveything apart and get the surfaces squeaky clean using razor blades, green scotchbrites. I don;t like whiz wheels on aluminum. Make sure you put the HG on so both front go to the front and look up- one will look wierd but it does go that way.
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