Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

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Had a friend come over to help (a very knowledgeable one) after 15s with his head under the hood he said driver side rr came loose. So the valve covers come off.

#7 intake rr was almost off the stud, we reset it and tightened all of them back down on both sides. I did tighten the poly locks enough this time we did it with a ratchet. All is now quite again!

She idles high now tho, I will assume it is because it is running on all 8 now.:nice:
 
For hydraulic cams... Set at zero lash by hand, turn rocker nut 1/8 turn. Tighten poly lock snug, turn lock 1/8 more. They will never ever ever come loose again. Tightening the lock like a set screw just doesn't ever do the trick in my opinioin
 
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For hydraulic cams... Set at zero lash by hand, turn rocker nut 1/8 turn. Tighten poly lock snug, turn lock 1/8 more. They will never ever ever come loose again. Tightening the lock like a set screw just doesn't ever do the trick in my opinioin
That's good advice. Right now it's set, I will redo at the next oil change.
 
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Ha! Now I having idle issues.. lol

High idle 1k rpm with iac unplugged slowly climbs to 1400. Iac unplugged*
Checked for vac leaks found non.

Tps voltage was high 1.2v at idle, tried to adjust it down.... no go. Won't adjust down I have the adjustable base for the Tps. Took it off the tb, still 1.28v just sitting there. That ain't normal lol think I found my problem.
 
New tps fixed the issue.

Now chasing vacuum leaks I didn't realize I had, the filter on the valve cover with the pcv valve hooked up ain't gonna fly. Huge leak like a 200-300 rpm leak.
Going to get new pcv valve and try to tube the valve cover to the intake before the SC or hook a pcv valve up backwards on the valve cover then add the filter. This would close it off at vacuum and let it open under boost.... any ideas?
 
Sorry guys no pics too dark.lol

Fixed the vacuum leak, only problem now is it idles in the 12.9 afr range... annoying.

With the idle down to a mean 800 rpm (sounds sweet) my e303 cammed turd barely pulls 14inhg. So as the vacuum comes down the fuel pressure goes up.

Now when the fans come on the car stalls out instead of catching itself, more annoying than the high idle imo. Tomorrow I guess I will up the idle and deal with it until I get a dcc and my MS...

Never again will I get a remotely burned chip, they won't retune even if I send in a data log. Damn BAMA tunes they tuned once for the 90mm lmaf, now there policy is to not mess with anything not "basic bolt on".
 
Never again will I get a remotely burned chip, they won't retune even if I send in a data log. Damn BAMA tunes they tuned once for the 90mm lmaf, now there policy is to not mess with anything not "basic bolt on".
Should have asked... We all would have saved you this trouble :nonono:
 
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Sorry guys no pics too dark.lol

Fixed the vacuum leak, only problem now is it idles in the 12.9 afr range... annoying.

With the idle down to a mean 800 rpm (sounds sweet) my e303 cammed turd barely pulls 14inhg. So as the vacuum comes down the fuel pressure goes up.

Now when the fans come on the car stalls out instead of catching itself, more annoying than the high idle imo. Tomorrow I guess I will up the idle and deal with it until I get a dcc and my MS...

Never again will I get a remotely burned chip, they won't retune even if I send in a data log. Damn BAMA tunes they tuned once for the 90mm lmaf, now there policy is to not mess with anything not "basic bolt on".
Any room in the spectrum for a little more base ignition timing? That will add a little more vacuum to the mix.....though with that cam, I wouldn't expect much more. I'm probably seeing about 14ih/hg with my XE274HR.
 
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Any room in the spectrum for a little more base ignition timing? That will add a little more vacuum to the mix.....though with that cam, I wouldn't expect much more. I'm probably seeing about 14ih/hg with my XE274HR.
I don't have a btm on the car yet... 6psi with base timing set to 10* I would gladly go to 12* but I'm worried that may be too much. Especially since I have 6psi all the way up from idle if I so desire, when peak torque hits that 2* of timing could be a head gasket.
 
What would be the down side of locking the timing out at say, 23-24*?? Is this too much for my intercooled positive displacement build on 6#??

Or should I just bump the base timing up and not worry about it? Is 6# enough to need to pull timing?
 
Tuned for na, no tune for the boost. No btm. Running plugs 2 steps cold from stock, 93 octane gas. Fmu.

I'd take the chip out. It most likely is advancing the timing more than you would like if setup for n/a. 6# of boost is entry level and not going to lift a head gasket unless you get stupid lean or advanced timing. Those kits are deignedt to run with stock setups, even with a BTM, tune,

What size injectors? I assume not 42's which is why the FMU.
 
Custom m90 supercharger setup.
30# injectors. Needed 12:1 disc to get afr in the 11 range.

Chip can't come out its tuned for the 90mm lmaf I'm running.

My only concern is timing at peak torque since the boost is all in at any rpm.

I have 3 tunes in the chip, I use the "economy " tune for 87 octane.

Also have "street" for 89... and a "race" tune for 93.

It idles better with the street and race tunes but I have not driven the car around with then in its current form.
 
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Took the car out to the 1/8th mile tonight.

Best pass 8.3 et, 2.4 60ft., 83mph. Street tires 40psi. (Had no way to refill them after the race so I left them alone)

Had to leave in 2nd gear, with a soft launch. first would just spin no matter how soft I launched. Convertible, full weight with half tank of gas, 250lbs worth of stereo in the back seat.

Problem- even with a filter on the valve cover it would blow out the dipstick and I got oil on the header. Never did that on the street. Now I'm seeing 4# instead of 6 on the boost gauge. Wondering if I may have a leaking intake gasket?? Or is that normal?:shrug: