- Dec 19, 2010
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Valves. They burn in half and drop down into the cylinder.. in turn, being driven back up through the chamber rendering the cyl head useless. Got that t shirt.. very important that the fuel solenoid opens... lol.
Progress Thread Project Copper Can
- Thread starter MikeH686
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Valves. They burn in half and drop down into the cylinder.. in turn, being driven back up through the chamber rendering the cyl head useless. Got that t shirt.. very important that the fuel solenoid opens... lol.
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Very true each system has its catastrophic style failures. I do plan on getting rid of these 17" setup and going with a set of 15's with Mickey Thompson drag radials.
What is your intended usuage for the car going forward? What rear gear are you running? Your present set up would really like a turbo(auto,low compression,drag radials,even the cam and computer/fuel system). You wouldn't probably be able to run a bunch of boost because of the fuel system and the block but heck 450-500rwhp is very attainable. I don't particularly like the turbo idea because of underhood heat issue,some tuning issues,etc. but that's just me. Either way would be fun IMO.
I'm not sure I'm going to start doing a lot of no time racing with guys that I know. I could probably keep going forward with the turbo since I already have the bulk of the turbo system already
With a competent tuner unless your looking to run it on the ragged edge every weekend once the tune is sort out its basically turn the key and go . I haven't had a single issue with my tune with my dinosaur Pms since kris tuned it
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I gotcha, hey anyone wanna help me with a new dilemma I have with my car. She starts completely fine but doesn't stay idling cuts out after a minute I'm gonna assume it may be the tps sensor one weird thing is that it has a weird temperament when idling every so often it spikes to 1100 then back to 800 but it acts like a miss almost. I have an extra tps sensor in my shed I might throw on in a little bit. A couple weeks ago the car was running fine just hot. I ended up needing to get a standard rotation water pump to get more belt wrap on the pulley. At least I had one thing go right with the car staying cool now
You ever check the ect sensor ? I had mentioned it a while back and it will do some funky stuff with the idle because he computer thinks the car is extreme cold or hot etc.
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- Dec 19, 2010
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When mine was still n/a and on the stock computer, it went thru a spell like that. It would also die at stop signs. It kept throwing goofy codes randomly. . One that came the most was bad pcm ground iirc. Chased it for a long time, it wound up being a bad computer. Sucked it up and bought another one, and it ran like a top after that.
Yeah bad thing is this is a a9l I had a a3m but I sold it a month ago and no Jeff I hadn't checked it I'll look up the resistance reading chart if they have one for that sensor
They do I don't no what it is but its worth looking into . Mine would read negative 30 and idle at the sky
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I just ohmed it and got 17000 ohms which by the chart I found on the inter web means that it thinks my coolant is around 55 degrees ...
If the car is cold that's likely .
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Nah the car was above 100 but I just checked another chart and it is reading marginal about 12 degrees off. I checked both act and ect and they read the same
Well atleast that's ruled out
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Yeah my fuel pressure is good around 42 with vaccum off I could try swapping out the plugs tomorrow and see if that will help or not
I can't remember so I'll ask...does a bad pip sensor have those symptoms? I know when the tfi module goes bad the car tends to just die when (the module) gets warm. I don't remember any other tfi related symptoms. If the ect act and tps check out you might want to look into those areas(pip tfs)
A way to test the pip I found is to disconnect the spout if it stays running it's the distributor for sure. I just replaced the distributor too 
Well I've come to the conclusion that I'm stayin with my turbo setup, well I got the car to stop breaking up on acceleration, damn tps sensor, now I can't get the thing to idle longer then a couple minutes I wonder if my plugs are fouled up I never got around to pulling them the other day, I have great fuel pressure 40 with the vac off, my iat and ect sensors
Man I have a rough time keeping up with this thread, but here is a pic, I said I was going to 15's and mickeys. I also have a set of 17x 4.5" race stars coming in too so excuse the original wheels in front. Also found my problem with the car not starting, helps when you have some good gas, turns out I let the gas in there too long and it either had water get in it or started to turn to varnish either way I had separation.
Another thing I found out is that my fuel pump was only a 190lph and not the 255lph I thought was in it. I don't know why I never changed it out, also to add to these changes I put on a set of Viking 14" 150lb springs and got rid of the other 12" 250 I had in the front originally. So enjoy my progress and stay tuned as I will try to keep up with it more.
Another thing I found out is that my fuel pump was only a 190lph and not the 255lph I thought was in it. I don't know why I never changed it out, also to add to these changes I put on a set of Viking 14" 150lb springs and got rid of the other 12" 250 I had in the front originally. So enjoy my progress and stay tuned as I will try to keep up with it more.
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