92 Gt W/351w Advice Needed
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what kind of mods do you have and how much power are you making?
I haven't bought a carb yet but will be probably in the next week or two once i can make up my mind.
I have a XE262H comp cams camshaft, edelbrock estreet heads, summit stage 2 intake manifold, summit 600cfm carb, and msd distributor/ignition. Bottom end is stock internals. Has great street manners and runs 11.6 on a 100 shot at the track. 93 mustang, 3.73 gears, and a t5
this is the way my dizzy is now. i have the rotor pointed at the one position on the cap. i can turn the dizzy both ways so it can point at the points on either side. do you guys think i have it right.
i started the fuel tank. got it out and got the pump off. do i just replace the piece of hose that you see with one that reaches the bottom of the tank. do i need something on the end of it to make sure it stays at the bottom?
i started the fuel tank. got it out and got the pump off. do i just replace the piece of hose that you see with one that reaches the bottom of the tank. do i need something on the end of it to make sure it stays at the bottom?
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Why set the distributor before the intake? I realise you can probably work around it, but it just seems like it would make a simple job difficult.
I second this. Installing the distributor after the intake is set seems like a hell of a lot less hassle than the other way.
All of the fuel systems that I see that are siphon tube designed, typically have a hard line w/ a sock plumbed to the bottom of the tank. I don't have any other recommendation for you to keep a rubber hose submerged. If you just use a tube/hose to suck the gas outta the tank, you will have to use a pre-filter before the pump to be safe, as well as one before the carb to keep and debris out that may either get sucked up that is in the tank that may cut/damage the diaphragm in the pump.
superchamp5.0
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- Sep 23, 2015
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mechanical fuel pumps I will agree are old school and outdated but you can still support big hp numbers with one hell NASCAR used one up until they went to EFI in 2012
wouldn't i still be using my stock fuel filter?
for the dizzy like i said before it is just difficult to get this one seated so i would rather do it while i can see what is going on. you didnt mention if you think i have it clocked right or not.
Again,......You do mean distributor right?
Dizzy is a state of spatial disorientation, or a mindset of platinum blonde females.
It belongs in the same place that tranny belongs.........in the 60's.
Getting the distributor to drop all the way onto the oil pump drive after getting it on the cam gear is just a matter of holding it down slightly, while bumping the engine w/ either a remote starter button, or a screwdriver jumped across the starter solenoid.
So easy even a caveman could do it.
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As to having it clocked right. It's hard to tell with the cap on. The rotor should be pointing at the # 1 cylinder. Like Mike said dropping it in is just a matter of bumping the engine. I like putting the car in gear and then rocking it while pushing down on the distributor or I will put a wrench on the crank pulley.
The rotor should point at about the 2 o'clock position. That would put the vacuum advance straight out and you could turn the cap without hitting anything. I'm not saying the way you have it won't work but if you look at any diagram, number 1 isn't at 12 oclock.
As far as the fuel tank, you really should use a hard fuel line. I have done the rubber hose before and it worked but I don't recommend it. We drilled a 3/4 hole in the top, installed a rubber grommet, pushed a rubber fuel line in until it bent a little (not kinked. And then we sealed the hose and grommet with some jb water weld putty. It till works but I still don't recommend it.
If you go electric fuel pump then you can't pull fuel from the top of the tank. You have to use either a fuel cell or a sumped fuel tank. Electric pumps push fuel, they don't pull fuel.
As far as the fuel tank, you really should use a hard fuel line. I have done the rubber hose before and it worked but I don't recommend it. We drilled a 3/4 hole in the top, installed a rubber grommet, pushed a rubber fuel line in until it bent a little (not kinked. And then we sealed the hose and grommet with some jb water weld putty. It till works but I still don't recommend it.
If you go electric fuel pump then you can't pull fuel from the top of the tank. You have to use either a fuel cell or a sumped fuel tank. Electric pumps push fuel, they don't pull fuel.
first off let me say that i appreciate everyones input. i have worked on cars before but this stuff is beyond what i have done before. some of the things that seem easy to you guys and make perfect sense just don't add up for me until i get my hands on it and take something apart.
stykthyn, i think if you place the distributor with the vacuum advance pointing off to the side like the efi DISTRIBUTORS do then it would be like you said. sharp2377 is saying turn the DISTRIBUTOR and have the vacuum pointing straight ahead which would give you the most adjustment and when you turn it that much you will actually have put the number one position at the 2 oclock position.
i have taken the DISTRIBUTOR in an out enough i fee confident i could do it with the cover on and just bumping it like you guys have said.
as for my fuel pickup. i got a piece of steel tube and cut it so it would be a little shorter than the pump was. i then use a small piece of 5/16 fuel line and attached it to where the efi pump used to be. so i have a tiny piece of tubing and then a six inch piece of steel tubing. I couldn't think of a nice way to get anything on the bottom of the piece of tube that i think would work long term. I will probably do what madmike i think was suggesting and use the efi stock filter and then use another one down the line probably in the engine bay.
I think i may have done my first bone head move. My idea for the fuel lines was to use more of the 5/16 fuel line and connect that to where the efi line comes into the engine bay. I will just use a hose clamp to attach it and a barb and the right size fitting to get it into the mechanical pump. After reading a bit last night i realized they actually make fittings for me to use the efi type connections. I didn't know this at the time and i cut the rubber hose where it meets the metal part of the fuel line in the engine bay. Is my hose clamp idea good? i am trying to get this car running with the carb on a budget so i would like to avoid spending a bunch of money on all new fuel lines.
stykthyn, i think if you place the distributor with the vacuum advance pointing off to the side like the efi DISTRIBUTORS do then it would be like you said. sharp2377 is saying turn the DISTRIBUTOR and have the vacuum pointing straight ahead which would give you the most adjustment and when you turn it that much you will actually have put the number one position at the 2 oclock position.
i have taken the DISTRIBUTOR in an out enough i fee confident i could do it with the cover on and just bumping it like you guys have said.
as for my fuel pickup. i got a piece of steel tube and cut it so it would be a little shorter than the pump was. i then use a small piece of 5/16 fuel line and attached it to where the efi pump used to be. so i have a tiny piece of tubing and then a six inch piece of steel tubing. I couldn't think of a nice way to get anything on the bottom of the piece of tube that i think would work long term. I will probably do what madmike i think was suggesting and use the efi stock filter and then use another one down the line probably in the engine bay.
I think i may have done my first bone head move. My idea for the fuel lines was to use more of the 5/16 fuel line and connect that to where the efi line comes into the engine bay. I will just use a hose clamp to attach it and a barb and the right size fitting to get it into the mechanical pump. After reading a bit last night i realized they actually make fittings for me to use the efi type connections. I didn't know this at the time and i cut the rubber hose where it meets the metal part of the fuel line in the engine bay. Is my hose clamp idea good? i am trying to get this car running with the carb on a budget so i would like to avoid spending a bunch of money on all new fuel lines.
I would assume that would work. Not sure how much psi we are talking here. I know theymake special hose clamps for efi soft lines that are only a dollar or so more. I've used them in the past without incident.
As far as the distributor aslong as the rotor is pointing at the correct terminal it will fire over as it should. I never rely on position of the vacuum bulb or the tfi module.
I remember the first time I installed a Ford distributor no one told me about bumping the engine. Took me the better part of a day to get the damn thing seated.
As far as the distributor aslong as the rotor is pointing at the correct terminal it will fire over as it should. I never rely on position of the vacuum bulb or the tfi module.
I remember the first time I installed a Ford distributor no one told me about bumping the engine. Took me the better part of a day to get the damn thing seated.
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