3g Alternator

Fri Guy

15 Year Member
May 10, 2007
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I need to replace my old 3g alternator on my fox body. Wondering if it's best to dish out the extra $$$ for a New PA Performance one or just get a remanufactured one from the local auto parts store for a lot less than the PA one. The PA is about $200 and I can get a remanufactured Remy with lifetime warranty for $90. I don't mind paying the extra money if it will actually make a difference in overall performance. What do you guys recommend?
 
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The OEM Ford alternator has better output characteristics for low speed city driving. Other than that, there isn't a lot need for a $200 alternator unless you have a monster stereo system that is louder than the space shuttle at takeoff...

The $90 3G (94-95 Mustang) parts house replacement should be OK. Be sure to have it tested before you get out of the parts store. Make a copy of the receipt and put it away someplace safe. The counter receipt is printed on thermal paper and it quickly fades away to be unreadable. I am sure that this is by design so that they don't have to live up to their lifetime guarantee...
 
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I purchased the Remy remanufactured one for $90. The old one was actually a junkyard find and worked great for about 6 years. When removing it I noticed that it had 2 thin wires that were bridged together and hooked up to the power terminal of the alternator. I want to run a 4 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery but what do I do with those 2 wires?

A6A9BF24-FAB4-4DFF-83BC-3A210A8BB657_zpsdiag2crt.png
 
I purchased the Remy remanufactured one for $90. The old one was actually a junkyard find and worked great for about 6 years. When removing it I noticed that it had 2 thin wires that were bridged together and hooked up to the power terminal of the alternator. I want to run a 4 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery but what do I do with those 2 wires

A6A9BF24-FAB4-4DFF-83BC-3A210A8BB657_zpsdiag2crt.png
 
I purchased the Remy remanufactured one for $90. The old one was actually a junkyard find and worked great for about 6 years. When removing it I noticed that it had 2 thin wires that were bridged together and hooked up to the power terminal of the alternator. I want to run a 4 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery but what do I do with those 2 wires

A6A9BF24-FAB4-4DFF-83BC-3A210A8BB657_zpsdiag2crt.png

Do not reuse the two power wires off the original power plug. Tape them off and tuck out of the way. .. ONLY run the 4 g wire with at least a 125 amp fuse directly to the battery or the battery post side of the solenoid.
 
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Is a 4 gauge ground in the front large enough if my battery is relocated to the rear? I have a 1 gauge ground at the rear.
Every battery relocation kit has what looks like at least 2 ga cable running up front to the starter solenoid. If you have run sufficient cable between the bat and the starter solenoid, and assuming that you haven't relocated the solenoid and it is still in the engine compartment, then I'd think a 4 ga jumper to that post will be adequate.

But I gotta ask you.
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Smog delete pulley with my S-Trim set up. The red lettering was the junkyard alternator that is being replaced with a remanufactured one. They wrote on it to identify it came from them for the 30 day warranty. My starter solenoid is still up front in the stock location.


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Installed new 3g alternator along with a 4 gauge power wire with inline fuse and added a 4 gauge ground from the cylinder head to the sway bar mount bracket. Seems to be running better. Need to drive it for a while and see if my battery stays charged. Thanks fellas!