Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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When you start assembling the interior I'll bring the Cyclone brand up again... Lol
- Dec 19, 2010
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I just envisioned a grill mounted paintball gun for those a holes that cut you off in traffic.
I swear I'm gonna do that one day.
Late to the party. #1) I love the rear end. Although I am not overly picky so long as they arent sagging, too dimply, or out of proportion. #2) I feel the outer sides of your hood scoops should follow the line of the hood right next to them. Probably too late for that type of redesign, but just throwing it out there since you sometimes like my ideas and enjoy doing things multiple times. #3) Never mind. Carry on Goat.
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This one does small wheelies lol
He owns this as well . Both are 7 and 8 sec street cars . Cream dream 1 &2 they are called .
Haven't checked in a while mike sorry for the derail but the car does look bad ass as usual.
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
Late to the party. #1) I love the rear end. Although I am not overly picky so long as they arent sagging, too dimply, or out of proportion. #2) I feel the outer sides of your hood scoops should follow the line of the hood right next to them. Probably too late for that type of redesign, but just throwing it out there since you sometimes like my ideas and enjoy doing things multiple times. #3) Never mind. Carry on Goat.
I already saw the line/symmetry thingy, and I agree, it would've looked better had I found a way to marry the outside edge of the blister to that. But at this juncture That'll just have to do, Pig.
Pipe down.The brand was/is also part of the intentions for the door panels.
When you start assembling the interior I'll bring the Cyclone brand up again... Lol
He owns this as well . Both are 7 and 8 sec street cars . Cream dream 1 &2 they are called .
Haven't checked in a while mike sorry for the derail but the car does look bad ass as usual.
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
Thanks,...I think that guy you posted would pick up about .5 if he'd used a car that didn't have the drag coefficiency of a cement block.
When you're like me, not having something to write about is like not having a job. Nothing to give you a feeling of satisfaction, or accomplishent. No self worth, No warm and fuzzy feelings of security.
So,..despite not having a job, everyday I stay the course and try to change that. Along those same lines, and so that I would in fact have something to talk about, I purposely went downstairs to snap a few pics to create a platform for this cobbled together update.
Last week, I took what will be the center plate that'll go between the tail lights to a laser cutter. I was supposed to have it back by now, but haven't gotten the call. For those that skim through these updates, and don't know what "plate" I'm talking about, the plate is having the word CYCLONE cut out of it. When I get it back, I'll box it to give it some depth. I'll add "fins" like I did to the original valve cover, and I'm gonna back light it, and mount it between the Shelby tail lights. It will serve as the shine through for the back up lights. What I haven't been able to come up with yet is the lights. I'm gonna use some sort of surface, or recess mount LED lighting,...but that is still YTD. If I can get what I really want to work, I'll use dual mode LEDS that illuminate in two different colors. One color, white, will be used as B/U lights. The other, (red) will serve as a third brake light.
That is still a project in the planning stage.
What isn't in the "planning stage" was the grille(s)
If you are paying attention, you'll see I used a present, and past tense in the same sentence.
The "present" part of the grille is that I'm working on it. The past tense part is yet another "version" that made it all the way to implementation, that I ended up not liking after the fact.
This is the grille.
Now you to Mustang Guys, this looks absolutely normal. To anybody who owns a Fairmont, they should recognize immediately that this grille is completely altered. The egg crate portion reveals where there used to be spars crossing over the egg crate. Those spars were originally part of a removable frame that is now "modified" to be as you see it. Just a rectangle.
To get to this level has required patching and sanding the cut away areas, sanding and smoothing, priming and sanding until you end up with a separately paintable frame that will eventually get painted body color (orange).
This version, although it looks like to most casual observers to be the stocker, is what will go on the car. Yeah,...I wish the spars weren't thicker than the rest of the egg crate,.....maybe I'll add body color pinstripe on top of the spars against a matte black background,.....I'm still thinkin'.
What will not happen, is "Plan A"
Plan A still uses the frame you see in the top pic, but gives depth, and an obviously modified grille facade to the front end.
What it doesn't give, is a place to put the hood latch, The safety catch spring, or the release cable.
I knew all this stuff when I started this folly. I was gonna use hood pins as the means to secure the hood, exactly the same solution as I did on the red car.
The typical hood pins are cheesy. I went through several torsion clips on the red car as a testimony to that fact. Most of them offer no security when the car is parked in a Hotel parking lot, and those that do, are equally cheesy, and a sure fire failure at the worst possible time at some point in the future.
No, said the finger
Besides. I paid money to have the catch spring, the latch, and the cover, powder coated. Why the hell would I leave it on the table?
But,......S.O.P. for me is that I have modified stuff to accommodate the Plan A grille. Stuff that I now have to reverse.
First..
The headlight buckets have little mount points for the stock grille integrated into their frames. I cut those off so the Plan A would slide by. Now that the stock grille is back, I had to create a way to secure the bottom,......again.
The Plan A grille provided just enough room for the factory hood latch to bolt up. But the integral bracket that held the release cable, and the attachment point for the cable stood proud of that and the grille would not fit. I cut it off so I could flip it, effectively reversing the stand off. But I would have to reweld that onto a powder coated mechanism.
How much of that powder coat is gonna get melted off when I do that?
Regardless, Now that Plan A is out of the picture, I have to restore the latch back to its' factory orientation. That means I gotta weld it back together.
How much of that powder coat is gonna get melted off when I do that?
For what ever reason, I threw away the factory upper grille mounts that secure the grille. So I had to make some.
Looking at them,....I'm not happy. If I can find factory replacements, I'll use them. If not, I'll make replacements the more closely resemble the factory pieces.......Again.
When you get the grille in place, it leaves a significant gap between the top of the bumper, and the bottom of the grille. Every other Fairmont running around just deals with that gap by raising the bumper as high as it can be oriented. Doing that however, effectively "drop the pants" on the lower radiator saddle, and lets that malocclusion hang out for God and Country to see.
As clearly evident on the protruding chin of the Hurricane of 1991.
So,...Since everything on this car is pretty much set in stone with the Monster,....the solution was obvious.......
Fill the gap.
The gap is 1", the filler stands 3/4" above the top of the bumper. Was it as simple as screwing that strip on back?
Nope. It's 90 degree angle stuff. It has to bend backwards and forwards 3 times. Cuttin, sectionin,' weldin'.
And this was most of last week.
Yesterday,...I decided that I was gonna finish wiring the car. After all I got the new, sequencing LED tail lights, I got the new, H4 bulbed hologen head lights.
What I don't have are new sockets, and the old ones are typical for any piece of plastic that has been on Earth for 40 years.......Dry,....brittle,...crusty, and originally rated for low powere sealed beam headlights. Nothing you'd want to waste your time tying into your new wire harness, and attach your four H4 halogen lights to.
So,......I wanted to wire it,......I don't have what I need.
There now,......I feel much better.
So,..despite not having a job, everyday I stay the course and try to change that. Along those same lines, and so that I would in fact have something to talk about, I purposely went downstairs to snap a few pics to create a platform for this cobbled together update.
Last week, I took what will be the center plate that'll go between the tail lights to a laser cutter. I was supposed to have it back by now, but haven't gotten the call. For those that skim through these updates, and don't know what "plate" I'm talking about, the plate is having the word CYCLONE cut out of it. When I get it back, I'll box it to give it some depth. I'll add "fins" like I did to the original valve cover, and I'm gonna back light it, and mount it between the Shelby tail lights. It will serve as the shine through for the back up lights. What I haven't been able to come up with yet is the lights. I'm gonna use some sort of surface, or recess mount LED lighting,...but that is still YTD. If I can get what I really want to work, I'll use dual mode LEDS that illuminate in two different colors. One color, white, will be used as B/U lights. The other, (red) will serve as a third brake light.
That is still a project in the planning stage.
What isn't in the "planning stage" was the grille(s)
If you are paying attention, you'll see I used a present, and past tense in the same sentence.
The "present" part of the grille is that I'm working on it. The past tense part is yet another "version" that made it all the way to implementation, that I ended up not liking after the fact.
This is the grille.
Now you to Mustang Guys, this looks absolutely normal. To anybody who owns a Fairmont, they should recognize immediately that this grille is completely altered. The egg crate portion reveals where there used to be spars crossing over the egg crate. Those spars were originally part of a removable frame that is now "modified" to be as you see it. Just a rectangle.
To get to this level has required patching and sanding the cut away areas, sanding and smoothing, priming and sanding until you end up with a separately paintable frame that will eventually get painted body color (orange).
This version, although it looks like to most casual observers to be the stocker, is what will go on the car. Yeah,...I wish the spars weren't thicker than the rest of the egg crate,.....maybe I'll add body color pinstripe on top of the spars against a matte black background,.....I'm still thinkin'.
What will not happen, is "Plan A"
Plan A still uses the frame you see in the top pic, but gives depth, and an obviously modified grille facade to the front end.
What it doesn't give, is a place to put the hood latch, The safety catch spring, or the release cable.
I knew all this stuff when I started this folly. I was gonna use hood pins as the means to secure the hood, exactly the same solution as I did on the red car.
The typical hood pins are cheesy. I went through several torsion clips on the red car as a testimony to that fact. Most of them offer no security when the car is parked in a Hotel parking lot, and those that do, are equally cheesy, and a sure fire failure at the worst possible time at some point in the future.
No, said the finger
Besides. I paid money to have the catch spring, the latch, and the cover, powder coated. Why the hell would I leave it on the table?
But,......S.O.P. for me is that I have modified stuff to accommodate the Plan A grille. Stuff that I now have to reverse.
First..
The headlight buckets have little mount points for the stock grille integrated into their frames. I cut those off so the Plan A would slide by. Now that the stock grille is back, I had to create a way to secure the bottom,......again.
The Plan A grille provided just enough room for the factory hood latch to bolt up. But the integral bracket that held the release cable, and the attachment point for the cable stood proud of that and the grille would not fit. I cut it off so I could flip it, effectively reversing the stand off. But I would have to reweld that onto a powder coated mechanism.
How much of that powder coat is gonna get melted off when I do that?
Regardless, Now that Plan A is out of the picture, I have to restore the latch back to its' factory orientation. That means I gotta weld it back together.
How much of that powder coat is gonna get melted off when I do that?
For what ever reason, I threw away the factory upper grille mounts that secure the grille. So I had to make some.
Looking at them,....I'm not happy. If I can find factory replacements, I'll use them. If not, I'll make replacements the more closely resemble the factory pieces.......Again.
When you get the grille in place, it leaves a significant gap between the top of the bumper, and the bottom of the grille. Every other Fairmont running around just deals with that gap by raising the bumper as high as it can be oriented. Doing that however, effectively "drop the pants" on the lower radiator saddle, and lets that malocclusion hang out for God and Country to see.
As clearly evident on the protruding chin of the Hurricane of 1991.
So,...Since everything on this car is pretty much set in stone with the Monster,....the solution was obvious.......
Fill the gap.
The gap is 1", the filler stands 3/4" above the top of the bumper. Was it as simple as screwing that strip on back?
Nope. It's 90 degree angle stuff. It has to bend backwards and forwards 3 times. Cuttin, sectionin,' weldin'.
And this was most of last week.
Yesterday,...I decided that I was gonna finish wiring the car. After all I got the new, sequencing LED tail lights, I got the new, H4 bulbed hologen head lights.
What I don't have are new sockets, and the old ones are typical for any piece of plastic that has been on Earth for 40 years.......Dry,....brittle,...crusty, and originally rated for low powere sealed beam headlights. Nothing you'd want to waste your time tying into your new wire harness, and attach your four H4 halogen lights to.
So,......I wanted to wire it,......I don't have what I need.
There now,......I feel much better.
Last edited:
- Dec 19, 2010
- 5,719
- 4,238
- 224
When you're like me, not having something to write about is like not having a job. Nothing to give you a feeling of satisfaction, or accomplishent. No self worth, No warm and fuzzy feelings of security.
So,..despite not having a job, everyday I stay the course and try to change that. Along those same lines, and so that I would in fact have something to talk about, I purposely went downstairs to snap a few pics to create a platform for this cobbled together update.
Last week, I took what will be the center plate that'll go between the tail lights to a laser cutter. I was supposed to have it back by now, but haven't gotten the call. For those that skim through these updates, and don't know what "plate" I'm talking about, the plate is having the word CYCLONE cut out of it. When I get it back, I'll box it to give it some depth. I'll add "fins" like I did to the original valve cover, and I'm gonna back light it, and mount it between the Shelby tail lights. It will serve as the shine through for the back up lights. What I haven't been able to come up with yet is the lights. I'm gonna use some sort of surface, or recess mount LED lighting,...but that is still YTD. If I can get what I really want to work, I'll use dual mode LEDS that illuminate in two different colors. One color, white, will be used as B/U lights. The other, (red) will serve as a third brake light.
That is still a project in the planning stage.
What isn't in the "planning stage" was the grille(s)
If you are paying attention, you'll see I used a present, and past tense in the same sentence.
The "present" part of the grille is that I'm working on it. The past tense part is yet another "version" that made it all the way to implementation, that I ended up not liking after the fact.
This is the grille.
Now you to Mustang Guys, this looks absolutely normal. To anybody who owns a Fairmont, they should recognize immediately that this grille is completely altered. The egg crate portion reveals where there used to be spars crossing over the egg crate. Those spars were originally part of a removable frame that is now "modified" to be as you see it. Just a rectangle.
To get to this level has required patching and sanding the cut away areas, sanding and smoothing, priming and sanding until you end up with a separately paintable frame that will eventually get painted body color (orange).
This version, although it looks like to most casual observers to be the stocker, is what will go on the car. Yeah,...I wish the spars weren't thicker than the rest of the egg crate,.....maybe I'll add body color pinstripe on top of the spars against a matte black background,.....I'm still thinkin'.
What will not happen, is "Plan A"
Plan A still uses the frame you see in the top pic, but gives depth, and an obviously modified grille facade to the front end.
What it doesn't give, is a place to put the hood latch, The safety catch spring, or the release cable.
I knew all this stuff when I started this folly. I was gonna use hood pins as the means to secure the hood, exactly the same solution as I did on the red car.
The typical hood pins are cheesy. I went through several torsion clips on the red car as a testimony to that fact. Most of them offer no security when the car is parked in a Hotel parking lot, and those that do, are equally cheesy, and a sure fire failure at the worst possible time at some point in the future.
No, said the finger
Besides. I paid money to have the catch spring, the latch, and the cover, powder coated. Why the hell would I leave it on the table?
But,......S.O.P. for me is that I have modified stuff to accommodate the Plan A grille. Stuff that I now have to reverse.
First..
The headlight buckets have little mount points for the stock grille integrated into their frames. I cut those off so the Plan A would slide by. Now that the stock grille is back, I had to create a way to secure the bottom,......again.
The Plan A grille provided just enough room for the factory hood latch to bolt up. But the integral bracket that held the release cable, and the attachment point for the cable stood proud of that and the grille would not fit. I cut it off so I could flip it, effectively reversing the stand off. But I would have to reweld that onto a powder coated mechanism.
How much of that powder coat is gonna get melted off when I do that?
Regardless, Now that Plan A is out of the picture, I have to restore the latch back to its' factory orientation. That means I gotta weld it back together.
How much of that powder coat is gonna get melted off when I do that?
For what ever reason, I threw away the factory upper grille mounts that secure the grille. So I had to make some.
Looking at them,....I'm not happy. If I can find factory replacements, I'll use them. If not, I'll make replacements the more closely resemble the factory pieces.......Again.
When you get the grille in place, it leaves a significant gap between the top of the bumper, and the bottom of the grille. Every other Fairmont running around just deals with that gap by raising the bumper as high as it can be oriented. Doing that however, effectively "drop the pants" on the lower radiator saddle, and lets that malocclusion hang out for God and Country to see.
As clearly evident on the protruding chin of the Hurricane of 1991.
So,...Since everything on this car is pretty much set in stone with the Monster,....the solution was obvious.......
Fill the gap.
The gap is 1", the filler stands 3/4" above the top of the bumper. Was it as simple as screwing that strip on back?
Nope. It's 90 degree angle stuff. It has to bend backwards and forwards 3 times. Cuttin, sectionin,' weldin'.
And this was most of last week.
Yesterday,...I decided that I was gonna finish wiring the car. After all I got the new, sequencing LED tail lights, I got the new, H4 bulbed hologen head lights.
What I don't have are new sockets, and the old ones are typical for any piece of plastic that has been on Earth for 40 years.......Dry,....brittle,...crusty, and originally rated for low powere sealed beam headlights. Nothing you'd want to waste your time tying into your new wire harness, and attach your four H4 halogen lights to.
So,......I wanted to wire it,......I don't have what I need.
There now,......I feel much better.
I really like the Hurricane.
On the light sockets, are they the same as a typical 4 eye car? I may have some I can send you.
They are. They're available as replacement pieces everywhere,...even have some big wire " high temp" units available ( which I bought). I have to look at what I got, and see what I need. Since the tails are led panels, I think the sockets aren't required. What I'm gonna need are the side marker lamp sockets I think. The front TS are gonna be dual mode LEDs ( white/ Amber) so, I'll upgrade the sockets from the standard 1157 to 3157 styles for those as well.
- Dec 19, 2010
- 5,719
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- 224
Ok. Well if you come across something you may need that you don't have message me. I have an 84 sitting that's getting parted out.
Always the wise guy,....Yeah, that must be keeping him out of the 6s.
Look at that car.....the only thing dude could've done to add more flat frontal area to that thing was to add a bug deflector to the top of the hood.
I wonder how much faster it'd go if it was a similar weight/power In something that didn't present 6x4' wall to the air at 160 mph.
Remember the F4?
18,000 lb payload, Vulcan Canon, Mach 2.2, Set 15 flight performance records, and lovingly referred to as "The Flying Brick".
Been bringin' the pain since 1958.
They never did streamline it. They just kept adding more power. 
skyline247
Advanced Member
Key words: similar weight/power
Add enough power and anything will go fast...no one hits their drag limit in the 1/4 mile right?
By the way, I love what you are doing with the car.
Yeah...that thing was great at dumping the payload and getting the f out. It was successful because no one could catch up once it got going. I read a book by a former F4 pilot...he had some great stories.Remember the F4?
18,000 lb payload, Vulcan Canon, Mach 2.2, Set 15 flight performance records, and lovingly referred to as "The Flying Brick".
Been bringin' the pain since 1958.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Along the lines of larger, more obnoxious changes, I drug the tail light assys out of their box, and went about the process of installing the LED panels into the tail light backers.
A fairly cheesy setup, the 68 Shelby sequencing tail light kit cost me 279.00 a year ago. For that, you just get the LED panel kit by itself. For another couple of hundred, you get the bezels, lenses, gaskets, and buckets. Judging from the photos, the buckets used to be metal, similar to the factory. what came in my bargain basement priced kit were two abs pieces instead.
No big deal actually, considering that you have to modify those buckets to fit the car by trimming the lip off of them. Had they been metal, that would've required a grinder and cut off wheel. Since they were plastic, all that was required was a pair of snips.
The really sturdy mounting system is what I'm most impressed with. The instructions stipulate that each panel be "secured" with a bead of silicone. (can you imagine how careful you'd have to be not to move those panels that were just sitting in a blob of silicon for however long it takes that junk to cure?)
I used a hot glue gun to hold it in place, then I added the silicone.
I kept checking while I did that to make sure the panels were working like they were supposed to, it went just like it's s'posed to.
I Got the call to pick up my center panel that will be mounted between the tails. It's not exactly as I envisioned it would be, and the font isn't as displayed on the guys computer, but I believe that I can make it liveable.
Probably be two 1/4 x 1/4" ribs above, and below the text w/ a 3/8" stand off. I'll line the inside of the thing w/ a very thin piece of lexan to keep the critters out and possibly treat the back sid eof the lexan similarly as to the way I did the front TS lenses with the black perf'd mesh, so you wont be able to see the LED strip lighting inside. The thing will be painted matte black, and the tops of the fins polished off.
I ordered those lights this morning they'll look like this:
I ordered a 60" length. As you can see from the pics, you just cut them to the appropriate length. If you want to, you just solder two more wires on to another section, and tie it to the main section, and you can add rows of these things stacked on top of each other. They're weather proof, and they mount w/ that 3M double sticky emblem adhesive.
I'm gonna alternate the rows, 1 white, 1 red. When the headlights are on, the CYCLONE will illuminate in red. When I back up, they'll go white. I'll just use a standard 5pin 30 amp relay to toggle between whichever signal is coming, and the red will go out, and the white will come on.
They wont be no where near as bright as a single 1156 bulb though. A single 1156 bulb gives off about 400 lumens, and these little weanie strips give off about 146 lumens per foot.
But,.....I get to stack them, and then the number multiplies. 3 rows will yield 450 lumens, and that will be good enough to convince the police officer doing my safety inspection that I have back up lights.
A fairly cheesy setup, the 68 Shelby sequencing tail light kit cost me 279.00 a year ago. For that, you just get the LED panel kit by itself. For another couple of hundred, you get the bezels, lenses, gaskets, and buckets. Judging from the photos, the buckets used to be metal, similar to the factory. what came in my bargain basement priced kit were two abs pieces instead.
No big deal actually, considering that you have to modify those buckets to fit the car by trimming the lip off of them. Had they been metal, that would've required a grinder and cut off wheel. Since they were plastic, all that was required was a pair of snips.
The really sturdy mounting system is what I'm most impressed with. The instructions stipulate that each panel be "secured" with a bead of silicone. (can you imagine how careful you'd have to be not to move those panels that were just sitting in a blob of silicon for however long it takes that junk to cure?)
I used a hot glue gun to hold it in place, then I added the silicone.
I kept checking while I did that to make sure the panels were working like they were supposed to, it went just like it's s'posed to.
I Got the call to pick up my center panel that will be mounted between the tails. It's not exactly as I envisioned it would be, and the font isn't as displayed on the guys computer, but I believe that I can make it liveable.
Probably be two 1/4 x 1/4" ribs above, and below the text w/ a 3/8" stand off. I'll line the inside of the thing w/ a very thin piece of lexan to keep the critters out and possibly treat the back sid eof the lexan similarly as to the way I did the front TS lenses with the black perf'd mesh, so you wont be able to see the LED strip lighting inside. The thing will be painted matte black, and the tops of the fins polished off.
I ordered those lights this morning they'll look like this:
I ordered a 60" length. As you can see from the pics, you just cut them to the appropriate length. If you want to, you just solder two more wires on to another section, and tie it to the main section, and you can add rows of these things stacked on top of each other. They're weather proof, and they mount w/ that 3M double sticky emblem adhesive.
I'm gonna alternate the rows, 1 white, 1 red. When the headlights are on, the CYCLONE will illuminate in red. When I back up, they'll go white. I'll just use a standard 5pin 30 amp relay to toggle between whichever signal is coming, and the red will go out, and the white will come on.
They wont be no where near as bright as a single 1156 bulb though. A single 1156 bulb gives off about 400 lumens, and these little weanie strips give off about 146 lumens per foot.
But,.....I get to stack them, and then the number multiplies. 3 rows will yield 450 lumens, and that will be good enough to convince the police officer doing my safety inspection that I have back up lights.
Remember the F4?
18,000 lb payload, Vulcan Canon, Mach 2.2, Set 15 flight performance records, and lovingly referred to as "The Flying Brick".
Been bringin' the pain since 1958.
Love that plane,...When we moved to B'ham in the late 80's the 117th ANG base here was a recon wing still flying the Phantom. Cool as hell to hear them flying overhead.
Ohh,......and Comparing that "brick" to the other one, is like comparing the edge of a spoon to the one on a katana.
BTW,....you cannot stump me on any Military warbird. Any one of them back to WWII. I've got all the fold out books, and walls covered with that kinda stuff.
And along the lines of bricks,......I especially like this one.
Women,......what can possibly be wrong with them when they look like that?
And all they have to do is "be".
Ohhh yeah, ....Love me a Warthog too. All done in photoshop.
Last edited:
- Dec 19, 2010
- 5,719
- 4,238
- 224
Love that plane,...When we moved to B'ham in the late 80's the 117th ANG base here was a recon wing still flying the Phantom. Cool as hell to hear them flying overhead.
Ohh,......and Comparing that "brick" to the other one, is like comparing the edge of a spoon to the one on a katana.
BTW,....you cannot stump me on any Military warbird. Any one of them back to WWII. I've got all the fold out books, and walls covered with that kinda stuff.
And along the lines of bricks,......I especially like this one.
Women,......what can possibly be wrong with them when they look like that?
And all they have to do is "be".
Ohhh yeah, ....Love me a Warthog too. All done in photoshop.
Love me some BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRT!!!!
- Dec 19, 2010
- 5,719
- 4,238
- 224
The Air Force wanted to retire the A-10 in spite of the fact that they had nothing that could do close air support as well as the A-10. I suspect the motive was more money for the flying money black hole F-35. Congress forced the Air Force' hand and extended the A-10's lifetime to 2020 or later.
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