Agreed. And dammit I wish I completed my build. It was theoretically going to be in the 1.3-1.35 range(according to my cam designer/and dyno tuner). And be under 6200rpms peak rpms. This is always going to bother me.
Fox Why I Should Not Do A Solid Lifter High Compression Motor
- Thread starter Noobz347
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hahah WINNING!
and for what its worth... im running comp enduro X lifters in my new motor... and we run comp elite in the turbo motor.
the old nitrous motor we ran had a .998" lift solid roller on the same lifters. never gave us an issue
we did have an issue breaking one in the turbo motor but that was caused by pushrod flex. which has been fixed with a big heavy ass push rod
we did have an issue breaking one in the turbo motor but that was caused by pushrod flex. which has been fixed with a big heavy ass push rod
I wouldnt put comps in a street motor, too many documented failures and quality issues to take the risk. The street driving is much worse for the lifter than the racing portion.
Also @Noobz347 as far as brakes go, i was using a vacuum canister for the past couple years but finally made the switch to manual brakes with maximum motorsports kit. I am in the middle of the install of the brakes right now. You may be OK with power brakes if the cam isnt too aggressive.
Also @Noobz347 as far as brakes go, i was using a vacuum canister for the past couple years but finally made the switch to manual brakes with maximum motorsports kit. I am in the middle of the install of the brakes right now. You may be OK with power brakes if the cam isnt too aggressive.
HotFox
15 Year Member
No regrets here, making 1.4 hp per cube at the wheels. I used Crane Cams lifters just before they went out of business. My FTI cam duration is 238/248 with .664/.633" lift., that cam will pull this car around in 5th gear all the way down to 1200 and not complain. I purposely told Ed at FTI that I would give up some top end to have some street manners. No issues with vacume brakes, in fact put a booster back on when I went 5 lug.
Probably have 4k miles on the car adjust valves every spring, if I know car is sitting I will pull the rockers to relieve the springs, or roll the motor over by hand once a month to put pressure on different springs. I have replaced valve springs once so far.
Probably have 4k miles on the car adjust valves every spring, if I know car is sitting I will pull the rockers to relieve the springs, or roll the motor over by hand once a month to put pressure on different springs. I have replaced valve springs once so far.
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NIce... I'll be interested to see what results you get from the manual brake kit. Read a bunch of those where things didn't pan out as expected but the person doing the mod generally does some questionable things to get there. heh
What exactly didnt pan out? I hope it works out for me, i didnt really want to do it but i felt it was the right thing to do. I think i have the properly sized master and the MM kit provides some engineering into the pedal that others dont offer so i feel i am in good shape.
skyline247
Advanced Member
Go big or go home Noobz. [emoji57]
Sounds like the beginnings of a great build thread...
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Sounds like the beginnings of a great build thread...
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
noobz... my vote is a 408 if you aren't already committed to a 302 based block. So much easier to get 500+ hp while keeping everything together. Buddy of mine has a stroked 351 out to 427 with a Kenne bell- he's making 840 rwhp and he drives it all the time.
Not to hijack but keep us posted on this. I think I need a vac canister myself . Car stops but is so so at idle vac wise
Let me see......if I was gonna build a N/A flat tappet engine, and I wanted it to be fun as hell, have back breaking grunt, (500-600 RWTQ) rev-able to 6500-7k w/o having to worry about breaking sht, wanted it to cackle and pop indicative of a high lift, long duration camshaft,...and wanted to do it as cheaply as possible w/ all things considered...What would I do.........????
Oh wait! I've already did it.
Here's the blueprint for a 7.0 consistent 1/8th mile ( 11.14's in the 1/4) that you drive in the gate on pump premium, that'll sound outright obnoxious, have enough torque to carry the front tires 2' in the air, and 20' out on slicks looking every bit like a super stocker, run cool as a cuke, last for freakin ever, and stop like it's stock.
And I did it three years straight back in the late 90's.
Ready?
Grocery List:
1. seasoned 460 block..................................................................................................200.00
8. reconditioned stock rods w/ bolts replaced..............................................................150.00
1 polished stock crank.................................................................................................. 65.00
8 forged stock replacement pistons (Used to be TRW 2404f now speed pro).............370.00
1 4.390 bore .030 over moly file fit ring set .................................................................200.00
1 Comp cam mechanical flat tappet cam kit.... 605/ 605 294/294 Cam, lifters, springs, timing chain
.....................................................................................................................................460.00
1 set seasoned JY 429 Thunderjet T bird heads.........................................................200.00
8 manley SS intake valves..2.19".................................................................................80.00
8 manley SS exhaust valves........................................................................................80.00
Boom! 7.0 somethings all summer long.....I had about 800.00 bucks in the machined short block.
I didn't put an intake on there because I used a Weiand stealth dual plane and a 750 vacuum secondary carb to complete my El-Cheapo stock bottom ended Chevy killer. When I added plate nitrous (to a dual plane intake manifold) this car stepped up and ran 6.50's......and when I stacked another "Mike modified" power shot plate on top of that the car picked up again to run 6.37-6.40. And I put bottle after bottle of nitrous through that engine.
I finally killed it after being prodded by my "friends" to grab both kits off the line, and the car responded w/ a 6.22 once.
The very next attempt to back that up ended with water pouring out one of the headers. Detonated the bloody hell out of it on the last pass, split #7 cylinder wall clean open.
( the fact that I was running a dual plane that probably leaned out #7, was still running 37 degrees of timing, and used the same 93 octane premium as my enrichment fuel might of contributed to that............I think)
This was by far the most fun engine I've ever built, It was so blatantly cheap, I kept the stock valve covers, Used a stock duraspark distributor, had a MSD 6 (not even an "A") ignition. I forget where I sourced the pan, but there is even a stock double sump pan for it. It was the perfect answer to all the southern Chevy boys that kept telling me that a Ford cost more to build than a comparable Chevy.
Oh wait! I've already did it.
Here's the blueprint for a 7.0 consistent 1/8th mile ( 11.14's in the 1/4) that you drive in the gate on pump premium, that'll sound outright obnoxious, have enough torque to carry the front tires 2' in the air, and 20' out on slicks looking every bit like a super stocker, run cool as a cuke, last for freakin ever, and stop like it's stock.
And I did it three years straight back in the late 90's.
Ready?
Grocery List:
1. seasoned 460 block..................................................................................................200.00
8. reconditioned stock rods w/ bolts replaced..............................................................150.00
1 polished stock crank.................................................................................................. 65.00
8 forged stock replacement pistons (Used to be TRW 2404f now speed pro).............370.00
1 4.390 bore .030 over moly file fit ring set .................................................................200.00
1 Comp cam mechanical flat tappet cam kit.... 605/ 605 294/294 Cam, lifters, springs, timing chain
.....................................................................................................................................460.00
1 set seasoned JY 429 Thunderjet T bird heads.........................................................200.00
8 manley SS intake valves..2.19".................................................................................80.00
8 manley SS exhaust valves........................................................................................80.00
Boom! 7.0 somethings all summer long.....I had about 800.00 bucks in the machined short block.
I didn't put an intake on there because I used a Weiand stealth dual plane and a 750 vacuum secondary carb to complete my El-Cheapo stock bottom ended Chevy killer. When I added plate nitrous (to a dual plane intake manifold) this car stepped up and ran 6.50's......and when I stacked another "Mike modified" power shot plate on top of that the car picked up again to run 6.37-6.40. And I put bottle after bottle of nitrous through that engine.
I finally killed it after being prodded by my "friends" to grab both kits off the line, and the car responded w/ a 6.22 once.
The very next attempt to back that up ended with water pouring out one of the headers. Detonated the bloody hell out of it on the last pass, split #7 cylinder wall clean open.
( the fact that I was running a dual plane that probably leaned out #7, was still running 37 degrees of timing, and used the same 93 octane premium as my enrichment fuel might of contributed to that............I think)
This was by far the most fun engine I've ever built, It was so blatantly cheap, I kept the stock valve covers, Used a stock duraspark distributor, had a MSD 6 (not even an "A") ignition. I forget where I sourced the pan, but there is even a stock double sump pan for it. It was the perfect answer to all the southern Chevy boys that kept telling me that a Ford cost more to build than a comparable Chevy.
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I may need a towel.
Project: Cheap and Ugly (ok, maybe this needs work)
You may be onto something here Mike. I really didn't want to go through all the prep and expense of an R block etc.. again.
Don't get me wrong... I'd love to do a big cube stroker but to do that right, is going to be another $10k in motor just like the Sportsman.
What's more, is that if the Wild Hare bites me again, I'll send the V1 in for a V3 and press harder.
This could be sick. It may be exactly what the supporting mods on the white car are looking for.
What kind of nightmare was the accessory drive and transmission? What did your final compression end up being? It sounds like there was room for more.
Project: Cheap and Ugly (ok, maybe this needs work)
You may be onto something here Mike. I really didn't want to go through all the prep and expense of an R block etc.. again.
Don't get me wrong... I'd love to do a big cube stroker but to do that right, is going to be another $10k in motor just like the Sportsman.
What's more, is that if the Wild Hare bites me again, I'll send the V1 in for a V3 and press harder.
This could be sick. It may be exactly what the supporting mods on the white car are looking for.
What kind of nightmare was the accessory drive and transmission? What did your final compression end up being? It sounds like there was room for more.
- Dec 19, 2010
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I may need a towel.
Project: Cheap and Ugly (ok, maybe this needs work)
You may be onto something here Mike. I really didn't want to go through all the prep and expense of an R block etc.. again.
Don't get me wrong... I'd love to do a big cube stroker but to do that right, is going to be another $10k in motor just like the Sportsman.
What's more, is that if the Wild Hare bites me again, I'll send the V1 in for a V3 and press harder.
This could be sick. It may be exactly what the supporting mods on the white car are looking for.
What kind of nightmare was the accessory drive and transmission? What did your final compression end up being? It sounds like there was room for more.
If you are running a tko or a 3550, I'm pretty sure bellhousings are available for big block. Almost certain.
Given what we've talked about in this thread so far:
What do you all think... Maybe a 2-speed or 3-speed? Manual?
The 89 is setup for a manual currently. All of my fun cars have been manual.
This is the primary reason why I ask:
View: https://youtu.be/sPkSlhYWOe4
BWAAAAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHA!
I want this without the parachute and track gear. :bigazzmuvereffingrinsmiley:
Taking thoughts for and against!
I have the MM manual brake kit on my drag car. With non vented lightweight drag brakes my 160 to 0 stop distance is only 1320 feet at 3,150 lbs. I am sure that with "better" brakes that what I am using, the manual brakes will be fine. Plus access/clearance on the drivers side is so much better without the booster and M/C moved back to firewall. Plus it drops some weight out of the car.
Given what we've talked about in this thread so far:
What do you all think... Maybe a 2-speed or 3-speed? Manual?
The 89 is setup for a manual currently. All of my fun cars have been manual.
This is the primary reason why I ask:
View: https://youtu.be/sPkSlhYWOe4
BWAAAAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHA!
I want this without the parachute and track gear. :bigazzmuvereffingrinsmiley:
Taking thoughts for and against!
Count me for, but I am biased. A glide based trans is lightweight and it consumes a lot less HP than most other auto trans. A good built C-4 will take a ton of abuse to a point, just dont throw 1k HP at it and expect anything more than a half dozen passes out of it. The C-4 is also small and light compaered to AOD/4R70W trans. Both the C-4 and glide based trans offer superior exhaust clearance compared to other auto trans.
This is good stuff. I've already got a Stang with A/C and Power blah blah... So being a bit Spartan with this one is not a bad thing.
I at some point intend to teach my daughter how drive this thing JUST so I can see the look on the douche clown faces when she rolls up in it. lol
I at some point intend to teach my daughter how drive this thing JUST so I can see the look on the douche clown faces when she rolls up in it. lol
Durability/consistency = automatic
Fun = built manual
Also a 3 speed auto can be done a lot cheaper
And if it's just straight line cheap you're going for...you can't beat cubic inches. I'd either do a stroker 351(393-408 stock block) or a 460 build
Fun = built manual
Also a 3 speed auto can be done a lot cheaper
And if it's just straight line cheap you're going for...you can't beat cubic inches. I'd either do a stroker 351(393-408 stock block) or a 460 build
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