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THIS is what happens when you screw with your work schedule and try taking Wednesday off Mike.

Maybe think about changing the title of the build to Murphy's Law?

You got it Mike, walk away, drive a German car or two around, forget about it. Grab some of the stuff we talked about and you'll get it on Sunday. Remember, SOLID support in the area you're forming it. Besides that, it will form easier, that support will absorb most of the energy from the hammer blows and keep them from stretching the surrounding metal.

Maybe an old stop sign glued underneath? :nono: NO, says the finger......

No, Dave....It doesn't matter what day I take off.

The Monster don't care. The Monster exists solely to Fck with me. For the Monster it's a 24 hour, 7 day a week regimen.

I know this now.

It says that Gila Monsters are venomous. I'm calling BS on that. I've been bitten so many times squarely in the ass by this monster, that if they were truly venomous,..Id be dead.
 
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So then,...You're looking for me for a hood, and all you come up with is a T-shirt?

Besides,...that fairmont on the T shirt is pictured w/ a hood,.....I don't have a hood. I have a Bonafide Ioweegian piece of garage wall art.

Sucks when that happens, doesnt it?

PS, have you never seen/heard that saying, "I came all the way here/did all that, and all I got was this lousy t-shirt?" Yup, just did that for ya. There are no such hoods to be found on Ebay, but there were some nice front fenders, and cool old manuals and such.
 
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No, Dave....It doesn't matter what day I take off.

The Monster don't care. The Monster exists solely to Fck with me. For the Monster it's a 24 hour, 7 day a week regimen.

I know this now.

It says that Gila Monsters are venomous. I'm calling BS on that. I've been bitten so many times squarely in the ass by this monster, that if they were truly venomous,..Id be dead.
Maybe you already died and are in G Monster hell. :zombie:
 
Sucks when that happens, doesnt it?

PS, have you never seen/heard that saying, "I came all the way here/did all that, and all I got was this lousy t-shirt?" Yup, just did that for ya. There are no such hoods to be found on Ebay, but there were some nice front fenders, and cool old manuals and such.

The only replacement hood for this car would be off of another. If it was a drag car, there are a few hideous raceweight fiberglass examples out there but,...it's no drag car. But It is a "cause me to drag my ass" car.

So I got that going for me,.........which is nice.

Maybe you already died and are in G Monster hell. :zombie:

That's it. Makes sense. On the other thread I discovered I'm stupid, and on this one I just learned that I'm actually dead.

Stupid + Dead = Zombie.

I'm a freakin car building Zombie. That's why I can't ever get sht to turn out right, and it's taking forever. Why cant I just stagger around and be content to eat brains like all of the other normal Zombies?

:dammit:
 
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A question for the anointed.

In other words, that would be one of you 12.

99B0F0A5-BF4B-4A49-9DE5-70510110AECE_zpspqjkeyww.jpg

B8F38889-58E8-4F88-BCB1-B881CE7DCBD6_zpskjbom4ds.jpg


Orange on top, or black on top?

See the metal top band will be visible above the door panel. The door will be orange, but frame around the window (like all of our frames), will be black. But, I'm not sure about that top band. When the door is open, you're gonna see all of that orange around the perimeter (because there is a 1/2" reveal around the edge of the door panel). So I was thinking that the part that spans the top edge will/should be the same.
I'm painting these doors, and the back side of the trunk tomorrow. I figured I'd give the 5-6 of you that pay attention the opportunity to chime in, maybe even I'll get the entire contingent to comment if they have absolutely nothing better to do.

C'mon,......you can do it...I won't bite you......SAY it!
 
A question for the anointed.

In other words, that would be one of you 12.

99B0F0A5-BF4B-4A49-9DE5-70510110AECE_zpspqjkeyww.jpg

B8F38889-58E8-4F88-BCB1-B881CE7DCBD6_zpskjbom4ds.jpg


Orange on top, or black on top?

See the metal top band will be visible above the door panel. The door will be orange, but frame around the window (like all of our frames), will be black. But, I'm not sure about that top band. When the door is open, you're gonna see all of that orange around the perimeter (because there is a 1/2" reveal around the edge of the door panel). So I was thinking that the part that spans the top edge will/should be the same.
I'm painting these doors, and the back side of the trunk tomorrow. I figured I'd give the 5-6 of you that pay attention the opportunity to chime in, maybe even I'll get the entire contingent to comment if they have absolutely nothing better to do.

C'mon,......you can do it...I won't bite you......SAY it!
Where else in the interior will there be orange showing, or what accents of orange will be in it?
 
Then I think it would be better to be black. If that would be the only orange in the interior, it would look out of place.

If you choose to put some accents of orange in the interior, I would be minimal and careful in it's placement. I've seen too many cars, including ones in the magazines that have it thrown all over the insides. They look like a pimp's car (it's ok, I guess if you wish to entrepreneur in that field).

Simple and minimal. That's what I'd do on the interior with the exterior color. You've already chosen a very nice color combination for the insides.
 
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BLACK. Preferably in hotrod or satin sheen. Let the orange be on the outside, on the inside of a Gila monster there is probably only bile and various shades of decay....

Well cant say that I've looked inside of an actual G monster, but I'd imagine it's black in there too. The only thing that's in various shades of decay in the inside of my monster is me.
 
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I'm bored mike.... I want data log and tune file from monster...... me makie it runz better.
What are you talkin about? the thing runs like crap. It'll barely idle until the WB takes control, and only then will it settle down. Revving the engine after that didn't give me any warm and fuzzies either.
Couple that to the fact that one of the outputs will not control the WP,..the engine never gets up to temp when I run the wp full time,...and in the end,...anything you can do will make it run better.

Matter of fact,...I was kinda expecting it. (hopefully, I won't have to fly you in too)
 
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What are you talkin about? the thing runs like crap. It'll barely idle until the WB takes control, and only then will it settle down. Revving the engine after that didn't give me any warm and fuzzies either.
Couple that to the fact that one of the outputs will not control the WP,..the engine never gets up to temp when I run the wp full time,...and in the end,...anything you can do will make it run better.

Matter of fact,...I was kinda expecting it. (hopefully, I won't have to fly you in too)
Nope. Just give me full control of your laptop via teamviewer. Mwwwahahahahah!
It's all super-duper simple really, maybe I will load a f'd up tune to my car and video myself setting it up and doing real tuning to show the results of different functions and how they work.
 
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I remember allllllll the work you posted to get that other head to work. That's why I wonder if this would work for a mere mortal.
Some tweaks for Corvair heads (that also have an integral cast manifold log and head) are to put a top on like this with 4 little carbs on a six cylinder. Or to shave off the whole log down to a flat face head. Then, at least two places made a pair of manifolds for the shaved heads that fit a Porsche carb on each side of the motor that has three barrels in one long carb body. Yes, that's one barrel per cylinder. I hear you can forget about a factory idle, but they spin well.

Like I said, I was looking for an answer I could actually get to run. Do you know if these work well enough to bother with on Ford straight sixes?
I am used to Clifford manifolds on removeable manifold sixes. (Like the 225 Dodge.)

Anyway, don't loose hope! Your car will be cool, unique and worth it again.

It's commonly done. The old log mainifold is milled/cut/ground off the allow that piece to bolt on to accommodate three 1bbl's or 3 TB's that effectively even's out the distribution between the intake ports.

I don't have that head on the Monster. I have an Australian aluminum cross flow that is very similar to a Cleveland head inasmuch as it has canted valves, and actually uses the 1.73 cleveland rocker ratio with the intake on one side of the head, and the exhaust on the other.

( Well,...the "stock" version used a 1.73 Cleveland rocker,....my head uses a Crower chrome moly 1.75 offset trunion roller rocker to operate SBC, and BBC valves respectively)
 
I remember allllllll the work you posted to get that other head to work. That's why I wonder if this would work for a mere mortal.
Some tweaks for Corvair heads (that also have an integral cast manifold log and head) are to put a top on like this with 4 little carbs on a six cylinder. Or to shave off the whole log down to a flat face head. Then, at least two places made a pair of manifolds for the shaved heads that fit a Porsche carb on each side of the motor that has three barrels in one long carb body. Yes, that's one barrel per cylinder. I hear you can forget about a factory idle, but they spin well.

Like I said, I was looking for an answer I could actually get to run. Do you know if these work well enough to bother with on Ford straight sixes?
I am used to Clifford manifolds on removeable manifold sixes. (Like the 225 Dodge.)

Anyway, don't loose hope! Your car will be cool, unique and worth it again.
if its fuel injected you can make anything happen. or use a few tbi setups. either way I have a MS function for that.
 
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I vote black Mike. Orange would draw the eye away from all the other awesomeness you build into the interior IMO. If you're going to add some "extra" orange cues...then the orange would probably be cool but I'm kind of boring in that respect. Afterall...I own a mustang ya know:D
 
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I remember allllllll the work you posted to get that other head to work. That's why I wonder if this would work for a mere mortal.
Some tweaks for Corvair heads (that also have an integral cast manifold log and head) are to put a top on like this with 4 little carbs on a six cylinder. Or to shave off the whole log down to a flat face head. Then, at least two places made a pair of manifolds for the shaved heads that fit a Porsche carb on each side of the motor that has three barrels in one long carb body. Yes, that's one barrel per cylinder. I hear you can forget about a factory idle, but they spin well.

Like I said, I was looking for an answer I could actually get to run. Do you know if these work well enough to bother with on Ford straight sixes?
I am used to Clifford manifolds on removeable manifold sixes. (Like the 225 Dodge.)

Anyway, don't loose hope! Your car will be cool, unique and worth it again.
Ok,...If you are actually considering coming over to the "not quite dark" side, the modification you are talking about is done all the time. I cannot testify as to how well it works, but it must because (like I said) people do it all the time.

It's a carburetor mod though. Even though you could put three small TB's there instead, where would you put the injectors? There isn't enough room to put the stupid things anywhere, and where you end up putting them requires that you modify the valve cover base. You'll have to pull a Mike, and do some serious gluein' and screwin' to make F.I. work on that head.

The more popular mod is to direct mate a Holley 350cfm 2bbl directly to the log manifold.

Matter of fact,...you just gotta be wrong in the head to mess with one of them.

This is the way I see how well you guys will take the notion of modifying one of these dinosaurs, and it'll all depend on how well the monster's engine does.

Granted, the monster's engine is a step off a cliff w/ regard to a really insane level of modification, but there are other guys making big power similar to what I'm gonna quote using an aftermarket aluminum version of the stock head, flat tappet cam, blowin through a carb,...w/ an unknown sized turbo (I'm thinkin smaller than mine) pounding in 17 lbs of boost.

445 RWHP, @ 4300 502 RWTQ @ 2650

Everything I have is either bigger, or better than this combo. I'm using a solid roller cam, I've got a canted valve head, I'm injected, but most importantly, I don't have a hot assed exhaust manifold directly beneath the intake manifold heat soaking the snot out of it.. The Only thing I'm hobbled by is a stock head gasket. Because of that, I'm guessing I'll probably stop at 10psi.

So,...just when it gets honkin, I'm gonna open the wastegates and keep it all alive.
My goal is 350-400 RWHP, and 450 RWTQ
 
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