Maf Suggestions

I bought a reman 93 Cobra MAF (70 mm, direct fit replacement) & housing from the local auto parts store and installed my stock sensor in it.

The stock housings have the bar that runs through the middle of the housing. My understanding is this bar is to cancel out back-pressure spikes at the sensor that can cause false readings. If you can find one with this feature, it is better than running a housing that doesnt have it.

bad idea. You do not swap sensors from housing to housing. The sensors are specific to the housing. Swapping the electonics from a 70MM to a 58MM o vice versa housing is not correct. They are not calibrated for the differerent diameter housing.
 
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Let me ask a dumb question.

Is that different than putting the stock sensor of a earlier car in a 1994 mustang housing?

Its the exact same thing if I'm not mistaken?

My take on the matter is a 93 cobra and a regular 93 mustang have the same intake design. The air should flow through both systems rather symmetrically as long as a cold air intake or some kind of cone filter isn't just slapped over the end of the MAF.
 
I'm just curious. Thats why I'm asking. I'm aware of the problems caused by changing too much in the intake tract. (I used to have a C&L housing)

Is the MAF sensor for a 94 mustang the same as a maf sensor from a 93 and earlier?

If its not the same, is someone selling a 94 housing with a calibrated sensor for the 93 and earlier?

Edit: I see from jrichkers post that it is a different sensor.
 
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Technically can I run the sensors listed for the 94 - 95 in a 93 cobra housing?

Per the technical specs, the housing is dimensionally & functionally the same except for the square flange termination versus a tube for the 93 cobra.
 
Swapping the MAF sensors between different MAFs is a big no no. The MAF body and sensor are designed to match each other. Therefore you can't swap sensors between different part number MAF bodies and maintain proper calibration. The assembly is designed to match the computer’s internal program, and swapping a different MAF can upset the computer's calibration. In other words, your monster MAF probably won't match the calibration of your 5.0 Mustang computer.

The OEM Ford MAFs are not calibrated to injector size. The injector sizing is done in the computer’s internal programming. Aftermarket MAF’s “lie” to the computer in an attempt to fool the computer into changing the injector pulse on timing to match the increased airflow.

The exception to the above statements is if you have an aftermarket tuner system such as Moates Quarterhorse, Tweecer, or similar device. Then you can alter the computer's MAF transfer function table to match whatever MAF housing and sensor you have. The tuner device works in conjunction with a high quality Air/Fuel ratio meter so that you can tell what sort of air/fuel mixture you have a any given time.

The only other MAF that is a one for one swap for a 93 and earlier 5.0 Mustang is the 94-95 Mustang MAF.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

Once your replacement 70MM MAF is in place, disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes. When you reconnect the battery and start the engine, the computer will relearn the settings for the new MAF.

*1.) Metal flange adapter http://www.kustomz.com/cat3.html Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
 
Sorry- missed the part in the video where it shows the A/F meter and 11:1 . It's your car and obviously you want to try and make a point, but pllease don't give out bad advice.

As explained, the EEC is what is calibrated to the Injectors on stock Ford MAF's. The MAF meter has a sensor in it and the EEC reads the ratio of the inside diameter of the meter. to help the EEC calculate things like fuel curves. If you put a sensor into a larger/smaller meter then you throw off the calculations the EEC is going to read. Take for instance.......... the 1993 Cobra, it runs 24 Lb Injectors and it uses a different EEC(X3Z) vs the stock 1993 GT with 19lb injectors and a EEC (A9L/P). The inside diameter of a 1994 GTor 93 Cobra is 70MM MAF housing and a 1993GT is 58MM MAF housing-tell me how the electronics calibrated for one size works in the other again? You have to be careful not to peg the voltage that the EEC reads from the MAF.

Here is some additional reading on MAF theory

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/583.shtml

I'm out...
 
Sorry- missed the part in the video where it shows the A/F meter and 11:1 . It's your car and obviously you want to try and make a point, but pllease don't give out bad advice.

As explained, the EEC is what is calibrated to the Injectors on stock Ford MAF's. The MAF meter has a sensor in it and the EEC reads the ratio of the inside diameter of the meter. to help the EEC calculate things like fuel curves. If you put a sensor into a larger/smaller meter then you throw off the calculations the EEC is going to read. Take for instance.......... the 1993 Cobra, it runs 24 Lb Injectors and it uses a different EEC(X3Z) vs the stock 1993 GT with 19lb injectors and a EEC (A9L/P). The inside diameter of a 1994 GTor 93 Cobra is 70MM MAF housing and a 1993GT is 58MM MAF housing-tell me how the electronics calibrated for one size works in the other again? You have to be careful not to peg the voltage that the EEC reads from the MAF.

Here is some additional reading on MAF theory

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/583.shtml

I'm out...

I addition to ^this^:


I think that the thing that a lot of folks forget is that a Mass Air Sensor takes only a SAMPLE of the air that is flowing through the housing. Let's take this one for instance:
index-jpeg.559064.jpg


Let's assume that these two hosings (for the purpose of discussion) are exactly the same size and say that they are each 70mm housings.
Let's also assume for this discussion, that they flow the same CFM under identical circumstances.
Each of these housings sample air passing though it, at a different location. The one on the left has an obvious sample port and is designed and tuned to calculate (the best that it can), the total air volume passing through it as a formula of the whole.

Now the one on the right has the sample port in a different location. Air movement through this housing is going to differ from air movement for the housing on the left. As a result, a different calculation is used to determine the total volume of air passing though it.

What happens if we just swap the sensors on these two housings?

The answer is that the each of them is going to be less accurate because it is not sitting within the housing that it was designed and tuned for.

As JR and Mike have illustrated, the sensors themselves are designed to provide a specific output for a specific volume of air that passes over the sensor. This volume of air is 'calculated' to be an accurate representation of the total mass of air (versus being an actual measurement of the total mass of air).

Changing even the pattern of air as it passes over the sample port, can provide you with some erratic results. If you've ever had to re-clock a MAF because of some sillyness, then you know what I'm taking about. Swapping sensors into NEW/DIFFERENT housings is problematic when trying to uses these kinds of "assemblies" with an OEM EEC.

Aftermarket and/or standalone units are slightly different. They can look at input from many sensors and re-calculate the transfer function of an unknown MAF. Some do it better than others. OEM computers are not designed to compensate for this specifically but can adjust within a tolerance of roughly 20% (that's 10% above and below the base line). That's not very much. It's enough to allow for slight variations in assembly tolerances. Most stock vehicles are generally into and make use of about 5% of the available adjustment just because of differences in pump gas alone. For simplicity, I'll leave engine condition out of this scenario.

Now consider for a moment, that you've discovered an assembly and sensor that is dead on at idle but varies ever so slightly as air-flow increases. At the top of your transfer function (before you get into the WOT fuel table), your sensor output is going to be either above or below expected output as volume increases. Exactly how much depends on the sensor/housing combo. The point in this event, is whether or not the output signal is still within that +/- 10% of the adaptive strategy.

You really want to screw things up? Use replaceable sample tubes. Their primary function is to cause aggravation and thoughts of suicide. Why? Because small changes in airflow can have large effects when you are 'sampling' and not measuring the total volume of air.
 
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I addition to ^this^:


I think that the thing that a lot of folks forget is that a Mass Air Sensor takes only a SAMPLE of the air that is flowing through the housing. Let's take this one for instance:
index-jpeg.559064.jpg


Let's assume that these two hosings (for the purpose of discussion) are exactly the same size and say that they are each 70mm housings.
Let's also assume for this discussion, that they flow the same CFM under identical circumstances.
Each of these housings sample air passing though it, at a different location. The one on the left has an obvious sample port and is designed and tuned to calculate (the best that it can), the total air volume passing through it as a formula of the whole.

Now the one on the right has the sample port in a different location. Air movement through this housing is going to differ from air movement for the housing on the left. As a result, a different calculation is used to determine the total volume of air passing though it.

What happens if we just swap the sensors on these two housings?

The answer is that the each of them is going to be less accurate because it is not sitting within the housing that it was designed and tuned for.

As JR and Mike have illustrated, the sensors themselves are designed to provide a specific output for a specific volume of air that passes over the sensor. This volume of air is 'calculated' to be an accurate representation of the total mass of air (versus being an actual calculation of the total mass of air).

Changing even the pattern of air as it passes over the sample port, can provide you with some erratic results. If you've ever had to re-clock a MAF because of some sillyness, then you know what I'm taking about. Swapping sensors into NEW/DIFFERENT housings is problematic when trying to uses these kinds of "assemblies" with an OEM EEC.

Aftermarket and/or standalone units are slightly different. They can look at input from many sensors and re-calculate the transfer function of an unknown MAF. Some do it better than others. OEM computers are not designed to compensate for this specifically but can adjust within a tolerance of roughly 20% (that's 10% above and below the base line). That's not very much. It's enough to allow for slight variations in assembly tolerances. Most stock vehicles are generally into and make use of about 5% of the available adjustment just because of differences in pump gas alone. For simplicity, I'll leave engine condition out of this scenario.

Now consider for a moment, that you've discovered a an assembly and sensor that is dead on at idle but varies ever so slightly as air-flow increases. At the top of your transfer function (before you get into the WOT fuel table), your sensor output is going to be either above or below expected output as volume increases. Exactly how much depends on the sensor/housing combo. The point in this event, is whether or not the output signal is still within that +/- 10% of the adaptive strategy.

You really want to screw things up? Use replaceable sample tubes. Their primary function is to cause aggravation and thoughts of suicide. Why? Because small changes in airflow can have large effects when you are 'sampling' and not measuring the total volume of air.
The MAF housing on the left in your example looks a lot like the one used on the 93 Cobra. Back in the day, I used to cut that center part out of the housing to allow it to flow more air. The end result was a slight leaning out of the air/fuel mixture and an increase in HP. This was only done in N/A applications and seemed to work quite well at the time. Considering that in 1996 there was not a whole lot of options out there, outside of Pro-M and C&L from what I recall.
 
Thanks again everyone. Just an update I did the 70mm MAF and found an eBay adapter for cheap that worked great. Nice inexpensive upgrade. It didn't make a huge difference but I can feel a slight difference which is to be expected and is money well spent

Thanks guys!


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Thanks again everyone. Just an update I did the 70mm MAF and found an eBay adapter for cheap that worked great. Nice inexpensive upgrade. It didn't make a huge difference but I can feel a slight difference which is to be expected and is money well spent

Thanks guys!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Cool! I did the same thing for my 91' gt. The maf screen had a hole, so I've decided to take the screen off the original maf (fits nicely right at the opening) and used rtv silicon so the screen can stay in place. Rule of thumb is that if an maf comes with a screen or some sort of a metallic honey-comb, leave it. It is there to smooth out the air flow so the sensor can read more accurately.
 
Anyone use the 75 mm pro flow setup?I got one on mine, seems like the idle is a little choppy since I installed it. Got it for $40 so I couldn't pass it up.

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Anyone use the 75 mm pro flow setup?I got one on mine, seems like the idle is a little choppy since I installed it. Got it for $40 so I couldn't pass it up.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

what # injectors do you run and what # injectors is the MAF calibrated for. Is it a draw or blow through and is it for CAI or not. Sometimes you need to clock the MAF to smooth out the idle.