1988 Fox Code Reader Not Working Out

Chuckleb0ne

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Jun 19, 2016
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Hey guys,

So I went into autozone and purchased a Innova Ford Code Reader. I go through all the instructions and found the connectors I needed under the hood. But when I plug everything in, no codes are read from the device. I looked all over the manual and couldn't get any solid connection to the cars computer to do a self test. How should I go about checking the codes now?

BTW, there is no check engine light with this car.

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What displays?

Have an assistant press the clutch pedal in (if stick) plug in the reader and hit the Test button. You should hear some solenoid a click under the hood, and then codes should start to display.

Do you have a positive connection with both plugs on the reader?


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What displays?

Have an assistant press the clutch pedal in (if stick) plug in the reader and hit the Test button. You should hear some solenoid a click under the hood, and then codes should start to display.

Do you have a positive connection with both plugs on the reader?


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I think the EEC-lV test plug connector is broken. Should the connector itself have only 3 wires coming into it? And then the small 1 pin connector that has a yellow/orange wire should be the single pin connector?

And yes I had the clutch down.

Just wondering if there was a way to bypass the connector somehow.


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I am gonna go ahead and try the jump cable method. Some of the pins in the EEC-lV connector have corrosion on them, but there is no way to clean them since they are really far in there.

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This may be a bit premature, but you may need it....


Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 86-90 model 5.0 Mustangs

Disconnect the battery positive terminal before making any resistance checks.
The voltage drop in the ground cable will cause incorrect resistance readings.


How it is supposed to work:
The black/white wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power and drivability problems. Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from anyplace on the engine harness with the battery pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.

What sometimes happens is that the test connector black/white wire gets jumpered to power which either burns up the wiring or burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer. That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 & 60.

The STI (Self Test Input ) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. Jumpering it to power can produce unknown results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test simply verifies that there are no breaks in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring :
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground (black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than 1.5 ohms.

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If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between the black/white wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins 40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that that and the computer’s internal ground has failed, and the computer needs to be repaired or replaced.

See http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/749974-computer-issue.html#post7490537 for Joel5.0’s fix for the computer internal signal ground.

If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer wiring connector: it is for an A9L, A9P computer.
eec-iv-computer-connector-for-5-0-mustang-gif.88243.gif


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Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Check out the diagram and notice all the places the black/white wire goes. Almost every sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.

88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine

See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.
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Sound like a connection issue between reader and test connector. Sometimes corrosion can damage the connector, or the prongs on the reader push in.

There are only 3 wires in the main plug, and then the single plug. If the condition is questionable, you may want to cut and solder on a new plug.

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