03 Mustang Gt Ac Problems

Ricardot99

New Member
Jul 4, 2016
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Bought the car with no ac . So I took it to a shop and they told me I had no pressure in the system so they recharged my system and to come back in 3 days to check for leaks. I thought I was okay so I didn't go back. But within about a week my ac stopped blowing cold the ac clutch would turn off and on within about 5 seconds. So I went to a third party to check it out . The guy told me my freon levels were good but that I had some blockage . So I guess he fixed that and it was good for about 2 weeks but now it's shot again . The same thing is going on with the clutch turning of and on within about 3 seconds. I've heard people talk about the Ccrm ? When I got the car it had some damage to the fender where the Ccrm is located could that be part of the problem ? Or maybe a bad compressor ? Need help I need ac for the 100 degree + weather here !!
 
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To correctly diag an A/C problem, you're going to need to take it to a shop. There's just not a whole lot a shadetree can do.

If you really want to try and figure it out for yourself, you'll need:

1. A set of gauges (Harbor Freight and Parts store gauges universally suck, just buy what's cheaper in your area), and by set, I do not mean the bull**** low-side gauge that comes with some cans of R134a. You need to see what both the low and the high side are doing.

2. You'll need some R134a with UV dye (but no stop leak, if you put ANY kind of stop leak in your system, you're guaranteeing future trouble, and some shops will check for that first and refuse to work on the system after finding it.)

3. You'll need to find a shop that's willing to evac the system for you when you find the problem so you can safely, legally, and in an environmentally friendly way disassemble the system and replace the bad components, and then you'll need that shop or another to draw a vacuum on it after you're done making the repair(s) but before putting any R134a back in it so that you don't have any air contamination in the system.

4. A good understanding of how A/C systems work. (I should've put that first, but oh well.)

5. Some PAG oil in the correct viscosity or Esther oil and R134a.

If you don't have/aren't willing to get those five things lined up, take it to a professional. You can hurt yourself messing around with A/C, and you can hurt the A/C system further if you don't know what the hell you're doing.

I work on A/C systems in cars (as well as just about everything else in cars) for a living. I don't know a single technician that likes doing A/C work. Not a single one. We all like the paycheck from it, because if it's not a warranty job it pays decent, but tracking leaks on an A/C system, even with UV dye and/or a sniffer is a pain in the ass, and if the problem isn't a leak, we've got to try to coax the system into working long enough to see what the gauges do, listen for noises, etc. It's never really fun, because pretty much nothing but the compressor, orifice tube, and certain hoses are easy to get to on most cars.
 
Another issue.....do not bounce from one shop to another. Staying with one place to get the repairs saves you time spent on tracking the same issue by each shop. Then, when you tell them what the other said, they tend not to believe it. Plus, if the first shop failed to fix the repair, you can return to them and ask why it failed when they told you it was good.

I feel to many people knock down a shop over one failed repair. If you do not go back, they never know it failed again plus he may have had other ideas as to another repair.

I do agree that if the broken issue is not easy to spot under the hood, you need the tools.

The compressor is most likely cycling on and off due to low freon as it is designed to do as a safety.
 
I have a 2000 Mustang GT 4.6
I've bought this car from my grandfather and he had paid his mechanic to fix the AC... Well he tested every thing and found out it was a bad PCM... So he bought one from junk yard and i had Ford flash it and it did not fix the AC... they even changed the CCRM and the selector has been replaced
There is not Codes of any sort...
I checked that the switches they did not read any volts with engine running and ac on high cool fun on high....
I have checked the wire some of them looked as if someone cut them just to test them bare wire show...
I checked a fuse last night in the fuse box under dash and the AC clutch fuse 23 fuse size 15 was blown...
But still clutch wont engage..
I have checked the switches once more and they had a 12 volt reading So that fuse i changed made them to have a 12 volt reading
I have had my grandfathers mechanic check the compressor and wired it some way and it engaged and it is a new compressor...
The fan kick rite on high a little after i engage the AC to AC Max...
Also when i unplug the 2 switches one at a time and plug them back in the motor bogs in a small sound and the fan engages... Man i need Help i don't know much on how check many thing but i can give any info to my mechanic because i cant just set him free and end up costing me an arm and a leg i already have 250 in getting the PCM flashed...