Power Locks And Key Cylinder Question

[stpete]

On my car the power locks work well. The passenger door cylinder works well and the rear hatch cylinder works well. The driver door unlock, not so much. I can unlock it if I lock it with the key, but not if I lock it with the power locks. Even then it's higher effort than it should be. I have lubed the cylinders, which got the passenger and hatch working well. So now the question is what do I replace. Is it the cylinder that is jacked and I need to replace the locks or is the power lock actuator keeping the cylinder from being able to push the lock open?
Further info: The drivers door hinges are shot also. The door is kind of clunky to open with the latch. I have the parts and will replace the hinge bushings when I can get some help.

 

[Boosted92LX]

If you can lock/ unlock with the key, sounds like actuator.

 

[jrichker]

Follow this link to fix your door lock actuator problems

You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://get.adobe.com/reader/

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/attachments/door-lock-actuator-fix-pdf.88290/

Stuck with door lock actuators that don't work and don't want to pay the $50+ for a new one? Tried the junkyard ones and found that they last six months and freeze up?

A new actuator for less than $8. Fix one side for $20, do both sides for only $28. I don't sell parts, I don’t make any money off of the upgrade, I just tell you how to do it cheaply and easily.

By the way, I am still using the same $4 actuators I bought in 2002 and this is the second Mustang I have installed them in! Beat that with your fancy replacements!

 

[stpete]

If you can lock/ unlock with the key, sounds like actuator.

I can lock/unlock with the key unless I lock the door with the actuator. Even locking/unlocking with the key doesn't feel as solid as it does on the other side. That concerns me a little. The answer might be that I need both.

Can you get a single lock cylinder with a key that matches the others?

 

[Davedacarpainter]

I can lock/unlock with the key unless I lock the door with the actuator. Even locking/unlocking with the key doesn't feel as solid as it does on the other side. That concerns me a little. The answer might be that I need both.

Can you get a single lock cylinder with a key that matches the others?

No, but it's no big deal getting them keyed.

You know, what do I know as a freakin' painter, BUT, I think the actuator needs to be replaced. It's a pretty simple system. The fix isn't steep either.

 

[Rjaaaaaa]

On my car the power locks work well. The passenger door cylinder works well and the rear hatch cylinder works well. The driver door unlock, not so much. I can unlock it if I lock it with the key, but not if I lock it with the power locks. Even then it's higher effort than it should be. I have lubed the cylinders, which got the passenger and hatch working well. So now the question is what do I replace. Is it the cylinder that is jacked and I need to replace the locks or is the power lock actuator keeping the cylinder from being able to push the lock open?
Further info: The drivers door hinges are shot also. The door is kind of clunky to open with the latch. I have the parts and will replace the hinge bushings when I can get some help.

I'm new to the foxbody thing but I have some of the same issues and I took a peek inside the door and it has a lot of flimsy long rods inside that work great when new but as time goes on they need some attention and lube. If the electric actuator is working then it probably needs some lub inside, there is a plastic connector that connects the key cylinder to the door latch and this was my problem they were either broken or worn so bad they twisted instead of pushing down like they were supposed to. You can gain access the linkage and cylinder by pulling the door trim without to much trouble.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

A previous owner lithium spray grease coated the whole lock and latching mechanism and all moving parts on the passenger side. I cleaned and lubed them lightly, but it still was stubborn to turn with the key. Until the power lock solenoid pulled out of the bracket. Then the key worked fine. LMR provided the new passenger solenoid and problem solved.

 

[89oem]

If you unhook the actuator arm from the lock mechanism and lube the linkage and turn the key a few times it'll work fine manually. The actuator is just worn out, you will eventually not be able to lock it and could break your key.... There are some weak poor replacement parts so google search it.... LMR has been known for weak replacements in the past.....jrichkers solution is also a viable path....

 

[stpete]

Thanks guys, new actuator it is.

 

[stpete]

New actuator did the job.

Also replaced a bunch of other stuff while I was in there.

 

[RaggedGT]

Follow this link to fix your door lock actuator problems

You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://get.adobe.com/reader/

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/attachments/door-lock-actuator-fix-pdf.88290/

Stuck with door lock actuators that don't work and don't want to pay the $50+ for a new one? Tried the junkyard ones and found that they last six months and freeze up?

A new actuator for less than $8. Fix one side for $20, do both sides for only $28. I don't sell parts, I don’t make any money off of the upgrade, I just tell you how to do it cheaply and easily.

By the way, I am still using the same $4 actuators I bought in 2002 and this is the second Mustang I have installed them in! Beat that with your fancy replacements!

One of these days if I ever actually talk to Mr.Richker ,I'm gonna ask him to look at the door lock actuator schematics for a ls430- $300 bucks for a replacement lol
OP glad you got your lock fixed,and the other stuff-good thinking taking care of other stuff while you where there.