- Dec 19, 2010
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Sn95 5.0 Engine Rebuild
- Thread starter Brian Berthold
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5k is a fairly steep price for what your motor sounds like it needs. If it is just going to be reringed,crank+rods resized w/new bearings,etc that's a very steep price. We're talking about a few hundred in machine work and another few hundred in parts. Add in a new cam,lifters,timing chain,some head "massaging" you're really talking about 1500$. So his labor is going to cost 3+k? Ouch
This made my head hurtIf it is already costing 5K, walk away. you can buy a crate engine for that price and then some.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3060ct/overview/make/ford
Put the intake and accessories on and your done.
I think the point most are missing here is the shop is not only removing the engine for you, but rebuilding, and reinstalling the engine.......which times that by a shop rate and parts......makes sense sort of.
Most people forget LMR sells GT40Ps for 600 dollars
If you do not procure the parts yourself, a shop will charge out the a$$
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If it is already costing 5K, walk away. you can buy a crate engine for that price and then some.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3060ct/overview/make/ford
Put the intake and accessories on and your done.
I think the point most are missing here is the shop is not only removing the engine for you, but rebuilding, and reinstalling the engine.......which times that by a shop rate and parts......makes sense sort of.
Most people forget LMR sells GT40Ps for 600 dollars
If you do not procure the parts yourself, a shop will charge out the a$$
Yup. That's the truth. A lot of guys here are the DIY type, so when they see $5K for what they could do in a few weekends, it's sure to get people worked up.
I don't really think the OP needs to worry about originality at this point. The motor is a rebuild, .010" over. It really doesn't matter. Slap some GT40 heads on it, an exploder intake and a aftermarket cam and have fun with it. All those parts can be removed if SN95 5.0's ever become collectable. Unfortunately, right now, they aren't. It's the 87-93 cars that are.
Unfortunately, adding different parts at this point might add cost to your total bill...which is pretty excessive at this point. You probably could have sold your car for parts, added $1K to your rebuild bill, and bought a modded Sn95 5.0 with the mods already installed.
might as well just do the stock rebuild save up for a 2013 5.0 engine and dump that in there ... BTW will the new 5.0 even fit in a SN95??
Yup. A lot of guys are doing this swap. Most use F150 5.0's as they are a lot easier to get a hold of.
However, you'll need a lot of supporting mods as well as the motor. new Kmember, engine harness, computer, convert brake system to hydroboost. Not a cheap swap if you are DIYing it, even more expensive if you have to sub it out to someone to do it for you.
A 2013 "coyote" 5.0 swap with supporting parts etc, 15K easy.
You should drop by the shop and ask him to show and educate you, if he's been doing it this long he shouldnt mind and you could play back what you learn with folks here for validation and clarification like youve been doing,
then you can figure out where to go from there ....
You should drop by the shop and ask him to show and educate you, if he's been doing it this long he shouldnt mind and you could play back what you learn with folks here for validation and clarification like youve been doing,
then you can figure out where to go from there ....
The guys are right, this is a good learning experience all around.
You have to admit, you already know more and must be a little bit less intimidated by your cars mechanics.
@89oem is right, if this guy has been in business this long, he really shouldn't mind you being inquisitive about your car.
It's not voodoo, it just takes a little studying and doing.
You have to admit, you already know more and must be a little bit less intimidated by your cars mechanics.
@89oem is right, if this guy has been in business this long, he really shouldn't mind you being inquisitive about your car.
It's not voodoo, it just takes a little studying and doing.
HATE IT HATE IT HATE IT im gana burn this POS to the ground ... got car today drive it the 50 miles home .. have to drive it the 50 miles back cuz something isnt right!
this is list on what he replaced ... the crank isnt on there but it was replaced
this is list on what he replaced ... the crank isnt on there but it was replaced
Why on earth would have had to replace the crank? All it would have needed was the journals polished.
and this was why the rebuild was so much just over 4K
what i dont get is i would call some of this stuff part of the engine rebuild ... like the harmonic and the coolant and spark plugs
what i dont get is i would call some of this stuff part of the engine rebuild ... like the harmonic and the coolant and spark plugs
it was warped or bent or whatever .. its what shot the engine to
.. well it was the harmonic balancer really the damaged the crank
Those are actually pretty fair prices from a shop and none of those items are in a rebuild kit. It's an itemized break down of everything purchased and he laid hands on. Those extraneous items never make it into the Summit or LMR ads offering stroker or rebuild kits, but damn if you can't get the engine back together without them.and this was why the rebuild was so much just over 4K
what i dont get is i would call some of this stuff part of the engine rebuild ... like the harmonic and the coolant and spark plugs
What's puzzling me is why you needed a new starter? Was that bad to begin with?
Ahhh.. that will do it. What's the car doing that you need to take it back? You're coming off a fresh rebuild, keep in mind there is a period of time for things to break and settle in.
the starter was covered in oil as the rear main sall was bad
whats it doing ... to me it has no power
at lights when i stopped for more then say 25 seconds
the car shakes like its missing .. the RPMs are going from 500 to 1500 with the shake
the RPM dont fallow the engine slowing down - it sticks at 1500 and then drops down once stopped
and the engine wont push it into passing gear
all these thing it did not go even with a messed up engine
im really bummed out .. and pissed and well i literary want to just take the car to the crusher ... i dont think i have ever been this pissed and bummed in my life
Pull codes. In all likelihood there is a bad connection somewhere or perhaps a vacuum leak. If it was stumbling that badly he shouldn't have released the car back to you.
Take video of the car not performing. Your mechanic needs to see that to correct the issue.
Take video of the car not performing. Your mechanic needs to see that to correct the issue.
it wasnt when i picked it up ... it took about 40 miles about 45 minutes for it to start doing it
i dont know anyone that can pull codes everyone says that can only read OBD2 .. and mine is a OBD1 ... but there is a ford deal across the street from this guy
