Progress Thread Nasty Ninety Notch
- Thread starter joetrainer31
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I hope it stays that way! If it does I'm welding the hood shut...or maybe not cause it's fiberglass, but you get the idea.That's a happy ending I can get behind
- Dec 19, 2010
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+1
I don't know what we'd do without @jrichker... other than stay frustrated with electical gremlins.
We all have different backgrounds and experiences, and when we work together, we are able solve all sorts of difficult questions and problems.
See I Corth 12:14-26...
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Update: 41 Miles. (@jrichker)
41 miles down and no check engine. Thus, I decided to do a KOER test. Per instructions I set the timing to 10BTDC and made sure the engine was at operating temp. I got two codes that I kind of expected. They are:
94 (R)
44 (R)
My TAB & TAD solenoids are new, they have the vac tubes going to the smog pump assy, but the pump isn't actually being used. The pump bearings are shot and a new one is $225-$250 so I just bypassed it for now with a shorter belt (i.e., Gates K060849 for stock pullies, 3G alt, & no smog pump), and no, the heads are not leaking any compression out of the back.
So, correct me if I'm wrong, but these are the codes I should see if my smog pump is bypassed.
41 miles down and no check engine. Thus, I decided to do a KOER test. Per instructions I set the timing to 10BTDC and made sure the engine was at operating temp. I got two codes that I kind of expected. They are:
94 (R)
44 (R)
My TAB & TAD solenoids are new, they have the vac tubes going to the smog pump assy, but the pump isn't actually being used. The pump bearings are shot and a new one is $225-$250 so I just bypassed it for now with a shorter belt (i.e., Gates K060849 for stock pullies, 3G alt, & no smog pump), and no, the heads are not leaking any compression out of the back.
So, correct me if I'm wrong, but these are the codes I should see if my smog pump is bypassed.
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LiquidStangs
Well-Known Member
Those codes correspond to the ones I'm seeing on my car, which has known smog issues (one line, at least, is disconnected from the cat).
Yea, again, my smog pump is bypassed right now due to seized bearings. I kind of expected those codes. However, I'm putting them out there in case anyone has a different idea.
Usually with those codes the advise is to check the crossover tube and clean if necessary, check voltage of TAB/TAD, and check vac lines. My TAB, TAD, and EGR Solenoid are all new as well as all their vac lines. They are all connected to the appropriate locations on the smog pump assy, it's just that the pump itself is not in use.
LiquidStangs
Well-Known Member
No different idea here, at least. I'd probably have to actually know something to have different ideas. 
But having read your previous adventures, I figured a little positive reinforcement wasn't out of line.
But having read your previous adventures, I figured a little positive reinforcement wasn't out of line.
I'm SO tired of "adventures." Although, I do hope they have kept you entertained.No different idea here, at least. I'd probably have to actually know something to have different ideas.
Update: FYI
For what it's worth and hopefully this will help someone; when I test drove my car a little while ago w/o converters it lost bottom end torque according to the butt dyno. I realize that the butt dyno is not as accurate as a real dyno, but that doesn't mean it's completely unuseful. Besides the legality of converter removal, there is a drop in streetable power.
I found this drop in torque interesting as my combo was not stock. My relevant parts are:
- 308cid
- X307 heads
- Explorer manifold w/ported lower.
- stock cam
- 1.72 rocker arms
- 94/95 Mustang GT MAF
- Summit 70mm TB (50 state legal)
- Short headers (uneven)
- cat back Magnaflow kit
For what it's worth and hopefully this will help someone; when I test drove my car a little while ago w/o converters it lost bottom end torque according to the butt dyno. I realize that the butt dyno is not as accurate as a real dyno, but that doesn't mean it's completely unuseful. Besides the legality of converter removal, there is a drop in streetable power.
I found this drop in torque interesting as my combo was not stock. My relevant parts are:
- 308cid
- X307 heads
- Explorer manifold w/ported lower.
- stock cam
- 1.72 rocker arms
- 94/95 Mustang GT MAF
- Summit 70mm TB (50 state legal)
- Short headers (uneven)
- cat back Magnaflow kit
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Update: 85 miles
Ok, 85 miles down and no problems. While in stop & go traffic as well as freeway driving, I was able to observe a couple of things.
1) The driveability of a stock cam should not be undervalued. I have a 355 rear, was in 1st gear, and putting along at 900 RPMs w/o any kind of bucking or funny stuff. It was smooth as butter.
2) At 60-65 mph the car's temp dropped to about 160-150. This is the coolest running mustang I've ever owned. If curious, I'm running a stock 192 Motorcraft T-stat w/a small hole drilled at the 12 o'clock position, stock pulleys, stock water pump, stock hoses, an SVE 3 core radiator, 50/50 antifreeze mix, and X307 aluminum heads. I'm thinking the radiator/ heads combo has a lot to do with those temps at that speed range.
Stay tuned...
Ok, 85 miles down and no problems. While in stop & go traffic as well as freeway driving, I was able to observe a couple of things.
1) The driveability of a stock cam should not be undervalued. I have a 355 rear, was in 1st gear, and putting along at 900 RPMs w/o any kind of bucking or funny stuff. It was smooth as butter.
2) At 60-65 mph the car's temp dropped to about 160-150. This is the coolest running mustang I've ever owned. If curious, I'm running a stock 192 Motorcraft T-stat w/a small hole drilled at the 12 o'clock position, stock pulleys, stock water pump, stock hoses, an SVE 3 core radiator, 50/50 antifreeze mix, and X307 aluminum heads. I'm thinking the radiator/ heads combo has a lot to do with those temps at that speed range.
Stay tuned...
Update: 144 miles.
After 144 miles of highway, city, and stop/go traffic everything seems fine, thank the Lord.
I hate to touch anything under the hood. Yet, I'm wondering if I ought to cap off the smog pump vac lines at the TAB/TAD solenoids since the pump is bypassed. There doesn't seem to be an issue right now, but I'm just concerned whether or not leaving the vac lines affixed to the pump assy could cause a vac leak since the pump is not in use. Any thoughts?
Stay Tuned...
After 144 miles of highway, city, and stop/go traffic everything seems fine, thank the Lord.
I hate to touch anything under the hood. Yet, I'm wondering if I ought to cap off the smog pump vac lines at the TAB/TAD solenoids since the pump is bypassed. There doesn't seem to be an issue right now, but I'm just concerned whether or not leaving the vac lines affixed to the pump assy could cause a vac leak since the pump is not in use. Any thoughts?
Stay Tuned...
Update: 200 miles
So far now CEL, thank the Lord.
I have learned that if your smog pump is bypassed, yet all other hoses, etc are still hooked up, you need to cap off the black and white vac tubes for the car to run right. Those two tubes run from the TAB/TAD solenoids to the smog pump assy. Before I capped those tubes off I noticed that the car just didn't seem quite right. It seemed a smidge down on power, but there was something else I couldn't put my finger on. I went out on a limb and capped off those two tubes this morning and the car ran better.
Lastly, I noticed that my brand new water pump is [still] leaking, in the same spot. I'm taking it back to the shop I used to manage. This will be the fourth time for the same concern. When I was there it was a struggle for me to keep quality control levels up. It seems like after I left, and the next guy came in, that nobody cares anymore. I'm only going back because I have warranty and because of my health (hard to do job myself while sick). Otherwise, I recommend that [nobody] go to the shop for any reason, not even an oil change.
So far now CEL, thank the Lord.
I have learned that if your smog pump is bypassed, yet all other hoses, etc are still hooked up, you need to cap off the black and white vac tubes for the car to run right. Those two tubes run from the TAB/TAD solenoids to the smog pump assy. Before I capped those tubes off I noticed that the car just didn't seem quite right. It seemed a smidge down on power, but there was something else I couldn't put my finger on. I went out on a limb and capped off those two tubes this morning and the car ran better.
Lastly, I noticed that my brand new water pump is [still] leaking, in the same spot. I'm taking it back to the shop I used to manage. This will be the fourth time for the same concern. When I was there it was a struggle for me to keep quality control levels up. It seems like after I left, and the next guy came in, that nobody cares anymore. I'm only going back because I have warranty and because of my health (hard to do job myself while sick). Otherwise, I recommend that [nobody] go to the shop for any reason, not even an oil change.
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Update: The Other Car
While it's not a Mustang it is a Ford and the wifey's car. I was finally able to get it all cleaned up.
While it's not a Mustang it is a Ford and the wifey's car. I was finally able to get it all cleaned up.
Update: 468 miles
Took the car on several smaller test drives. Then, two longer drives of about 100 miles each. Everything seems to be working fine, thank the Lord. It also seems that a minor air pocket was expelled through the overflow tank. I noticed that the overflow tank level was a bit low after the longer test drive. The level was at the "cold" mark after after the first long test drive. So, I filled it to the appropriate "hot" mark. The car runs a bit cooler now. I still plan on driving it 3,000 miles for our planned move later this year.
Stay tuned...
Took the car on several smaller test drives. Then, two longer drives of about 100 miles each. Everything seems to be working fine, thank the Lord. It also seems that a minor air pocket was expelled through the overflow tank. I noticed that the overflow tank level was a bit low after the longer test drive. The level was at the "cold" mark after after the first long test drive. So, I filled it to the appropriate "hot" mark. The car runs a bit cooler now. I still plan on driving it 3,000 miles for our planned move later this year.
Stay tuned...
Update: 520 miles
Noticed a slight weeping on the water pump that was "fixed" three times at the shop I used to manage. It's a shame to see that no one there cares anymore. Anyhow, since I'm too ill to work on the car right now I took it to a shop my friend has been going to for 10 years.
I showed the guy the weeping. He wants to start from scratch with a Motorcraft/Motorsport water pump. I cannot disagree with that. Also, I noticed a wobbling sound when in neutral with my foot off the clutch. If I pressed the clutch in the sound would go away. I suspected a defective or poorly installed throwout bearing and the tech confirmed that was the problem. They will let me know which one of those options once they get into the car.
Next, I was suspicious that the old shop failed to R&R the rear brake cylinders when they replaced [everything] else on the rear drums. The tech confirmed the old ones were still there, were rusty, and were leaking, but had not yet contaminated the rear shoes. Basically, the complete rear brake set-up, including lines, were replaced, but not the brake cylinders??? Wow.
Lastly, when the tech was inspecting the rear brake cylinders he noticed that the rear axle seals were leaking! I only have about 500 miles on the complete rear end rebuild! I talked to the rear end shop and the owner will handle that fix. While he is in there I am thinking about going to a 327 gear in place of my 355 gear. My reasons for this are a 3,000 mile drive coming up, less shifting when in traffic, more usable 1st gear, less droning at highway speeds due to lower RPMs.
To sum up:
- water pump leaking for 4th time.
- throwout bearing defective or installed w/o grease.
- rear brake cylinders not R&Rd so leaking.
- possible gear swap from 355 to 327.
Thoughts?
Noticed a slight weeping on the water pump that was "fixed" three times at the shop I used to manage. It's a shame to see that no one there cares anymore. Anyhow, since I'm too ill to work on the car right now I took it to a shop my friend has been going to for 10 years.
I showed the guy the weeping. He wants to start from scratch with a Motorcraft/Motorsport water pump. I cannot disagree with that. Also, I noticed a wobbling sound when in neutral with my foot off the clutch. If I pressed the clutch in the sound would go away. I suspected a defective or poorly installed throwout bearing and the tech confirmed that was the problem. They will let me know which one of those options once they get into the car.
Next, I was suspicious that the old shop failed to R&R the rear brake cylinders when they replaced [everything] else on the rear drums. The tech confirmed the old ones were still there, were rusty, and were leaking, but had not yet contaminated the rear shoes. Basically, the complete rear brake set-up, including lines, were replaced, but not the brake cylinders??? Wow.
Lastly, when the tech was inspecting the rear brake cylinders he noticed that the rear axle seals were leaking! I only have about 500 miles on the complete rear end rebuild! I talked to the rear end shop and the owner will handle that fix. While he is in there I am thinking about going to a 327 gear in place of my 355 gear. My reasons for this are a 3,000 mile drive coming up, less shifting when in traffic, more usable 1st gear, less droning at highway speeds due to lower RPMs.
To sum up:
- water pump leaking for 4th time.
- throwout bearing defective or installed w/o grease.
- rear brake cylinders not R&Rd so leaking.
- possible gear swap from 355 to 327.
Thoughts?
skyline247
Advanced Member
Man, you don't seem to catch a break sometimes. Starting from a new motorcraft water pump seems like a good idea. The rear brake cylinder issue is just a bad miss by the shop that worked on it and the TOB is a toss up until you can take a look at it. It sounds like a gear swap will be worth it to you. I wouldn't do it because of the drone alone but it looks like you have other considerations. I would just double check how much your rpms will change with the swap to make sure it's a significant enough change for you.
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