Control Arm Bushings

77Stanger

New Member
Mar 3, 2015
8
0
1
I am trying to replace the bushings in the upper control arms on my 1977 mustang ii 2.3l. I did take the adjusting bolt out of the arm and swing it 180 degrees to try and get better access at taking them out, still didn't really work. Now I am trying to take out the entire arm the only problem is removing the ball joint from the hub. There is not much room to bang on that stud and i just won't budge. I did try to hit the arm up a little but I don't want to bend it. If there's some kind of trick taking these out without destroying it please let me know. the ball joints are still good so I want to reuse them and especially because they are riveted in. These have been on for forty years and never been touched, the car is all original with 30k miles.

Thanks
 
  • Sponsors (?)


OK well either way I still have to remove the ball joint from the hub assembly, that is my real issue. There's really not much room there to hit it out hard enough. How did you do that?
 
Amazon product ASIN B003YVWHOEView: https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472183143&sr=8-2&keywords=ball+joint+remover


There's what I use at the shop. Used it on a 2007 Camry tie-rod end and lower ball joint today. Just need a 1" socket and a ratchet to use with it. Works every time without wearing you the hell out like swinging a hammer all day does. I haven't used it on my II yet, but I've used it on several Dodge Durangos, a few Hyundais, the Toyota today, and a few other cars.
 
Yeah you need a separator tool like the above, or a pickle-fork (which requires the before-mentioned hammer swinging and is guaranteed to destroy the boot but is available in most auto parts stores whereas the nicer tool I haven't found locally -- I doubt a 40 year old boot is in very good shape, mine were dry-rotted even though the joints were good). Definitely don't try to bang or pry on the arm itself, you'll damage it and it won't work. Hitting the threaded part of the joint will destroy it as well. Sometimes a few sharp hammer blows to the spindle (the cast iron part, on the side, where the ball-joint goes through) will cause the joint to pop loose - works on tie-rods too.

Oh, and be sure you have a jack under the lower control arm and that the shock is still in place. Otherwise you might be catching a spindle upside the head when it does come loose.